Rear Ballast Weight DIY Build

[CliffordK]

The loop on top is my favorite "extra" that I've seen. Even if I never use it, I like the idea that I can pick it up with my loader with a chain and move it anywhere I want without having to disconnect what's already on the back of my tractor.

You guys are talking about bigger tractors than I'm using.

It would be mighty easy to build a ballast block that my Ford wouldn't be able to safely move without added ballast. Thus, self defeating.

Still, the hook would be easy enough to add.

 

[LD1]

The loop on top is my favorite "extra" that I've seen. Even if I never use it, I like the idea that I can pick it up with my loader with a chain and move it anywhere I want without having to disconnect what's already on the back of my tractor.

Yea, Im thinking with a ton of weight....you aint moving it with the loader anyway. (of course you could have another implement on the back or use the Ford backhoe)

But any "ballast/counterweight" heavy enough to be sufficient on the rear, is gonna be too heavy to lift with the front WITHOUT that ballast on the rear.

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a full sized backhoe that can easily pick up a ton. I think it's rated for something over 4,000 pounds. I'd have to look what my other two loaders are rated for. 4707 Massey Ferguson and 5065 John Deere.

If I move it, it would probably just be because I'm doing something in that area that I didn't plan on doing. Odds are very good that once I take it off for mowing season, it will stay there until I take off the batwing.

 

[Helogabals]

On Yanmar sa424 I use this

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It's like 300 kg. I mean, for that size of tractor that's enough. Operating FEL can't raise rear end of tractor
Big benefit is compact size of counterweight. Those are not pipes but solid bars

 

[EddieWalker]

It's been a few months and I finally got started on building my rear ballast last week.

After buying the 3 point hitch from Amazon for $52, I discovered that it wasn't wide enough for my lift arms.

Amazon.com

I cut it and welded on some angle iron to make it 8 inches wider. I measured how low my lift arms go on my tractor, and decided to make the Cat 2 pins be 18 inches from the ground.

I used scrap metal that I had in my storage container to create an internal frame. My thinking was to give the concrete something to form around so it was well supported. Might not of needed it, but it makes me feel better knowing it's there.

Total weight for the metal frame is 104 pounds.

 

[EddieWalker]

Yesterday morning I built a wood frame for the concrete. I used a single sheet of 3/4 plywood and made it 24 inches tall, 24 inches deep and 33 inches wide.

I used an online concrete calculator to figure out how many 60 pound sacks I needed, and started buying them ten at a time. For the calculator, went with 24x24x36 to be safe, and it said that I needed 27 sacks. I bought 30, and ended up using 25.

Total weight of concrete is 1,500 pounds, and with the 104 pounds of metal, it's just over 1,600 pounds.

I could probably take off the forms today, but I'm in no rush and I'll wait until the end of the week to do that. My goal is to use it next Saturday.

 

[sixdogs]

Good looking design and build.

 

[CADplans]

Eddie, HOW big is the tractor that it is going on??

your weight equals my weight box, and my wheel weights,,,
(1000lb weight box,, six wheel weights at a little over 100 pounds each)
I use that weight on a 4052R ,, and that is a nice combination,,
(I also have fluid filled rear tires)

I mowed a couple acres for my daughter yesterday, weight box off, PRD7200 rear mower on,
That combo made for a REAL nice ride,

The tractor has a suspension swivel seat,, that helps also,,

 

[EddieWalker]

It’s a 70 HP Massey Ferguson. I think it weighs just under 10,000 pounds. When I have a full front bucket, the rear is super light.

 

[EddieWalker]

I hooked up the rear ballast today, and took it for a spin.

Right away, just driving down my driveway, I noticed a huge improvement in the ride. It was less bouncy and more comfortable.

I went to a dirt pile that had been there for awhile. I've gotten dozens of bucket loads of dirt from there, but never this easily. It just seemed like I had unlimited power. Zero rear wheel spin, and the tractor just gripped the ground like nothing could stop it!!!!

With a full load of dirt in the loader bucket, I drove to where I had take out some trees yesterday, and started to fill the holes from the root balls. It was angling downhill, and this is where I've had all my issues. A full loader bucket going downhill would lift my rear tires off the ground.

I was glued to the ground. It was more stable, more solid, more comfortable then I ever thought possible. The rear ballast has made my tractor more fun to use, and more powerful, if that's possible. It just goes and goes. There isn't any bounce at all, and I never felt like it was tippy, or scary. I was pointing down hill, and I would even get on weird side angles without any issues.

I'm impressed!!!