Rear blade technique and whether hydraulics are really needed

[ovrszd]

You sure about that ??

Rolling the moldboard forward (shortening the top link) lessens the moldboard's tendency to "suck" itself under the surface and lift material.

Rolling the moldboard back (lengthening the top link) increases the moldboard's tendency to "suck" itself under the surface and lift material.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Rolling the moldboard forward (shortening the top link) lessens the moldboard's tendency to "suck" itself under the surface and lift material.

Rolling the moldboard back (lengthening the top link) increases the moldboard's tendency to "suck" itself under the surface and lift material.

Right, so I was shortening the top link to make it less aggressive, but still ended up getting way more material than I wanted because of other problems (e.g. rear tires hit a dip in the surface I'm trying to smooth). Getting some good things to try here though, so hopefully my next pass will show improvements.

 

[ovrszd]

Right, so I was shortening the top link to make it less aggressive, but still ended up getting way more material than I wanted because of other problems (e.g. rear tires hit a dip in the surface I'm trying to smooth). Getting some good things to try here though, so hopefully my next pass will show improvements.

I have a RBT3596. It cuts very well.

 

[oosik]

My Rhino 950 is all manual except for hydraulic top link. It's - 96" @ 1050#. Adding tilt, offset & angle would have been an extra $3000, at least. I have only one rear SVC valve.

 

[RustyA]

Try angling blade fully to the right and slightly lowering right side of three point. Make one pass out and another pass in without changing blade. That should cut ruts and make your crown. Then adjust blade straight and level and back into your crown out and back without lowering the blade all the way on the first pass.

 

[Smokeydog]

Using a 6 way manual blade to maintain driveway I had to rarely face a heavy blade forward. With the blade backward it still moves gravel. First, Offset, angle and more tilt to bring material from edges and ditches back into the driveway. Then several passes to bring material to center, lessening the tilt and offset. Blade still backward and angled. Then finish with blade angled, no tilt or offset to smooth. Took about 10-12 miles of driving to do a 1/2mile driveway.

Had to use mower or bush hog to mulch, grind or blow leaves off the driveway before grading. Driveway winds down thru the woods.

Box blade was used every couple of years to help carry aggregate uphill in spots. 300’ elevation difference in 1/2 mile. You can smooth a drive better with a grader blade than a box blade.

Now just use a land plane with a slight tilt. Just a couple of passes...done. No adjusting. Driveway stay harder, drains better, smoother and lasts longer between touch ups.

Grade to get the water off the road. Managing your fines for best compaction of the aggregate is key.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Using a 6 way manual blade to maintain driveway I had to rarely face a heavy blade forward. With the blade backward it still moves gravel. First, Offset, angle and more tilt to bring material from edges and ditches back into the driveway. Then several passes to bring material to center, lessening the tilt and offset. Blade still backward and angled. Then finish with blade angled, no tilt or offset to smooth. Took about 10-12 miles of driving to do a 1/2mile driveway.

Had to use mower or bush hog to mulch, grind or blow leaves off the driveway before grading. Driveway winds down thru the woods.

Box blade was used every couple of years to help carry aggregate uphill in spots. 300’ elevation difference in 1/2 mile. You can smooth a drive better with a grader blade than a box blade.

Now just use a land plane with a slight tilt. Just a couple of passes...done. No adjusting. Driveway stay harder, drains better, smoother and lasts longer between touch ups.

Grade to get the water off the road. Managing your fines for best compaction of the aggregate is key.

Would you please clarify what you mean by each of the terms "offset" "angle" and "tilt", just to make sure I'm on the same page. Thanks.

 

[LouNY]

Using a 6 way manual blade to maintain driveway I had to rarely face a heavy blade forward. With the blade backward it still moves gravel. First, Offset, angle and more tilt to bring material from edges and ditches back into the driveway. Then several passes to bring material to center, lessening the tilt and offset. Blade still backward and angled. Then finish with blade angled, no tilt or offset to smooth. Took about 10-12 miles of driving to do a 1/2mile driveway.

Had to use mower or bush hog to mulch, grind or blow leaves off the driveway before grading. Driveway winds down thru the woods.

Box blade was used every couple of years to help carry aggregate uphill in spots. 300’ elevation difference in 1/2 mile. You can smooth a drive better with a grader blade than a box blade.

Now just use a land plane with a slight tilt. Just a couple of passes...done. No adjusting. Driveway stay harder, drains better, smoother and lasts longer between touch ups.

Grade to get the water off the road. Managing your fines for best compaction of the aggregate is key.

I'll second that method of using the rear blade, pulling it backwards at an angle will move and level your driveway.
I have never understood the fascination with the top and tilt combinations, I like and use a hydraulic top link but I much prefer my tilt hydraulic on the actual implement it is more precise and easier to adjust to me. Also for the tilt on your blade if it has the ears for a hydraulic cylinder you can get a manual adjuster for that;
Speeco Heavy Duty Ratchet Jack S541-SL1541
It is a adjustable link that can replace a hydraulic cylinder.

 

[CoyPatton]

Would you please clarify what you mean by each of the terms "offset" "angle" and "tilt", just to make sure I'm on the same page. Thanks.

As of yet no one has responded to this so let me give my uses of those terms

Offset: 2 styles of offset
1) the blade itself slides to the left or right of center OFF-SETTING the blade from center
2) I have seen rear blades where the main rearward arm from the 3PH hookup swings to one side or the other (L or R) again OFF-SETTING the blade to either side

Angle: this is where you change the blade angle from a straight line basically the same distance from each rear wheel to an angle where one end of the blade is closer to a rear tire and the opposite end is further away from the rear tire on that side.
(Note: if your offset is of the 2nd type described above, you create an angle as a part of offset your angle becomes greater as you creat more offset on this style. You can adjust this by changing the angle settings on the rear portion of the blade).

Tilt: there are 2 types of tilt.
1) you should have an adjustable side linkage from the upper lift arm to the lower lift arm. Typically the linkage on the Right side is adjustable (however, I have seen these on the left and on both sides). This allows that side linkage to be shorten and lengthened thus making adjustments to the tilt of anything attached to the 3PH.

2) some blades have the ability to tilt as a part of the frame on the blade itself. Usually a pin with a series of holes (similar to the angle adjustment of the blade). This can be used in combination with the 3PH tilt to provide greater adjustment ranges.

 

[shooterdon]

When I said going in reverse I meant keeping the blade facing forward but driving in reverse. With the blade angled, it eliminates the rises and dips in the surface and moves a little gravel to the center (if angled the correct direction). Since the blade is traveling backwards you use the back side of that blade as a less aggressive option.
.

Thanks for posting that advice. I have struggled with dips in my driveway for two years and will try your method. If makes sense to keep the tractor on the most level portion (the portion just graded) to reduce the digging and mounding caused when the rear tires are going up and down. I have an adapter plate that allows me to put my rear 3ph blade on the FEL SSQA. That will let me drive forward. I will also play with trying it in float mode. I know it is foolish to "bulldoze" with the FEL but I will be taking light cuts...time is not a big factor for me if it works...I only have a 300 yard drive.