Ballast Rear Weights

[ThisldooFarm]

I have a B7800 with FEL. I do not have tires loaded on advice of dealer. What is out there for rear weighting for FEL balance? Weight boxes? How much weight? Does anyone have plans for the farmer's concrete filled barrel? Any ideas. I would like to use the 3 point hitch, and have it easily removable when not needed. Thanks

 

[Inspector507]

Welcome to TBN
The easiest rear weight is a box blade, even if you don't need one. Can add 3-500lbs in an instant. Others have made rear weights, but the box blade is dual purpose /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ronjhall]

ThisldooFarm
Welcome to TBN. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

<font color="orange"> Kubota </font> makes a weight box. B8160.

I have one for my B2910 that I modified to have a receiver hitch for moving my trailer and chipper.

I have attached a picture.

I also use my other attachments for counter weight. However, the weight box is small and does not restrict movement of the tractor in tight places.

My weight box is filled with marble chips and paver bricks I had leftover from a landscaping project. Its total weight is more than my Land Pride Box Blade.

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

I hear pros and cons about weights and loaded tires. It's a matter of preference I guess. I have seen loaded tires rot out the rims on lots of trcators, wheel weights can be a pain to attach. I have a double stack on my Cub Cadet and a single stack on my Farmall 200. A box blade is a great weight, but can get in the way if you are working in tight quarters. I bought (4) 62lb weights 2 years ago for about $200 or so. I still need the weight box full of rocks to use the loader efficiently, but the wheel weights are good enough for hauling a wagon with an empty bucket.

 

[markie61]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( wheel weights can be a pain to attach )</font>

Try EZ Weights - VERY easy off and on. And much cheaper. I added 200 lbs per wheel. Since you are using barbell plates, they are broken into 50lb increments.

Picture attached.

Mark

PS Not selling them - just a satisfied customer.

 

[normde2001]

I would go with the boxblade. If you need a tractor you can always use a boxblade at some point. They are fairly cheap, (I got a great 5' for $224), don't take up much more space on your tractor or in your garage than a totally useless, except for weight, weightbox. I would also hang it from checkchains to take the pressure off your hydraulics when only using it as weight. You can also load it with concrete blocks if more weight is needed.

 

[bebster]

That is a great idea! I'd like to do that to my ballast box. Did you weld the receiver tube onto the surface of the box, and is there any reinforcement inside? It would seem to me that the back panel on the box might tend to bend under load on the hitch.

 

[ronjhall]

bebster
I put a couple of gussets from the receiver tube to the bottom of the box. The tube is long enough to pass through the front and rear walls of the box.

I have not seen any problems with the box bending since I put the receiver tube in last fall.

Having a hitch in the weight box. Means that I never have to remove the weight box unless I want to install another attachment.

Both of my trailers are less than 1500 lbs. They are kept inside a buildings out of the weather. It is a lot easier to put them away with the tractor then with the truck.

 

[accordionman]

HELLO TO ALL,
i used the "HACKERS" plan. it is a round plate bolted to the inside
of the wheel, and has a threaded rod welded to the center. i bought
25lb weights from walmart for $10.00 each. i have six on each side.
total of 300lbs. if i would have made the threaded rod longer, i could
have put two more 25lbs on each side, and i am sorry i did not do this.
but my L3000DT handles much better since i added the weight.
good luck with your projects.
accordionman
william l. brown
wright city, mo.

 

[ThisldooFarm]

Thanks for all your advice and help.
Thisldoo Farm