rear wheel for brush hog

[defed]

the round "axle" was salvaged from an old hay crimper. i need to make some stops to keep it from sliding side to side. i left it long in case i ever want to put dual swivels instead of the one in the center.

when i get everything set in position, i will probably add gussets to the support arm to stiffen it to side to side movement.

 

[FlaDon]

Having the trailing wheel change the angle is common on a 3-pt hitch mower. They all swivel to the front and raise the rear of the deck in the process. It actually helps keep the rear from digging in when backing.

 

[defed]

but by how much? the ones i looked at were closer to vertical on the swivel spindle (like the pic i added in post #13). mine will raise 3" or so, which seems like alot. i don't like the fact that the wheel bracket is nearly vertical in the reverse position either.

 

[FlaDon]

but by how much? the ones i looked at were closer to vertical on the swivel spindle (like the pic i added in post #13). mine will raise 3" or so, which seems like alot. i don't like the fact that the wheel bracket is nearly vertical in the reverse position either.

That varies by make. They angle them so the wheel stays clear of the supports. Otherwise, the shaft would have to be longer or the forks longer to keep the wheel clear. Both of which would make the tailwheel assembly weaker. It basically is a tradeoff with the advantage of the rear of the deck not digging in in reverse. You could always build a 4-link setup but that would add to the cost.

 

[defed]

finished the wheel. basically the same as the previous pictures, but changed the angle of the swivel to be closer to vertical when in cutting position, and added some angle iron gussets from the 2x3 arm to the 3" round axle.

made up a quick flex link, but i think i have to modify it. the current top link bracket hole is already in line w/ the lower lift pins. i think the flex link should be in line w/ the pins, so now it sticks out too far. still seems to work, but the geometry is off.

 

[Chilly807]

made up a quick flex link, but i think i have to modify it. the current top link bracket hole is already in line w/ the lower lift pins. i think the flex link should be in line w/ the pins, so now it sticks out too far. still seems to work, but the geometry is off.

A piece of chain works well for a flex link, allows the mower to float over high spots but still lifts it too. With a mower, the only load is tension, you don't want/need compression strength.

Chilly

 

[soulasphil]

I wish I were as good as you all are to add wheels like that! But I'm missing the whole point of having wheels at the back of a bush hog. I've been using my 5 foot bush hog for over 15 years without back wheels and still don't need them.
The implement isn't so heavy that the tractor cannot hold it above the ground most of the time. By turning the pins on the lift arms 90 ° you allow the implement to lift when the reinforced sides touch the dirt, so that it doesn't make a rut. The chains supporting the rear give flexibility. This should be much more efficient than wheels getting cought in holes or roots. What am I missing ?

 

[defed]

i had been using it for a couple of years w/o a rear wheel also. it DID work. tractor has no trouble holding the mower up. but w/o a wheel, it doesn't follow the contour of the ground properly. if the rear tractor wheels fall into a rut, the mower bottoms out on its side rails. if the rear tractor wheels go up on a mound, the rear of the mower raises way up as well.

the rear wheel and floating 3pt link allow the mower to maintain a more consistent cut height. i usually run the front (with the lift arms) lower to the ground than the rear. the rear height is adjusted w/ the wheel.

 

[sal64]

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[defed]

how do those fixed front wheels work w/ the 3 point? i figured they would have to swivel if it wasn't a tow behind. at one time, i was going to add more wheels and a floating hitch like my 3pt finish mower, but i never did.