Rear Hyd Remote stuck

KWentling · Oct 29, 2016

Very, very important to clean it first and keep everything spotless. Dirt kills hydraulics. Clearances are VERY small so the slightest piece of crap can cause problems. That is likely the cause of this problem. Like was stated above, it might be a detent problem. You will probably end up pulling the spool out and correcting what ever is causing it to be tight. If it needs "polished" up, use very fine, 500 grit or finer paper and do not round over any corners. The sharp edges make it self cleaning so to speak. If there is a burr, use a fine stone to remove it. Then clean it throughly and oil it before reinstalling it.

Zebrafive · Oct 30, 2016

If these valves are stacked and held together by long bolts, it's possible the bolts were tightened too tight and this is causing the spool to bind.

coosa · Oct 30, 2016

Once again, I don't know the terminology and how it works well enough to tell you if they are stacked or not. It will be later in the week before I'll be at the farm again where the tractor is located. I'll try to clean it good and make pics and maybe you guys can advise me on my options. If I could just remove the valve I could take it somewhere to have it repaired if it's too much for me, and it probably is.

I got ready to leave the farm Saturday and when I went to put it under the shed the 3 point hitch lift wouldn't work. It's done this before and the manual did explain how to tighten the friction device. I think that's the problem again; if it isn't I may have major problems. Thanks again for all the help.

countrybumpkin · Oct 30, 2016

Don't worry about not knowing the correct terminology, we can help you learn what's what. If you can get some good pics that will defiantly help us give you some help. As for the 3pt not working, if the valve that is sticking is stuck one way or the other and trying to supply fluid to either of the remotes then it may have the fluid bypassing in the relief valve and this would effect the 3pt and make it not lift. Also if it is stuck and causing the fluid to bypass you do not want to run the tractor at all this way it can lead to damage in the hydraulic system.

Zebrafive · Oct 31, 2016

If your rear SCVs look like key 11 in the drawing (two side by side) with 3 bolts key 20 holding them together, if the bolts are too tight, they can cause the spool to bind. You want the minimum to keep them from leaking, 25-40lb ft of torque range.

I would loosen the three bolts, and torque to 25lb ft. See if that frees up number two. If they leak between each other tighten a little more.

coosa · Oct 31, 2016

countrybumpkin said:
Don't worry about not knowing the correct terminology, we can help you learn what's what. If you can get some good pics that will defiantly help us give you some help. As for the 3pt not working, if the valve that is sticking is stuck one way or the other and trying to supply fluid to either of the remotes then it may have the fluid bypassing in the relief valve and this would effect the 3pt and make it not lift. Also if it is stuck and causing the fluid to bypass you do not want to run the tractor at all this way it can lead to damage in the hydraulic system.

Would the FEL and the other SCV still work normally if that is what is happening? They do, and that and the fact that the lever that controls the 3 pt lift seems too easy to lift makes me hope that its just the friction device needs to be tightened. Thanks for the info.

coosa · Oct 31, 2016

Zebrafive, that looks like the correct drawing. I will clean it good and post some pics. Thanks for the help.

I finally got time to look over the manual again; it does look like it has a float position. I had just never used it because I have only the one piece of equipment that uses the remotes and the float position would have no use that I can see for the blade angle. If disabling the float would fix the issue then that's the thing to do.

coosa · Nov 3, 2016

I got to the farm this morning and adjusted the bolts on the rockshaft lever and it had no effect; the 3 pt hitch doesn't lift at all. So I guess the stuck valve is affecting it in some way. I'm attaching a few pics so you guys can see exactly how it is set up.

The 3 pt hitch has now quit working 3 times in the 4 years I owned it. The first time adjusting the friction bolts fixed it. The second event happened when I was discing and the lift just quit working. I thought it might be the friction again so I just kept running it, wanting to finish the job. After about 15 minutes it went back to working and has not failed again until this event.

I had another event of some kind with it last summer when the entire drive train started getting very hot. I drove it back to the house and completely lost all braking power just before getting there. The temp beside the pto shaft was 301. I let it sit an hour and it worked fine. I've always suspected it was one of those scv valves getting bumped by accident, but I am only guessing. I changed the hyd fluid and filter and it's worked normally until this latest incident.

I thought of unhooking the blade and running it some to see it the lift would start back working like it did before, but that sounds like a bad idea now. I'll wait and see if anyone has an idea of what I should do before calling the dealer. Thanks for any help!

Edit: Photobucket isn't working. I'll post this and try to add pics in the next post.

coosa · Nov 3, 2016

Is the bolt with the paper in it one of the ones that could be too tight?

beenthere · Nov 3, 2016

Yes, I believe those would be the ones.. and looks like the added valve was not painted green, may have been rusty, and may be the one needing some "overhaul" help... if loosening the cap screws (with the paper) doesn't help.
Removal would be disconnecting the hyd. lines, and removing the cap screws. Taking the end off that rusty one may reveal the problem.. but that is just a guess.