rear end brake problems

   / rear end brake problems #21  
As for the shaft not sliding out. Probably the weight of the diffy hanging on the shaft may have it binding. I do recall in the manual, about not taking both carriers out at the same time, as it will let the differential drop.

As for cleaning, again up to you. I've used diesel to flush housings. More than several cans of carb. or brake cleaner. Brake cleaner flashes off quick, and leaves no residue. I've got a pressurized spray can that holds about 1 1/2 quarts for jobs like this. Maybe a squirt bottle of some kind would work, if you were able to turn the bearings, while applying what ever solvent you decide on. Maybe something like that first, then final cleanup with brake cleaner..??
 
   / rear end brake problems
  • Thread Starter
#22  
ok I ordered part # 12…and a new set of #15 the shims…mine are all knarley….I already started spraying the final drives with brake clean and getting them all clean…I was thinking of doing the same thing in the differential…just keep moving and spraying and clean up the bottom of the housing with rags…I'll have to work on that bolt though. Thanks again…pics to follow
 
   / rear end brake problems
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Went to Sears (I hate Sears) Got this little 90 gizmo drilled it a bit, and used my easy out set, and the broken bolt eventually came out. I was looking for an adapter that I could have put on my 3/8/ air ratchet, but this is all they had. Worked really well. Bits were awesome. I thought it was going to be crap and been returned within an hour, but she's a keeper.

screw out.jpg
 
   / rear end brake problems
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Bathed in Diesel…Waiting for parts…Will clean with brake clean prior to reassembly…Im going to call the case dealer to see if I can get that bolt…The parts book does not show it as a separate item...

cleaned diffy.jpg
 
   / rear end brake problems #25  
Looking good..!! :thumbsup:

Years ago, I bought a Milwaukee 3/8" 90º angle drill. Worth it's weight in gold for jobs like this.

Man, those bolts do look short..! Reckon' they would be, as the plate & ring gear are pretty thin. Strange they don't show them separate. Hope the dealer has an experienced parts guy, or a wrench in back that has just replaced the bolts, and knows what to get. Worst case scenario, would be to remove another bolt, if you have a good industrial supply house close that could match the bolt. Or maybe a good high performance shop..?? I'm thinking of something comparable to Jegs in our area, or Summit Racing.

A little heads up for you when you put the carrier plate back on, on the outside. I don't know if they still use the Phillips head screws in them or not. I am very fortunate to have a great industrial supply house close with an awesome selection of bolts, screws, etc. I replaced those Phillips head screws with female hex drive one's. Something like 3/8" X 3/4" long. If I remember right, they are only torqued to 12-15 in. lbs.

Also, if you don't get your manual before putting that back together, the book does call for using a special shim tool to slide the carrier over the shaft splines to keep from damaging the seal. An old Case mechanic told me a secret on doing that on another forum. Wrap the new bull pinion shaft, sliding gear, whatever you call it, with electric tape. The trick is, to start at the smooth part of the shaft beyond the splines, but outside of where the seal rides, and wrap outwards over the end of the shaft, and leave a little tab on the end to grasp when you have the carrier assy. in place. Wrapping from the inside, out, leaves a smooth edge for the seal to ride over. Coat the tape liberally with 90wt. Then slide the carrier assy. on CAREFULLY so as not to roll the lip on the seal. Once it is fastened in place, simply grasp the tab on the tape, and pull it off. It works pretty slick..!!
 
   / rear end brake problems
  • Thread Starter
#26  
ok now I'm a little concerned…Again I'm no mechanic, so I do not know the severity of any of this. I could do what you said and maybe go to a performance shop and have one of those bolts made… I was going to leave it out…lol…there are 15 other ones in there …anyway…I can do that…here is the real problem…

The set screw that you talk about for the carrier plate…was changed out to an allen head at one time…. I could not get that bugger loose….I actually snapped an allen wrench inside while trying to remove….(the least of my problems now)…I figured this was just a set screw to aid in reassembly…While removing the carrier plate (using some force)… the bolt actually broke away with a pice of the casting…fell right on the ground…there is no way thats going back in….unless I fill it with something and re-tap it… i'll try and take some pics
 
   / rear end brake problems
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Good news is... the bolt still threads into the casting. I should be able to find that bolt pretty much anywhere. I may have one at work. I'm not sure if I should fix the casting, or just blob some silicone in there before re-assembly to make up the void... Just thought of something... I will need a bolt threw or four threads longer now...


casting1.jpgset screw.jpg
 
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   / rear end brake problems #28  
I'm thinking it's probably a standard ring gear bolt. Surely it's used in many other applications. I just Googled "ring gear bolts", and got a zillion hits. Bad thing, only seem to be sold in sets, which makes sense... Just a quick look showed prices from $9.99-$19.99 per set. And you know a shop isn't going to break a set. Hmmm...

Wow, betting someone read the torque specs wrong on that screw, and went 12-15 ft. labs, instead of in. lbs. I couldn't remember if the holes were tapped clear through the case or not. None the less, a 1" X 3/8" hex head screw should be fairly common item.

Was thinking too... Did it appear to damage the diff. lock mechanism..?? I cant really recall on the Case, but pretty sure on the Massey 180, it was made from cast aluminum/pot metal material.
 
   / rear end brake problems
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Went to the hardware store today and got a 1" and an 1.25 " black oxide hex head screw. The original one was 3/4". I borrowed a tap from work but I don't think I'll need it. I did call case though, and those are ring gear rivets not bolts so there is no replacement. Not really sure what to do now... Not sure if the rivet failed and caused the whole problem, or if one of those teeth from the side gear shot up and wedged between the housing and the rivet and caused it to shear off. Either way can't replace it.
 
   / rear end brake problems #30  
Call it a factory update, and hope for the best..!!??
 

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