OP
tomcase580b
Bronze Member
DJ can you tell me if that pin on the outrigger is a locking pin that I can keep the outriggers locked in place while taking the wheel off by moving the pin to the opposite hole?
rear end brake problems
- Thread starter tomcase580b
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DJ can you tell me if that pin on the outrigger is a locking pin that I can keep the outriggers locked in place while taking the wheel off by moving the pin to the opposite hole?
DJ54
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Couldn't say it is, or isn't. My 480C isn't like that as far as a pin keeper. Mine has snap rings holding the pin in place.
What I did, was cribbed up under the bracket with large wooden blocking the pin goes through, then folded the outrigger back up out of the way.
What I did, was cribbed up under the bracket with large wooden blocking the pin goes through, then folded the outrigger back up out of the way.
OP
tomcase580b
Bronze Member
Hey DJ54…thanks for inspiring me…I got a set of 6 ton jack stands and some air tools and started stripping her down tonight. this is what I found when I got the top cover off the diff. I'm really happy it's not the axel. but it looks like i have alot of work ahead of me. I'm going to wait for the service manual now. I believe that is the differential gear assembly thats shredded...
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,594
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Looks like the bull pinion shaft/gear. I did some checking around the other evening, and found this one on epay: New Case A144337 Side Gear Fits 580B 580CK 430 530 480C | eBay IF it happens to be the right one. After market I'm sure, but Case Construction price is $499.00.
Now is when you need your parts manual, to check the part numbers, or check the part number(s) online. I just checked Case Construction, and I believe that pieces part number has been superceded to a couple others.
Also, if you want to check, or need any other parts, check here: Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries They beat everyone hands down at the time I needed parts for mine. No prices listed on a lot of items, you just need to call. You'll more then likely be talking with Bill Pingley. Or ask for him, he knows his stuff..!! Tell him Dave J., from Carroll, OH sent you.
Good luck..!!
Now is when you need your parts manual, to check the part numbers, or check the part number(s) online. I just checked Case Construction, and I believe that pieces part number has been superceded to a couple others.
Also, if you want to check, or need any other parts, check here: Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries They beat everyone hands down at the time I needed parts for mine. No prices listed on a lot of items, you just need to call. You'll more then likely be talking with Bill Pingley. Or ask for him, he knows his stuff..!! Tell him Dave J., from Carroll, OH sent you.
Good luck..!!
OP
tomcase580b
Bronze Member
DJ...I hate to be a pain?o you have any idea how to get the axel out. I removed the castle nut and cotter pin but the axel only comes out a half inch?o I need a puller??'m so close...
OP
tomcase580b
Bronze Member
just watched a you tube video of a guy removing the same axel…he beat it with a lump hammer…guess ima gunna do the same
DJ54
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- Carroll, Ohio
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Oops..., sorry just saw this... Hope you got it out..!!
OP
tomcase580b
Bronze Member
Got it out with two whacks!!!
Ok so here is what I found. When fishing out and counting all of the broken teeth (13). I found the head of one of the bolts that hold the ring gear assembly together. (See Pic) It looks as though this could have been the original problem. I don't know what could have caused that head to snap off...Maybe a broken tooth, but it clearly has a tooth mark through it. (See Pic) I really do not want to take the brakes off the other side and remove the ring gear assembly. I dont think I can get it out from the side that I have off because the shaft is too long and needs to be pushed to the other side to allow the ring gear to come off. I'm sure I'll be ok with the one bolt missing, but half of it is still in there. not sure if that will wiggle its way out one day and the same thing happen all over again. Heres my thinking? If dont have to take the carrier assembly off of the other side, and all I have to do is take the cover assembly off to slide the shaft over, I'll do that. I had one heck of a time getting the carrier assembly off of the side i was working on, and snapped the 7/32 allen head set screw . Do you think that taking the cover off is all i have to do? And which is the part that I need to order 8 or 11 I'm thinking 11
Ok so here is what I found. When fishing out and counting all of the broken teeth (13). I found the head of one of the bolts that hold the ring gear assembly together. (See Pic) It looks as though this could have been the original problem. I don't know what could have caused that head to snap off...Maybe a broken tooth, but it clearly has a tooth mark through it. (See Pic) I really do not want to take the brakes off the other side and remove the ring gear assembly. I dont think I can get it out from the side that I have off because the shaft is too long and needs to be pushed to the other side to allow the ring gear to come off. I'm sure I'll be ok with the one bolt missing, but half of it is still in there. not sure if that will wiggle its way out one day and the same thing happen all over again. Heres my thinking? If dont have to take the carrier assembly off of the other side, and all I have to do is take the cover assembly off to slide the shaft over, I'll do that. I had one heck of a time getting the carrier assembly off of the side i was working on, and snapped the 7/32 allen head set screw . Do you think that taking the cover off is all i have to do? And which is the part that I need to order 8 or 11 I'm thinking 11
OP
tomcase580b
Bronze Member
I can't get the shaft to slide free from the ring gear…seems from the diagram that it should slide out. there is about an 1/8 inch play but no go..I really wanted to get the ring gear out and parts wash everything. I'm thinking wash everything in the housing. any ideas on how I can succesfully make a home made parts washer and get all those teeth clean from dirt and little metal pieces.
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,594
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Hopefully, these pages/pics out of my manual will help. It does appear to remove the diffy, both side will need to come out/off.
As far as which shaft to get, it say's which shaft for a certain side (whether L or R) in the parts description. I do belive #11 is the one I found on ebay for $100.00. Up to you to decide if you want to trust an aftermarket part here. From checking Case Construction, theirs are $499.00.
I'm guessing that bolt backed out of the ring gear. Possibly, progressively cutting that groove in there. There is to be thread locker on those bolts to prevent that. Whether a PO, or possibly someone else working on it previously missed it, or missed when assembled at the factory.
Is the bolt sheared off even, or flush with the face of the gear..?? I'm thinking it may not be that hard to back on out. This is where a set of left hand drill bits come in handy. Sometimes just drilling will turn them out. Regular bits, and an easy-out should get it. A LOT depends on if, and how much it sideways mushroomed, or distorted the bolt. Most I've dealt with, the shoulder on the bolt is a snug fit, so there actually shouldn't be too much distortion. But there has been some serious hammering going on there. If you do manage to get it out, it should be progressively torqued to a final 55 ft. lbs. Go, 30, 40, then 55 ft. lbs.
Next question is, if the diffy is removed, will a dial indicator be needed to set the backlash in the ring & pinion. It does show it being done on back a ways, but that is completely rebuilding the diffy assy. Just hope you kept all the shims in their proper place..!!
Also note you'll need #12, which is a cup plug. Looks to be $13.75 at Case, & $5.00 aftermarket.
I used the advanced feature to load the pics, and it took me away from the thread, to read back. So will load this so as not to lose it, LOL...
As far as which shaft to get, it say's which shaft for a certain side (whether L or R) in the parts description. I do belive #11 is the one I found on ebay for $100.00. Up to you to decide if you want to trust an aftermarket part here. From checking Case Construction, theirs are $499.00.
I'm guessing that bolt backed out of the ring gear. Possibly, progressively cutting that groove in there. There is to be thread locker on those bolts to prevent that. Whether a PO, or possibly someone else working on it previously missed it, or missed when assembled at the factory.
Is the bolt sheared off even, or flush with the face of the gear..?? I'm thinking it may not be that hard to back on out. This is where a set of left hand drill bits come in handy. Sometimes just drilling will turn them out. Regular bits, and an easy-out should get it. A LOT depends on if, and how much it sideways mushroomed, or distorted the bolt. Most I've dealt with, the shoulder on the bolt is a snug fit, so there actually shouldn't be too much distortion. But there has been some serious hammering going on there. If you do manage to get it out, it should be progressively torqued to a final 55 ft. lbs. Go, 30, 40, then 55 ft. lbs.
Next question is, if the diffy is removed, will a dial indicator be needed to set the backlash in the ring & pinion. It does show it being done on back a ways, but that is completely rebuilding the diffy assy. Just hope you kept all the shims in their proper place..!!
Also note you'll need #12, which is a cup plug. Looks to be $13.75 at Case, & $5.00 aftermarket.
I used the advanced feature to load the pics, and it took me away from the thread, to read back. So will load this so as not to lose it, LOL...
