rear wheel for brush hog

defed · Apr 23, 2010

i have a brush hog that came w/ my old tractor. the 3 pt had been modified and the rear wheel was gone.

i have viewed the original types of wheel assemblies here:

Brush Hog - Tractor Bush Hog, Field Mower, Rotary Cutter, Agricutter, Brush Cutter

the top left (single wheel, a-frame) is presumably original, but looks pretty weak, especially if backing into something. the one on the top right (dual wheel) looks like overkill for a medium duty cutter.

i was debating if i should use the top right style but w/ a single wheel in the middle instead of 2 wheels.

if anyone has some pics of various styles or ideas, please post.

thanks.

MMagis · Apr 23, 2010

Single rear wheel is fine. If you hit something hard enough to damage it, you've likely damaged something else more important as well.

defed · Apr 23, 2010

i understand if i hit a tree, anything could break. but backing into some 1" diameter dogwoods,for example, seems like the single wheel type might be prone to fail (flex side to side). looks fine for just weed mowing, but is it still beefy enough for courser material?

i guess it's the single anchor point where you adjust height that bothers me. i could make the a-frame and just make that point better.

thanks.

MMagis · Apr 23, 2010

defed said:
i understand if i hit a tree, anything could break. but backing into some 1" diameter dogwoods,for example, seems like the single wheel type might be prone to fail (flex side to side). looks fine for just weed mowing, but is it still beefy enough for courser material?

i guess it's the single anchor point where you adjust height that bothers me. i could make the a-frame and just make that point better.

thanks.

If a 1" dogwood hurts that, it was about to fall apart already.

Unless you plan to be backing into large trees, I think you're worrying too much. I use mine MUCH harder than most people and it's still just fine. It's not a King Kutter, but it only has the single tail wheel.

Ford850 · Apr 23, 2010

The steel is thick on those supports. I've bulldozed over trees at least 2" in reverse many times with no problems.

defed · Apr 23, 2010

do you guys happen to know the dimensions of the steel used? i guess from the pics, i just got the impression that they weren't that heavy. thinking about it more, i'm not as concerned about knocking stuff down as much as the lateral forces on the wheel when cutting into some rough stuff and the whole cutter is bouncing up and down and side to side. that small upright supporting the a-frame just seems not sturdy enough for that.

the current wheel, i added in a hurry a couple of years ago just so i could use it. the mount on the deck and the mount on the wheel are joined together w/ 2 pieces of 3" x 3/16" channel, bolted back to back. after some years of heavy use, the channel is ripping apart down the center. that's the only reason i was concerned about the strength of the a-frame.

but, if you guys say it is good, i can make it. in fact, i probably don't have any flat stock long enough, so i'll probably use square tube or angle, which will probably make it even stronger.

Soundguy · Apr 29, 2010

defed said:
i understand if i hit a tree, anything could break. but backing into some 1" diameter dogwoods,for example, seems like the single wheel type might be prone to fail (flex side to side). looks fine for just weed mowing, but is it still beefy enough for courser material?

i guess it's the single anchor point where you adjust height that bothers me. i could make the a-frame and just make that point better.

thanks.

I have a kk with single wheel.. have never hurt it hitting things yet.

soundguy

defed · Apr 29, 2010

i scrounged up some parts for a wheel height adjustment setup from an old crimper. it is the same as the one that is used on my grandfather's heavy duty tow behind brush hog. i will have to modify it, mostly just cutting it to length, and add an arm to attach my swivel wheel. it will adjust height via a ratcheting turnbuckle.

lostcause · Apr 29, 2010

you mentioned that the 3ph had been modified too. make sure that whatever you put it back to includes a pivot between the mower and your tractor's top link bar. this is what allows the mower to tip up (when the back wheel makes contact with the ground). if your top link goes directly between the tractor and mower with no other pivot, you're likely to bend or break something. if i don't make sense, take a close up look at the 3ph top connection on a new mower.