Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Low fluid level isn't an issue. In what I described the return to tank fitting enters the reservoir above the fluid level. Nothing that can done about that.

But we're not sure that is your problem yet.

The DPCV will help with this problem if you can be without float?

In your previous post you said after you cycled it the fault was gone until you used the ram again ( reset ) which does indicate air getting in but that doesn’t seem to be my issue. Even though I did cycle it a few times it has never worked at all correctly but will have another go to make sure but it’s a pain going 700m away just to give it a trial, maybe try hanging on it but 58 kg might not be enough.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #13  
If you don't need to make adjustments on the fly (sort of defeats the purpose) you can always just disconnect the hoses...it will lock the cylinder...
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#14  
If you don't need to make adjustments on the fly (sort of defeats the purpose) you can always just disconnect the hoses...it will lock the cylinder...

I suppose I could try that to test the cylinder.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #15  
If the cylinder has air in it uncoupling the hoses will have no impact.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #16  
If the cylinder has air in it uncoupling the hoses will have no impact.

Sure it will...the air can't go anywhere the same as the oil...enough force will compress any air which will push back when said force is lessened...If the cylinder has been fully cycled I doubt there is any air anyway...
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Sure it will...the air can't go anywhere the same as the oil...enough force will compress any air which will push back when said force is lessened...If the cylinder has been fully cycled I doubt there is any air anyway...

Further tests. I have cycled the cylinder many times. It does work fine when cycled. I have then left the ram in the fully extended position, turned off the engine and disconnected the two hoses. Then allow the 3 point hitch to lower the implement ( stick rake ) . The ram on the top link goes back in with the weight of the rake. This indicates to me that it’s not on the tractor side.
So is it still an air lock or hydraulic leaking in the cylinder. Thanks to all.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Is all the air purged out of your new t/l cylinder?

Is there a correct way of doing this. In the instructions I received with the cylinder it says not normally required to do anything other than cycling it a few times, do you know of another method. Thanks
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #19  
I made my own top link cylinder. The first time I hooked up the hydraulic lines I cycled the cylinder with the ports up. That way I was sure that here was no air left inside the cylinder. Then I attached the hydraulic cylinder to the top links. Mine doesn't move as far as I know, once the lever is in the neutral position.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I made my own top link cylinder. The first time I hooked up the hydraulic lines I cycled the cylinder with the ports up. That way I was sure that here was no air left inside the cylinder. Then I attached the hydraulic cylinder to the top links. Mine doesn't move as far as I know, once the lever is in the neutral position.

Sounds just the same as mine except mine goes in and out as it goes over the bumps.
 

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