Rear Blade Rear Blade quality

   / Rear Blade quality #31  
John,

Good point. We've got some good spots and some bad spots in the driveway, and it doesn't exactly resemble a pool table top.

My problem (?) with the shoes is this: I don't want to leave any snow down - I can just see leaving a nice little skim coat of snow that will freeze up overnight and then we've got ourselves a skating rink. Is this not a problem with the skid shoes and asphalt?

Rob
 
   / Rear Blade quality #32  
Leaving a little snow (1/4" or so) on the driveway shouldn't be a problem. The sun will melt it away during the day, leaving a dry drive way by night. Grading right on asphalt or even concrete is asking for damage.

I think I'm going to build some adjustable casters for my blade.
 
   / Rear Blade quality
  • Thread Starter
#33  
<font color=blue>...Is this not a problem with the skid shoes and asphalt?...</font color=blue>

No different than the state or county snow plow trucks with their skid shoes...or using your old snow shovel...

Usually within the first 30 minutes after plowing, that top ~1/8" thin layer usually dissipates...most of the time, you wouldn't realize you even were using the skid shoes... that's how clean it really it.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

18-35197-JD5205JFMsignaturelogo.JPG
 
   / Rear Blade quality #34  
Wheeldog

That's right, once you drop any 3PL implement onto the ground, there is no down pressure on it, and it will "float" up.

Just like when you park your tractor and drop the hydraulics, you can lift the arms up no problems.

Cheers

<font color=blue>Neil from OZ.</font color=blue>
 
   / Rear Blade quality #35  
njrqs,

<font color=blue>That's right, once you drop any 3PL implement onto the ground, there is no down pressure on it, and it will "float" up.</font color=blue>

This is still a little confusing to me. With a blade or plow, it may float. However, it will begin to "sink" into whatever material is under the implement. In other words, without skid shoes, casters, etc., a blade will more than likely dig into the surface.

Or then again, maybe I just don't understand the mechanics of the 3pt hitch and implement usage. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Terry
 
   / Rear Blade quality #36  
In terms of the blade "sinking" into the material, it all depends on how soft the material is and how angled you have the blade.

When I used my blade for landscaping this summer, it generally would not dig into the grass if I ran it over the lawn. It would, of course, level off any peaks or mounds. If I angled or tilted the blade, then it would dig in more.

Even using it to level dirt piles, I would have to make a number of passes to get the dirt scrapped down to the level that I desired.

Many times, the tractor (B7500) would get bogged down by the bite that the blade took, and I'd have to lessen the bite.

I think that is the key to using the blade on a good paved surface for snow removal. If the blade is either perfectly straight or angled back a bit (ie: the top link lengthened), I doubt that you would dig up the asphalt. Even if it did start to grab a solid piece of asphalt, I think that the combination of the tractor moving slowly and the wheels already being on a slick surface (snow/ice) will prevent any large chunks of the driveway from being ripped up (because the tractor would end up stopping).

I guess I'll find out after the first snow.
 
   / Rear Blade quality
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Rear Blade-Top-links & skid shoes

<font color=blue>...If I angled or tilted the blade, then it would dig in more...</font color=blue>

The Top-Link adjustment is one of the keys to a number of implements... adjusting the pitch effects how aggressive the unit is whether it's a rear blade, plow, or boxblade...etc.

So disregard the float or no float aspect of the 3-point hitch arms for a moment... if you have that top-link adjusted within a certain range and you have an el cheapo 3-point rear blade hooked up that only weighs say 150 lbs... you can still peel up that blacktop/asphalt in a blink of an eye...

Another way of looking at "skid shoes" is how they work on a tiller...

So depending on what implement they are used on... they provide a height or depth adjustment...

18-35196-JDMFWDSigJFM.JPG
 
   / Rear Blade quality #38  
Re: Rear Blade-Top-links & skid shoes

The weight of the blade you're using is going to be a big factor in how much damage you do to your driveway if you don't use shoes. A medium blade will still peel up blacktop if you have any dips or high spots. The shoes can be adjusted very minutely by using washers as spacers (1/16" adjustment per washer) and even more finely tuned by shortening/lenghtening your top link which makes the blade "roll" forward or backward on the shoes so you actually have infinite adjustment. In 4 wd with rear chains and a 7ft medium duty blade I haven't caught anything yet that stopped the tractor and a high spot definitely wouldn't do it, the blacktop would definitely lose that battle! (I Like the post that equated them to shear bolts - cheap insureance and makes the implement a lot more versatile.) (I'm still kicking myself in the a*& for not getting the guage wheels on the york rake for the same reason)
 
   / Rear Blade quality #39  
Re: Rear Blade-Top-links & skid shoes

It may be that the blade I have (Woods RB60) is deemed to be medium to light duty.

I say that because Woods does not offer shoes for this model, but does offer them for all of the larger models (RB72). My interpretation of that (not offering them) is that they aren't necessary (even though they may be convenient).

There aren't any holes to put the shoes on, so I'd somehow have to rig up some type of "clip ons". I would think that Woods would have allowed for them on this model blade if they were necessary.
 
   / Rear Blade quality #40  
Re: Rear Blade-Top-links & skid shoes

snowman,

I would image that you could buy the shoes for the larger models and perform some field engineering to the smaller blade. I was hoping to get mine done this weekend but my welder had an appointment with some friends at the local watering hole on Saturday evening and had to cancel out on the work on Sunday. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif However, the RB60 I have performed very well this weekend cutting in, leveling, and moving lots a material for my friends new driveway around his house. Didn't get any pictures. Try to next weedend.

Terry
 
 

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