Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice

   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #101  
I have a few questions for anyone willing to help. I am planning to install 3rd function remote on the frontend for a grapple and 3 to 4 rear remotes for top n tilt and to apply down pressure for my post hole digger. We have rocky ground in Arkansas and regular diggers just spin on the surface. It takes down pressure from a ram and a rock bit to stay out of the frustration zone.

My tractor is a 1989 Kubota L3240HST. I read on the internet that it has 8.3 gpm pump flow and 13.2 gpm total flow. Should I build the system for 8.3 gpm or 13.2 gpm? I already have a solenoid valve divertor for the 3rd function that I cannot find on the Surplus Center website anymore. It is a big gold block about 4 x 5 inches with a couple of solenoids on top and 4 to 6 ports (I don't remember). I may need to buy another one scaled to my flow rate if this one is over rated or under rated.

Should I tap into the Power Beyond at the quick couplers of the FEL or under the fender and inside the rear tire where the hard lines run into the transaxle for the 3 point lift? Is the Power Beyond line the one labeled with the blue color and that runs higher or on top of the other lines?

Thank you for your assistance.

Buddy
 
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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #102  
8.3 flow because remainder of flow is dedicated to power steering.
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #103  
I have a few questions for anyone willing to help. I am planning to install 3rd function remote on the frontend for a grapple and 3 to 4 rear remotes for top n tilt and to apply down pressure for my post hole digger. We have rocky ground in Arkansas and regular diggers just spin on the surface. It takes down pressure from a ram and a rock bit to stay out of the frustration zone.

Mty tractor is a 1989 Kubota L3240HST. I read on the internet that it has 8.3 gpm pump flow and 13.2 gpm total flow. Should I build the system for 8.3 gpm or 13.2 gpm? I already have a solenoid valve divertor for the 3rd function that I cannot find on the Surplus Center website anymore. It is a big gold block about 4 x 5 inches with a couple of solenoids on top and 4 to 6 ports (I don't remember). I may need to buy another one scaled to my flow rate if this one is over rated or under rated.

Should I tap into the Power Beyond at the quick couplers of the FEL or under the fender and inside the rear tire where the hard lines run into the transaxle for the 3 point lift? Is the Power Beyond line the one labeled with the blue color and that runs higher or on top of the other lines?

Thank you for your assistance.

Buddy


On my L3200 I tapped into the distribution block under my right foot for power beyond & the return to tank. It's after the loader on the power beyond circuit, but before the 3pt. I'm guessing your slightly older Grand might be setup similarly. If not, tap the power beyond as it comes out of your loader valve. On my tractor the loader valve is mounted to the tractor, not the loader. I disconnect the 4 hoses coming out of the valve to remove the loader. Typically they don't put quick disconnects on the power beyond circuit, as if they ever come undone, you'll deadhead the pump & either blow up the pump, or the relief valve will quickly overheat your oil & transmission.

I believe there is a flow divider that splits off flow to the steering, so that is a totally separate circuit & not relevant for the rest of your power beyond flow. That leaves you with 9ish GPM to deal with. If you build your system to handle 14ish GPM, you will have marginally less restrictions & back pressure in it as well as possibly costing a bit more for bigger parts. The only big downside is the lack of feathering. With a properly sized valve, moving it half way in theory gives you about half the flow & your implement moves at half speed. If you have an oversized valve moving the valve half way would result in full flow, limiting your ability to do precision work. You mentioned diverters though, which are on/off valves & lack any feathering ability at all, so that may be a moot problem. With a diverter, you usually have 1 properly sized featherable valve & just switch between the outlets with the diverter.
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #104  
I really appreciate reading the reply posts by Fallon, Tx Jim and JJ. Since my first post here I went back and researched all the articles in this thread (all 11 pages!). I learned a lot and the voodoo monster of the mysterious world of hydraulics started to fade. But not quite yet. I read in a post by JJ that he writes clearly to help readers from all backgrounds to understand his advice. At that point I realized my questions were not formed well and thus I only found partial answers so far. So I have created this long discussion that include images to restate my request.
But before I get into my recast questions, I have a cyber disaster to share with you all. My professional and private lives have been a cascade of weird and catastrophic events. Is it because we have progressed in our technology that we have outstripped our ability to manage viruses, scams, phishing, spying, and all other kinds of cyber shenanigans? Or is it a benign cause, we have just run off and have so many new technologies we can no longer keep up with them? The Federal government, Sony and other major players have had their websites invaded almost at will. My issue this morning began when I got up at 4:30 AM and started this long post on my pad. I don’t type. It is all hunt and peck. Right before I went to post my lengthy and hard-won writings on the forum, I opened another window to insert in the links to my photos on Photobucket. When I returned to the forum after only 5 minutes to paste in my links it was gone!!!! I decided to rewrite the whole thing on my laptop and cut and paste the text into the forum. So after a while I resumed my quest but this time on a laptop with a full keyboard in MS Word and saves about every 10 seconds. However, when I powered up the Word program my McAfee virus control popped up on the screen and had me shutdown and log off because of a Trojan horse virus. Photobucket went into my smart phone and grabbed all my personal photos and videos and loaded them on their site. Some of which I would not want my mother, my wife or my employer to see or to particularly to hear/see the videos! It took me an hour to figure out how to delete them all. So after that reboot here I am back at the task at hand.
Back to my questions and this thread. In my first post I wrote that the diverter/solenoid valve I bought on Surplus Supply over 6 years ago was not on their website anymore. I was wrong. I found it on their site and a couple photos (e.g., Photos 1 and 2) of it are attached. Each photo has a caption and a description in Photobucket that relates to my questions. My tractor is in Arkansas 6-hours drive away and I am in Mississippi, so these photos are all I can post at this time. But to reemphasize my questions I will also list them in this post by number.
1. Is my diverter actually a solenoid or both? Is it a “diverter/solenoid”?

2. Should I install a needle valve to allow feathering before or after the diverter/solenoid?

3. I bought this diverter/solenoid about 6 years ago when I knew less about hydraulics than I do now. Was I lucky or what? It is a 15 GPM unit, Model 9-5117 and my Kubota system is an 8.2 GPM. Any concerns there? They do sell one with less flow. Model 9-5117-A with 6 GPM for the same price. If needed they might exchange it.

4. There are two solenoids on the diverter/solenoid. Did I buy 2 x what I needed? Is each solenoid to control 2 separate functions? Is this similar to the two spool joysticks found on the internet?

5. On the block of the divertor/solenoid there are markings by each port; as follows: on the back side it has two ports, VE and VR. Does the E stand for entry and the R stand for Return? What does the V stand for? On the front face it has 4 ports; 1E, 2E, 1R and 2R. Any insight into these markings?

6. As stated before my goal is to have at least 4 remotes in the back and a “3rd function” in the front for a grapple. I also am looking into a Joystick controller sited between the operator’s seat and the fender. That could run two functions, right? Like top/tilt? In a sense it is like my diverter/solenoid except it will allow for feathering and other advantages? So I could have it run 2 of my remotes, so there would be two less valves to buy and install on the fender? I am still researching the idea of a joystick, as they about $300 on Surplus Center for a 2-spool joystick and $200 on Ebay. But I am not sure they both are equivalent as the Ebay unit ad does not indicate it is 2-spools. They could be only single function joysticks.

7. You will see some more photos (Numbers 3 and 4) that show the FEL quick connects. They are color coded by the dust covers; blue, red, white and yellow. I read a post on this forum about a smaller Kubota tractor that had the same color taped onto their FEL couplers and they said their blue color was the Power Beyond. Is the L3240 coded the same way? I have a Kubota L3240 Service Manual I got a pdf download from EBay for $9.99. It has poor resolution and is blurry on zooming in. It is also not color. So it is not much use. I guess I should spring for the print copy for $150.00+. I also cannot find the term “Power Beyond” in the manual. Does Kubota use another term for Power Beyond?

8. The next set of photos, 5-8, are of where my hydraulic lines go into the transaxle/3 point system. One photo has a very tempting plug that hopefully could be used as the site of the return oil line or the source of the Power Beyond circuit? If you would please indicate which line one is the Power Beyond and which is the return flow to the “tank” in these photos. Fallon wrote he had a junction in his lines under his foot about half way. I could not find any junctions on my L3240. It was 4 solid steel lines from the disconnect at the FEL until the transaxle.

9. Where should I tie into my hydraulic system; (1) at the FEL disconnects; or (2) at the transaxle ends of the solid lines, or (3) cut into my hard lines anywhere, and put in a “T”?

10. I plan as suggested here to build my brackets for all my valves and controls and mount them to measure for the flow lines. I understand there are hose makers on the forum that are reasonable. There is also a hydraulic hose builder in Mountain Home, AR that is very reasonable. I will comparison shop when I get my specifications. I plan to use as advised all JIC fittings as allowable. I think I will have one valve body with a detent for a log splitter and the rest open, but I need to do more research to decide on SV, power beyond, etc.. Need to go back to the forum! I like the mounting of the QDC fittings on the roll bar rather than the fender but still pondering it.

11. Lastly, what size hoses should I have built? I believe most of the ports will be SAE 8 and my flow will be 8.3 GPH. I understand the smaller diameter hose is cheaper but if not matched to your system it can cause overheating of oil and other issues. Larger diameter hoses should make it run cooler, but cost more. I am inclined to pay more for less problems down the road. So the question is should I buy ¼, 3/8, or ½ inch hoses? (my computer won’t let me change the font on 3/8!! Like I wrote earlier! They are inside my head!).
So you can read I have been studying the forum threads, even picking up some of the lingo and maybe the mental illnesses. But this is like building your first house (or having one built), you most likely will never do it again.
I guess my primary question is where are my PB and return flow lines so I don’t hack into it. Your time and attention to my questions is greatly appreciated.
I just came off a traumatic experience converting my generator over to propane. That is another extremely tumultuous adventure best left for another thread.
Contact me by email, forum, phone or text

Buddy
337-257-4813
Mobile Uploads by dirtpiranha | Photobucket
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #105  
Your valve is a diverter valve actuated by two solenoids.

A diverter valve will allow you to select a cyl pair. You need a valve connected to the diverter to control the selected cyls.

A diverter will interrupt the flow to the bucket cyls and route the flow to the grapple cyl.

To use, say a grapple, you would select the grapple cyl. To use bucket tilt, you select bucket cyl.

You can not tee into a series flow path.

Here is the hookup for the valve you have.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/i9-5117-a.pdf

Long hose runs can use 3/8 hose, and cyl hookup can use 1/4 in hose

I don't see a PB outlet.

Pipe #60 feeds the loader valve, and pipe #10 from loader valve feeds the 3pt.

You may have to cut hard line #10 and insert the valve in series using compression fittings.

You may want a 3rd function valve which is solenoid operated to operate a remote valve. Either on or off with full flow.
 
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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #106  
Your valve is a diverter valve actuated by two solenoids.

A diverter valve will allow you to select a cyl pair. You need a valve connected to the diverter to control the selected cyls.

A diverter will interrupt the flow to the bucket cyls and route the flow to the grapple cyl.

To use, say a grapple, you would select the grapple cyl. To use bucket tilt, you select bucket cyl.

You can not tee into a series flow path.

Here is the hookup for the valve you have.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/i9-5117-a.pdf

Long hose runs can use 3/8 hose, and cyl hookup can use 1/4 in hose

I don't see a PB outlet.

Pipe #60 feeds the loader valve, and pipe #10 from loader valve feeds the 3pt.

You may have to cut hard line #10 and insert the valve in series using compression fittings.

You may want a 3rd function valve which is solenoid operated to operate a remote valve. Either on or off with full flow.

(2) JJ, thanks much useful info in your reply. But I still do not know which of the lines in my photos I should tap into for Power Beyond and return flow lines. I understand you about not tapping in with "T" connection thereby making it a parallel circuit and not a series circuit. Can you describe which are which in the images or copy the images and write on them and send them back? Sorry if I sound stupid.

You wrote: "Pipe #60 feeds the loader valve, and pipe #10 from loader valve feeds the 3pt." How are those numbers defined? What do they mean? Are they from the Kubota Service manual?

Thank you

Buddy
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #107  
If you go to the Kubota website, and download the pdf for your tractor, you will see that pipe #60 comes from the pump and goes to the IN port to the loader valve.

Pipe #10 goes from the out port of the loader valve to the 3pt input.

If you cut pipe #10, the pipe from the loader valve will feed the IN port of the new valve.

If your new valve has a PB port, then the PB port will feed the 3pt.

The tank port of the new remote valve will go to tank/return port.
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #108  
Do you have the link for that Kubota website with pdf for a L3240HST? Every Kubota website that I find does not have any pdfs. They just try to sell me tractors.
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #109  

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