rear lug nut torque

[Looking4new]

50 ftlb has gotta be wrong; even for fronts. I go 80 on the front lugs of the BX1500.
larry

I thought 50 was a tad low. My Jeep gets 85lb/ft
I am glad that I got prodded to dig farther into the manual. Now I just have to get a torque multiplyer for my 1/2" torque wrench.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I'm totally confused about the offset plates. What are they?
Have we come to any conclusion on the rear lug torque values?

The "wheel" is not one piece. It consists of a rim and disk. It's the disk that bolts up to the axle studs. The disk (aka offset plate) is offset between the hub and the circumference where it bolts to lugs on the rim. These lugs aren't centered on the rim, either. So by "flipping: the rim and/or the disk, there are four different possible rear tire spacing distances. This could matter if a specific distance is needed between the rear wheels, like for rows of agricultural plantings, to maximize stability, or to fit througha doorway. The bolts that attach the rim and disk are farther from the axle so the stress is less as is the required torque.

 

[newbury]

Don't you guys take this the wrong way, because I don't mind jumping in here to help someone out...but....For about the same cost as 2.5 gallons of fuel...you can own a repair/service manual. Then you won't have to wait a day or two for the correct answer to your questions to pop up......Hill Billy Bob

Wow! are manuals so cheap (or fuel so expensive) for the Kioti's?
The shop manual for my M4700 now costs $126 (about 30 gallons of fuel), the parts manual costs $33 and the little owners manual costs $25.

But what can be worse is getting the WRONG info from us giving FREE advice. Thousands of $$ for a tractor, no money for how to put it together and take it apart is a false economy.

<snip>This could matter if a specific distance is needed between the rear wheels, like for rows of agricultural plantings, to maximize stability, or to fit througha doorway. <snip>

Or to fit on a trailer 78" wide between the fenders when the wheels are at 80" wide

 

[chuck172]

The "wheel" is not one piece. It consists of a rim and disk. It's the disk that bolts up to the axle studs. The disk (aka offset plate) is offset between the hub and the circumference where it bolts to lugs on the rim. These lugs aren't centered on the rim, either. So by "flipping: the rim and/or the disk, there are four different possible rear tire spacing distances. This could matter if a specific distance is needed between the rear wheels, like for rows of agricultural plantings, to maximize stability, or to fit througha doorway. The bolts that attach the rim and disk are farther from the axle so the stress is less as is the required torque.

My rim is one piece.

 

[chuck172]

Don't you guys take this the wrong way, because I don't mind jumping in here to help someone out...but....For about the same cost as 2.5 gallons of fuel...you can own a repair/service manual. Then you won't have to wait a day or two for the correct answer to your questions to pop up......Hill Billy Bob

Have book in hand here Bob, problem being on page 10-14, book says 166.3 lbf-ft on page 50lbf-ft.

 

[Coyote machine]

Have book in hand here Bob, problem being on page 10-14, book says 166.3 lbf-ft on page 50lbf-ft.

Actually you have an owner's manual, not a service manual, which is better than nothing, but, IMHO one ought to spring for a Kioti service manual for more available info and as a resource for their expensive tractor(s). They run +/- $100 - well worth it, in my personal experience.

 

[chuck172]

I thought we all were refering to the owners manual that comes with the tractor.
I torqued the lugs to 50lbs, then upped it them to 65. Seemed pretty tight, I don't want to snap any. I guess maybe I should call Kioti and get an answer on this.

 

[k0ua]

Chuck I can assure you that 65 lbs for the rears are no where near enough. You will "egg" out your wheel holes and ruin them here is snip from the CK35 workshop supplement. It shows a bit more. But common sense tells you that 65 lbs is not enough for those large wheels. After you torque them, check again in a few hours, and at 25 hours for several cycles to insure all the paint is wore in and the lugs have settled in.

Personally I would torque them to 160 lbs. I base this on other tractors I have owned of similar size and the torque specs in their books. It would be good to call Kioti and see what they say. The 200+ sounds excessive to me, but I can assure you 65 is no where near enough.

 

[ritcheyvs]

My rim is one piece.

Your photo from your owners' manual (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/312538-rear-lug-nut-torque.html#post3778017 shows 2-piece wheels for agricultural tires and solid (1-piece) wheels for turf and industrial tires. Apparently, you have the later.

 

[JimRB]

Have you ever heard someone say it is not rocket science? Bolt torque has a few variables like grade of metal, size of bolt, size of nut or threaded material and dry or lubed. Plenty of torque charts out there. My JD owners manual that came with the tractor has a torque chart for bolts not explicitly listed so you know how tight to tighten that fender bolt or the bolt that attaches the cover to the transmission. What is apparent is some tractor manufacturers do not think the owners manual is that important otherwise they would get an experienced engineer fluent in English to proofread the document. Hopefully the service manual is accurate.

 

[JimRB]

At least you do not have torque to yield bolts. My car has those so when you are doing service like timing belts you need to know what bolts are one time use.

 

[RandyT]

The fronts on my 2005 DK45s is 144.7-166.4 lb-ft the rears are 191.7-224.2 lb-ft.

 

[Coyote machine]

I thought we all were refering to the owners manual that comes with the tractor.
I torqued the lugs to 50lbs, then upped it them to 65. Seemed pretty tight, I don't want to snap any. I guess maybe I should call Kioti and get an answer on this.

YOU'RE referencing the owner's manual, and it's conflicting torque specs. Clearly 65ft/lbs is NOT adequate for the rear wheels. Most cars get torqued to 85ft/lbs or more on average.
Hill Billy Bob and I are recommending any owner of an expensive tractor buy a service manual to have the best and likely most accurate data available. There are occasional misprints, errors, etc. but they are relatively rare and usually someone here knows the facts Jack.

 

[IXLR8]

Seems to me there was a thread here several years ago that somebody with a CK30 had a manual with conflicting torque settings. They torqued to the higher, >200 ft-lbs, and they broke several of the studs. Seems they should have been torqued to something in the 160 ft-lb range. I can't find the thread now.

EDIT- I found several old threads, 2009-10 time frame, where the manuals for the CK series were listed at 290 ft-lbs for the front and 50 ft-lbs for the rear. Needless to say folks were breaking/stripping out the front studs. After much discussion and research it was posted that it was 50 ft-lbs for the front and 209 ft-lbs for the rear.

 

[PoorPlowboy]

Don't you guys take this the wrong way, because I don't mind jumping in here to help someone out...but....For about the same cost as 2.5 gallons of fuel...you can own a repair/service manual. Then you won't have to wait a day or two for the correct answer to your questions to pop up......Hill Billy Bob

How is it any better if written by the same Engrish speakers?

 

[PoorPlowboy]

Seems to me there was a thread here several years ago that somebody with a CK30 had a manual with conflicting torque settings. They torqued to the higher, >200 ft-lbs, and they broke several of the studs. Seems they should have been torqued to something in the 160 ft-lb range. I can't find the thread now.

EDIT- I found several old threads, 2009-10 time frame, where the manuals for the CK series were listed at 290 ft-lbs for the front and 50 ft-lbs for the rear. Needless to say folks were breaking/stripping out the front studs. After much discussion and research it was posted that it was 50 ft-lbs for the front and 209 ft-lbs for the rear.

Did Kioti spend any money warrantying those mislead by the faulty data?

 

[PoorPlowboy]

At least you do not have torque to yield bolts. My car has those so when you are doing service like timing belts you need to know what bolts are one time use.

Everyone uses TTY fasteners. No one uses them for wheel studs.