Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

   / Rear hydraulic remote . #21  
Sure it will...the air can't go anywhere the same as the oil...enough force will compress any air which will push back when said force is lessened...If the cylinder has been fully cycled I doubt there is any air anyway...

No it won't. And you fully explained why.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #22  
Sounds just the same as mine except mine goes in and out as it goes over the bumps.

There is still the possibility of cylinder failure. This will be harder to test.

You have already tried cycling and the uncoupling. Was this done with no load on the cylinder? If so then we would assume you've purged the cylinder. If so then it should not move with hoses uncoupled if no air exists. If it moves then that would indicate internal cylinder problems.

With a new cylinder this is very rare. But possible.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #23  
Is there a correct way of doing this. In the instructions I received with the cylinder it says not normally required to do anything other than cycling it a few times, do you know of another method. Thanks
First try to determine if this is an air problem. You say it moves. Trapped air will give you a spring effect as the air can be compressed and you can have this springy action. I'd hang an implement on the 3 point, raise it up and physically pick up on it observing what's going on at your top link, maybe a wrap of electric tape on the cyl. rod to observe movement better. Bleeding the air is not too different than your brakes, but remember you have both sides of the cylinders along with the hoses.
Normally this air will work it's way out by cycling a few times, but I've had cylinders that have a built in check valve that takes hundreds of psi to open making bleeding interesting, then there's the possibility of similar "quirks" with the tractor valve and plumbing.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #24  
Or cycle the cylinder to purge. Stop cylinder in mid stroke. Set the implement down with 3pt. Uncouple hoses. Drop 3pt lever to bottom. Leave it overnight. If cylinder is bypassing internally it will compress considerably. Depending on weight of implement it may not fully compress but will show considerable movement.

Eric, trying to brainstorm ways to test cylinder integrity.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#25  
First try to determine if this is an air problem. You say it moves. Trapped air will give you a spring effect as the air can be compressed and you can have this springy action. I'd hang an implement on the 3 point, raise it up and physically pick up on it observing what's going on at your top link, maybe a wrap of electric tape on the cyl. rod to observe movement better. Bleeding the air is not too different than your brakes, but remember you have both sides of the cylinders along with the hoses.
Normally this air will work it's way out by cycling a few times, but I've had cylinders that have a built in check valve that takes hundreds of psi to open making bleeding interesting, then there's the possibility of similar "quirks" with the tractor valve and plumbing.

Thanks. I have tried something similar earlier in my post. My tests using a stick rake showed that the ram compressed when hoses were disconnected and 3 point hitch lowered to ground but the rake tines were grabbing on the concrete and I was having to lift the rake by hand in order to allow the ram to move. Not very good on my back. I will try the same test again today but this time will use a dolly under the rake but I will have the same question as before!! Is the movement air or fluid?? Also with bleeding, what’s the process for letting the air out if it’s air. Finally if I do manage to get the air out will I need to do this procedure again if I remove the top link for a while. Makes me wonder if I should stick to the tried and tested screw. Thanks all.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Thanks. I have tried something similar earlier in my post. My tests using a stick rake showed that the ram compressed when hoses were disconnected and 3 point hitch lowered to ground but the rake tines were grabbing on the concrete and I was having to lift the rake by hand in order to allow the ram to move. Not very good on my back. I will try the same test again today but this time will use a dolly under the rake but I will have the same question as before!! Is the movement air or fluid?? Also with bleeding, what’s the process for letting the air out if it’s air. Finally if I do manage to get the air out will I need to do this procedure again if I remove the top link for a while. Makes me wonder if I should stick to the tried and tested screw. Thanks all.

Note. I forgot to mention that when the stick rake is up in the air the top link moves in and out “ solid” there does not appear to be any sponginess and so doesn’t feel as though there’s any air in the cylinder.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #27  
If the cylinder moves with the hoses uncoupled slowly overnight type movement that's leakage within the cylinder. If the cylinder moves relatively freely back and forth with minimal force but displays elasticity that is air.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #28  
Pleasantly surprised this thread has not gone south.

If the cylinder is fully extended and no air in the system, I don't see how it could retract with hoses plugged even if the cylinder is bypassing internally. I would suggest cycling the cylinder with no weight to eliminate the possibility that it extends faster than the hydraulic pump can fill the cylinder.

My top link has always held pretty well.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #29  
I’m shocked it took this long before that was brought up.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Pleasantly surprised this thread has not gone south.

If the cylinder is fully extended and no air in the system, I don't see how it could retract with hoses plugged even if the cylinder is bypassing internally. I would suggest cycling the cylinder with no weight to eliminate the possibility that it extends faster than the hydraulic pump can fill the cylinder.

My top link has always held pretty well.

I cycled it again today nice and slow. I took it for a test run with a stick rake and the ram went in and out like a fiddlers elbow. I took it back and put the old screw type back on. I am running out of ways to try and bleed it.
 

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