Rear blade project.

   / Rear blade project. #11  
Wow, you work fast! 1 min from a mock up to full paint.

Nice job. I would have wanted the back bar to go full length, but that is ok as is. With the teeth close like that, you will be able to pull up rocks pretty easy.

One caution, be sure to pull the blade up when you turn or those unsupported teeth will twist up like nothing and quick too!

jb
 
   / Rear blade project. #12  
Ahhhh... when you said lacenter I thought that was your home... I was referring to the deer dealer in that area. Watkins is where I assume you go, Those guys are killer... helped me a bunch and I have a PT. They even took the time to go to the website of PT and look at it to help me better describe the things I need....

All the best...

Carl
 
   / Rear blade project.
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Wow, you work fast! 1 min from a mock up to full paint.

Nice job. I would have wanted the back bar to go full length, but that is ok as is. With the teeth close like that, you will be able to pull up rocks pretty easy.

One caution, be sure to pull the blade up when you turn or those unsupported teeth will twist up like nothing and quick too!

jb

i don't think my little tractor could pull a full length bar, plus less teeth means more passes, which = more seat time!! thanks for the tip on turning. thats not full paint. LOL!! i found a 2/3 empty can of JD green in the garage. when it's officially done, it will be blasted, primed, and painted properly.
 
   / Rear blade project.
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Ahhhh... when you said lacenter I thought that was your home... I was referring to the deer dealer in that area. Watkins is where I assume you go, Those guys are killer... helped me a bunch and I have a PT. They even took the time to go to the website of PT and look at it to help me better describe the things I need....

All the best...

Carl

Watkin's is where i bought the ripper teeth today on my way home from the welding shop. very helpful and informative shop. the ridgefield dealer seems OK, as you explained earlier, we both are in agreement about which dealer is the turd w/out mentioning it's name.......
 
   / Rear blade project. #15  
Can you raise the teeth up so that they are just about 2" lower than the bottom of the blade? That would be a good depth for most things. Typically, you don't want to have them way down unless you are really agressively breaking up the soil. I am concerned that the teeth may bend as they are sticking down a ways, but if you are in rock free soil it may not be a problem. Best way to find out is to try it out!

Post up some pictures after you get the paint dirty.

jb
 
   / Rear blade project.
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Can you raise the teeth up so that they are just about 2" lower than the bottom of the blade? That would be a good depth for most things. Typically, you don't want to have them way down unless you are really agressively breaking up the soil. I am concerned that the teeth may bend as they are sticking down a ways, but if you are in rock free soil it may not be a problem. Best way to find out is to try it out!

Post up some pictures after you get the paint dirty.

jb

yes, when the teeth are all the way up, they are about 2 1/2 inches from bottom of blade. i will mostly be using it to prep the garden before tilling (clay soil = hard on the old craftsman tiller.) normally i get a truckload of sand and compost, then turn it over with my loader before tilling it in. the soils getting better, but three years later i still have lots o' clay. i can bury the teeth, and get deeper than my tiller can, add more sand, till, add more sand, till again, and hopefully be done! when we moved in, you couldn't even shovel it, would have been great for pottery though. the soil is ten times better now.
 
   / Rear blade project. #17  
Sounds like your on top of it.

We should probably swap 1/2 of each other yard. I could use some clay in the sandy ground I have!

jb
 
   / Rear blade project. #18  
Looks good.
One thing, don't have them engaged in the ground if (when) you make a turn.
They could bend that way, especially the deeper you have them. (Don't ask how I know.:))
 
   / Rear blade project.
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Looks good.
One thing, don't have them engaged in the ground if (when) you make a turn.
They could bend that way, especially the deeper you have them. (Don't ask how I know.:))

thanks. great idea, i have a way of finding things out the hard way too!
 
   / Rear blade project. #20  
Nice design and fabrication, FATTYF.

I don't think you will bend the ripper shanks with your 2305. Now a heavier
tractor sure could bend them (ask 3RRL).
 

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