Rebuilding engine on MF-135

[KubotaSteve]

Dad finally decided he is going to tear down his old MF-135 and rebuild the motor as the plugs keep fouling out so bad and it doesn't have the power it should. He tried using the sleeves but they didn't help.
Anyone have any tips or suggestions on this project? It is the 3 cylinder gas which I think he said was the perkins gas. He seems to think it needs new rings.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. We are just beginning to take off all the sheet metal.

 

[gamble77]

If you put just rings on it they will not seat properly. Can't tell you how many of those things we have done over the years and we have stopped putting just rings in them because they work fine for about 50 hours and then the motor starts smoking and then we have to get back into them.

Customers always want to save a little $$ by putting just rings in them, but I suggest getting a piston ring sleeve kit like from an aftermarket company like Tisco, A&I, etc. Good luck with the project, let me know if I can help any other way.

 

[KubotaSteve]

Thanks for the tip on the piston ring sleeve kit. I told my dad about it and he has been tearing down the tractor today and had a couple of questions.
1. Is there any special tool or trick to take the old sleeves out?
2. Is there any special information you need when ordering the piston ring sleeve kit? (trying to get his ducks in a row)
3. What all comes with the piston ring sleeve kit and what do they generally run?
Thanks again for all your help.

 

[Pilot]

Contact Big Dean with your questions, he's the MF expert:

http://hometown.aol.com/daustin62/Bigdeantipindex.html

 

[Birdhunter1]

Those rings are seated by heat, as soon as they're rebuilt they shoudl have a plow hooked to them and plow up a few acres. Rings are now seated!

 

[gamble77]

So one would think...has something to do with the new rings not wanting to seat with the old sleeves. Common knowledge tells us just rings will work, actual experience tells me otherwise...

 

[JerryG]

It is always better to do a sleeve kit. But, if your dad doesn't want to replace the sleeves, he needs to mike the bore top to the bottom to make sure it is in spec and then rough the bore like you would do a non sleeved engine. If the spec is out and the bore is not roughed, the rings won't have a chance of seating properly or maybe I should say very little chance.

 

[KubotaSteve]

Just an update, dad has the engine torn down and is now working on getting the sleeves out. Good thing its only a 3 cylinder /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. He went to visit the old guy who rebuilt his carb. yesterday. The old guy told him to have fun with the sleeves.
However with Birdhunter's comment about plowing several acres after the rebuild, it left me a little confused. I always thought you were to suppose to break the engine rebuild in gently? Should he change the oil after 50 hours like you would with a new motor?
Thanks again for everyones help.

 

[Gator6x4]

A gentleman that used to rebuild tractors engines in my area years ago would place the sleeves in the freezer for a couple of days prior to installation. He said it would shrink the sleeves some and make for easier installation. He also had a device that replaced the crankshaft and pulled the sleeves down into the block. The sleeves will break or crack some times when being driven in. Another option would to be locate a good machine shop, have them drill the old sleeves out and press the new ones in. A machine shop cold also check the top of the block and head for warpage. The engine has gone through several heat cycles in it's life span. I would suspect some warpage has occurred.

 

[gamble77]

Not with tractors, break them in hard, especially those older diesels.