Rear Blade Rear Blade keeps breaking

   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #21  
I have a standard woods 72" on my 45, I haven't used it much since I got my BB. It is starting to change color from woods orange to a darker orange. It never seemed heavy duty to me, although my dealer swore it was heavier than a KK. I don't think woods makes as heavy duty a RB as landpride does, but their gill looks terrific. I've seen a nice gill 8' go at auction at mcgrews down by York PA rather cheaply (600-800). rear blades at auctions seem to go rather cheap, but box blades seem to have increased in price in the auctions that I have been at.

I've been seeing alot of rear blades on craigslist lately, is there something up with rear blades? too many on the market?
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #22  
I don't think woods makes as heavy duty a RB as landpride does, but their gill looks terrific.

You are right, Woods only rates their heavy duty blade (RB1010) for 150 hp tractors and it only weights 1480 pounds whereas Landpride rates their biggest to 180 hp and it weighs 1700+ pounds.

I have a medium duty Woods and it's been just fine on a 50 hp tractor.

Ken
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #23  
I've been looking around town and found a land pride for 949 and saw on the web a KK for about the same. Are these not Heavy Duty? I'd like to make sure before I spend that much. :confused:

Also, if you look at the one add, its a 2006 model so its been sitting out for a while.

Width(Blade) 84" Weight(Approximate) 484 lbs. Angle(Position)
9 Forward up to 60 degrees right or left
5 Reverse up to 60 degrees right or left Height(Blade) 17 1/
Thickness Cutting Edges1/2 x 6 Heat treated Replaceable & Reversible (Double bevel)
Tilt Range5 Positions up to 30 degrees right or left

If you can get the Land Pride for the same price as a KK, I would definitely go with the LP. An example of differences, look at the moldboard. The KK is bent with a series of bends, the LP is rolled and is much smoother. What series of blade is the Land Pride? For your tractor I would get an RB3584. This blade has angle, tilt and offset, and is built tough enough to take what ever your size tractor can do.

Check out Land Pride here. Land Pride Rear Blades & Trip Edge Blades
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #24  
I have a Frontier RB2196H which is an 8 ft blade that I run on my 5103 JD and it works really well. Its has the hydraulic angle . It weighs just a touch under 500 lbs. I would have liked to have the tilt and offset angle but I wasnt gonna pay $3200 for a rear blade. I gave $1400 for the 2196H....Bull
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #25  
I have a Frontier RB2196H which is an 8 ft blade that I run on my 5103 JD and it works really well. Its has the hydraulic angle . It weighs just a touch under 500 lbs. I would have liked to have the tilt and offset angle but I wasnt gonna pay $3200 for a rear blade. I gave $1400 for the 2196H....Bull

Yeah, too bad the neatest toys always cost so much :mad:

Ken
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #26  
Ken

You are right about that. Seems like when I go into JD it cost me out the wazu . They are really good about there warranty stuff though thats why I chose them.
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #27  
Ken

You are right about that. Seems like when I go into JD it cost me out the wazu . They are really good about there warranty stuff though thats why I chose them.

I don't think I've ever had a warranty issue with any attachments. Yeah, when I started out and was buying cheap stuff, some of it broke, but I never thought about it as a warranty issue (if there was a warranty). Now that I have a better idea what I'm doing and I buy better quality stuff, it holds up. (crossing fingers that this doesn't jinx things! :eek: )

One thing I learned in the first few years: don't buy attachments for a 45 hp tractor at TSC or some such store. They are made for smaller tractors. We all learn from our experiences, at least before we had resources like we have here.

Ken
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #28  
i say bend it back, weld on some addtional gussets and just keep useing it.

youll eventually build it strong enough to hold up. YOu can put a lot of time and welding rod into it for $900
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #29  
i say bend it back, weld on some addtional gussets and just keep useing it.

youll eventually build it strong enough to hold up. YOu can put a lot of time and welding rod into it for $900


Old time taught me that the fastest way to move a big rock is "slowly". He was right and I learned the lesson.......... well, I hope.

I broke the right lower link in half on my 3710 using a scraper blade to remove snow in on pavement. The blade is offset so that made for more leverage, and the granet curb did not help.
 
   / Rear Blade keeps breaking #30  
I don't think I've ever had a warranty issue with any attachments. Yeah, when I started out and was buying cheap stuff, some of it broke, but I never thought about it as a warranty issue (if there was a warranty). Now that I have a better idea what I'm doing and I buy better quality stuff, it holds up. (crossing fingers that this doesn't jinx things! :eek: )

One thing I learned in the first few years: don't buy attachments for a 45 hp tractor at TSC or some such store. They are made for smaller tractors. We all learn from our experiences, at least before we had resources like we have here.

Ken

I try to buy quality implements at good prices. My experience is if its a well made piece you don't need warranty (which is usually more hassel then its worth) because it won't break. Even if they give you a new cheap blade, you still have nothing, it will break again.

It alway amazes me how cheap some of the low end tractor stuff can be.
But after you buy it you have nothing but a never ending repair problem. Sure somethings you can reinforce but others you can't. If your always need to fix it instead of being out there using it or worse yet, hired fixed. Your better off buying somethng 2x or 3x the money in the 1st place and having it last.

Looking at another used item similar to what your considering to buy new can often reveal if it has any short comings. Scratch the standard or lite duty model off your list b4 you start. The cheap way out always cost way more in the end. If you need cheap, think used, but good quality and be prepared to pay more then you could for a new (cheap) one.

Ken also
 
 

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