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fattyfat1
Silver Member
yes, but i swap implements with my buddy who bought my 4310 last year, and that definetly will bend box blade teeth, ask me how i know!!
Rear blade project.
- Thread starter fattyfat1
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fattyfat1
Silver Member
so i was using the blade at my buddies house, and bent the ripper tooth bracket. back to the engineering and design board. apparently, i'm not as good of a welder as i think i am! LOL. so it's back at the shop for some gussets, and i plan to box in the bottom portion. i had the teeth BURIED 8" deep in solid clay with rocks ranging from softball to soccerball size, hooked a big rock, stopped the tractor dead, and bent a weld. OOPS. who would have thought my tiny little tractor could bend 1/2 steel. good thing i tried it out before i blasted and painted it.
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See post #15
You have to beware of rocks, but also roots. I've done more damage with roots than rocks. The rocks seem to give but roots seem to hold on tight.
jb
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fattyfat1
Silver Member
thanks John! breaking up the clay is exactly what we were trying to do.See post #15
You have to beware of rocks, but also roots. I've done more damage with roots than rocks. The rocks seem to give but roots seem to hold on tight.
jb
i knew there were rocks, i was using the teeth to bring them to the surface so we could throw em in the loader. i hear ya on the roots! caught one of those too! i chalk it up to speed and inexperience. never pulled ground engaging implements before, only box blades, and rotary cutters. i just figured we better use the modified 75$ blade to find the wood and rocks under the surface before we put his 1400$ JD tiller in the ground!!!!
J_J
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As soon as I saw the picture of the finished product, I thought , not enough metal around the shank. There is a lot of force above that pivot point. If you are going to use it this way, I would add a heavy duty bracket close to the bottom of the blade. Wrapping around the shank.
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fattyfat1
Silver Member
Thanks J J, thats the current plan. with my re-design, i have to keep in mind this will also be pulled by a 4310. twice the weight, twice the power. much more steel needs to be added, with gussets, and as you eluded, more steel near the bottom, wrapping the shank.
Actually, I use my rototiller in rocky soils and it has held up very well. KK gear 60". It's spit out rocks that I couldn't hardly lift. It also has hit rocks that made the whole tractor shake and shimmy. I don't like doing that to it, but have little choice.
In your "action shot", the angle made is very poor for what you are wanting to do. Can you add a false 3pt about 12" lower so that the main beam is parallel to the ground? That will make the scarifiers more points parallel and that will allow the rocks to come up. It's also better to do this when the ground is damp and soft so the rocks can come out easier. When it's dry and hard, the ground just seems to hold on with a death grip.
jb
In your "action shot", the angle made is very poor for what you are wanting to do. Can you add a false 3pt about 12" lower so that the main beam is parallel to the ground? That will make the scarifiers more points parallel and that will allow the rocks to come up. It's also better to do this when the ground is damp and soft so the rocks can come out easier. When it's dry and hard, the ground just seems to hold on with a death grip.
jb
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fattyfat1
Silver Member
if you look closely at the pic you'll see the "bracket" that holds the teeth is perpendicular to the ground. for blading i would want the main beam parallel, but for ripping, it would point the tooth tips up at too great of an angle to really dig in very well. (i think?) with the bracket perpendicular to the ground, the shanks are perp. also, which puts the teeth at the correct angle like on a box blade or CAT with a ripper on the back.(i think?)
I'm not sure I follow. You want the long part of the scarifier (the shank) straight up and down. Then the tooth part will be parallel to the surface of the ground. The top of the tooth's cutting edge is beveled with the pointy part on the bottom. Before the tooth sinks into the ground, it is up high and pointed down a bit. As it sinks down and starts ripping, it gets more and more parallel. When it is full depth, it should have the shank straight up and down and the bottom of the scarifier parallel. It is more able to pull up rocks and not be damaged when in the at configuration. If the shank is tipped forward (toward the tractor), the bottom parts teeth are pointed down a bunch and when it snaggs a rock with the tip, it has no strength and is at maximum extension from the support for easy twisting damage.
All that may have made no sense, but it's hard to explain!
jb
All that may have made no sense, but it's hard to explain!
jb
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fattyfat1
Silver Member
exactly! when the teeth are in the ground, the shanks are strait up and down. the bracket on my blade is not welded on perpendicular to the main beam. in the pic, the shanks are strait up and down, fully engaged in the soil, which gives the teeth the proper angle for tillage. you can tell by looking at the bracket that holds the teeth, not the main beam.