Backhoe Reattaching Backhoe Hyd. Hoses to Tractor

[Bucky4]

OK, what's the correct position to leave a backhoe (subframe mount) after removing it from the tractor and BEFORE disconnecting the hydraulic hoses?????

I've tried numerous positions and I still have to bleed the hoe cylinders to release pressure before I'm able to insert the hoe hoses back into the tractor system. I don't have a manual so this has been trial and error for me -- all error!

I've been able to connect/disconnect the hoe from the subframe in a minute or two, but the hose problem has me freakin' out!!! This isn't rocket science, but I am surely missing something here. HELP!

Thanks,

bucky4

 

[pekabu]

I have a NH, but the only problem I have ever had is when I have tried hooking up the hoses with the tractor running.

 

[PineRidge]

To park my NH backhoe first I lower the stabilizers. I then curl the bucket and use it to support the boom, pull the pins and top-link and slightly pull away from it without stretching the hydraulic hoses. I then lower it to the ground using the tractor hydraulics. I tie the two raised stabilizers together in the up position. I then shut down the tractor and work all the backhoe controls to equalize the pressure in the hydraulic circuit. (If its going to move you will see it happen here and if you don't like the way it rests you can always fire the tractor back up and do some repositioning) Last I disconnect the quick connects and you are finished.

 

[RobS]

Exactly what Mike said! I cut a length of small chain with a hook on each end to hold the stabilizers up. Mine tend to drift downward. Because mine stays outside when it's off, I keep the bucket facing downward to keep water from collecting /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[CTyler]

I curl the bucket so it will sit flat and stay there. Drop the boom down so the dipper is about straight up/down. Put blocks down so settle the BH frame onto. Use the stabilizers to lift it up and drive the tractor out. Set the BH on the blocks by raising the stabs.

Its' easier to remove all the pressure by turning of the tractor and moving one or more BH controls. I just push the stabilzer control. Never have any problems. With the tractor running leave the stabs up some before disconnecting the hoses. This way the pressure(fluid) has some place to go later.

If you don't set it on blocks or the ground your going to keep pressure in the system. You can also develop pressure from the sun heating things up. If you leave the stabilzers up or just sitting on the ground(no pressure) then you can push the control to drop them releiving the pressure. Otherwise you'll be putting a rag over the quick connect and tapping it on something.

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> can also develop pressure from the sun heating things up. </font>
My hydraullic pressure testing gauge is pigtailed into the main high pressure line of my backhoe most all the time. It is set up so I can monitor the pressure when working the BH (just for fun). When disconnecting the backhoe I always check to see that the gauge is at zero. On a hot day, I've seen the pressure register 500+ psi, then drop off to zero in the evening. Even with much less pressure than that, I can't make the quick connects couple together.

If high pressure in the backhoe circuit is due to a hot day, dousing the cylinders with a water hose works wonders. Within a minute or so, the pressure can drop right down to where the fittings can be connected.

OkieG

 

[JerryG]

All cylinders fully retracted, except the boom cylinder. (the one you are looking at when you first get in the seat) The boom should be fully extended. Before you disconnect the hoses, turn the tractor off and move all of the control sticks. That will give you neutral pressure. Then disconnect the hoses. As Mike said, it is a good idea to tie the stabilizer pads together.

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> All cylinders fully retracted, except the boom cylinder. (the one you are looking at when you first get in the seat) The boom should be fully extended </font>

Jerry,

If I visualize your description right, the BH is basically stretched out flat on the ground, except for the stabilizers which are up and tied together. That should work fine. The ground doesn't allow anything to move and generate pressure in the system.

There's not enough storage space for me to stretch the BH out flat on the ground. For a shorter footprint, I keep the boom up, but put the transport pin in place so the boom can't drift down. With boom pinned and bucket fully extended, I draw back the dipperstick until bucket teeth just touch the ground. Stabilizers are flat on the ground. Then, with the tractor engine off, I relieve line pressure by moving the valves before disconnecting hoses. Other than hot days, no problems so far.

OkieG

 

[AndyMA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( All cylinders fully retracted, except the boom cylinder. (the one you are looking at when you first get in the seat) The boom should be fully extended. Before you disconnect the hoses, turn the tractor off and move all of the control sticks. That will give you neutral pressure. Then disconnect the hoses. As Mike said, it is a good idea to tie the stabilizer pads together. )</font>

I'm curious, why would you want the stabilizers up when you store it. I always store mine with the stabilizers down to keep the backhoe stable. The manual on my JD, NH and now Woods backhoe say to do it this way. Storing with the stabilizers up puts the backhoe in an unstable position likely to fall over. As far as the pressure thing on the hoses. I just wiggle all the controls ont he loader and the backhoe and have never had any trouble.

Andy

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue">I'm curious, why would you want the stabilizers up when you store it.</font>
By doing it this way, all of the cylinders are protected except one. My hoe is stable, doing it this way. I am sure if it was set on blocks that most hoes would be stable in this position.

 

[txdon]

<font color="blue">"I don't have a manual..." </font>

Bucky4, I have yet to detach my BH90 however I do have the manual:

engine at speed idle
flat level hard surface

1. Set the swing lock pin to prevent the pivoting of the boom before removing the backhoe.
2. Stand beside the rear tire, fully close the dipperstick, curl the bucket and lower the boom until the back of bucket contacts the ground.
3. Keep the stabilizer pads at about 15 inches high.
4. Raise the rear wheels slightly with the boom and remove the mounting pins.
5. Slowly raise the boom to disengage the backhoe from the tractor.
6. Raise the backhoe by operating the stabilizers to the lowering direction until the mount bars hit the guide stopper on the support hooks.
7. Move the tractor forward from the backhoe about 8 inches. Be careful not to damage or break the hoses when moving the tractor.
8. Lower the main frame and swing frame on to the ground by operating the boom and stabilizer control levers.
9. Shut off engine and set the parking brake.
10. Slowly release all hydraulic pressure by moving the backhoe hydraulic control levers in all directions.
11. Disconnect hydraulic hoses on the following manner: (1.) Disconnect the inlet and outlet from the tractor. (2.) Connect tractor's outlet hose to the coupler of return hose.
12. Restart the engine. Then drive the tractor/loader slowly away from the backhoe.
13. Shut off the engine and remove the key from the tractor. Set the parking brake.

Apply a coat of grease to all exposed cylinder rods to prevent rusting. When storing backhoe, install the dust caps onto the backhoe's hydraulic nipples to prevent contamination.

I'll be taking mine off next week, let me know if you see a problem with the manual's steps. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Bucky4]

Thanks to all for the advice. I will definitely give the suggestions a try the next time I remove the hoe. As I said earlier, I can get the hoe disconnected in a snap, but the line pressure in reconnecting it is making me say bad words! (No, not really, but it is frustrating!!)

Thanks again,

bucky4