Rear blade technique and whether hydraulics are really needed

[Ford850]

Thanks for posting that advice. I have struggled with dips in my driveway for two years and will try your method. If makes sense to keep the tractor on the most level portion (the portion just graded) to reduce the digging and mounding caused when the rear tires are going up and down. I have an adapter plate that allows me to put my rear 3ph blade on the FEL SSQA. That will let me drive forward. I will also play with trying it in float mode. I know it is foolish to "bulldoze" with the FEL but I will be taking light cuts...time is not a big factor for me if it works...I only have a 300 yard drive.

Between the angle and going in reverse, it makes a huge difference for me. Depending on the state of the drive (deep loose gravel, hard packed, etc) I can sometimes let it float and sometimes I have to baby the height to keep it barely pushing some gravel without going deep. Moving slow makes it easier too. Good luck with yours.

 

[Smokeydog]

CoyPatten descriptions are good. My blade offset by swinging the grader frame. Angle by the many adjustment holes on the blade swivel. Tilt is with the 3pt leveling arm or box. The blade is able to tilt more by pin holes but don’t use that feature.

Beware of pushing back on 3pt hitches with grader blades or yard boxes. The tractor and implement hitch mounts are stronger pulling than pushing. I’ve had to straighten and strengthen several.

 

[CobyRupert]

The only float I know for non-hydraulics, besides the 3PTH itself, would be if you pulled the “angle” pin and let the blade float with the surface contours.
I let mine float “hydraulically” when I move snow so I don’t cut ditches in the lawn when I don’t want to.
This, of course, makes it hard to cut ditches when you want to.