Rebuilding the cylinder on my hoe stick

[hobbyfarm]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Even with the hydralic lines off and no oil preasure, I couldn't pull the piston out. Just too heavy, so I attached a come-along to pull it out. )</font>

Eddie,
Why not use hydraulic power to get the piston out? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif and save all that effort...

Don't tell me you've tried it already....alright what'd you break when it went flying? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Ronbo]

I had to rebuild the cyliner on my hoist. I just placed the cylinder in the FEL bucket and put the rod on some blocks against the hoist. I then pushed with the tractor and it slid right in.

Ron

 

[Ronbo]

I too used pressure. Air pressure will not work on a large cylinder. It compresses too much. Hydralic oil is great. It just starts coming out and when it reaches the end, all the pressure is relieved at once. It does not come flying out. It just slides out and lays down. I tried to do it over a bucket, but still had a lot of oil on the graound.

Ron

 

[Highbeam]

A few things. I had a dozer so got to deal with a few of these leaky cylinders. I found a guy. A guy with a tarp building in his back yard, the dirt floor was soaked with oil everywhere. He would repack the rams for garbage trucks, equipment, tractors, whatever, I had to watch out for his dogs.

I watched him do several and he showed me that there are many different styles of end cap so the case style shown may be different. Some have wire retainers, some actually have a hex nut cast into the cap.

He had a wall full of seals on a pin board. Seems these things are somewhat universal.

He would hone each cylinder with a device similar to an engine hone with three stones. The drill had a long extension because some of these cyclinders are really big and long.

One of my rams had a bent rod too that he replaced.

If you can find a guy that's great. If you can get the right seals then you can try it. I rather enjoyed watching the guy do it and he hardly charged anything.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Thanks Eddy for the pics. Guess you weren't watching too much TV that day! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

An aquaintance of mine has a big hydraulic shop in my hometown. He doesn't just make a living, he makes a KILLING.!!! He started a machine shop to make parts to fix the hydraulics.

Next time I talk to him, I'll ask about repairing the hydraulic motors in your dozer.

A knicked rod will blow the seal in the cap. I think if your rod has knicks, they can chrome plate it up and re-grind it back down if needed.

 

[markct]

i like that spanner wrench for the cylinder caps, i have seen them in the mac tools catalog and have always been saying i should buy one. i have rebuilt alot of cylinders at home and at work, and have usualy just torched out a wrench and put pins in it, or cut a hex in it for tho ones with a hex cap, or some simply use a chain wrench. the first hydraulic cylinder i ever rebuilt was on a cat 950 loader, the top one for the bucket curl, i was 17 at the time, i remember the nut on the end of the rod that held the piston on was 3 1/2 inch, it was so tight that 4 guys pulling a 15 ft pipe couldnt budge it, finaly it took some pressure and pounding on a slugging wrench i cut from 1 inch plate to loosen it. that nut on the end can take some pretty big tools even on a modest cylinder, luckly i have sockets up to 3 inch at home. 2 inch is the upper size of most 3/4 drive sets, if i were you i would look into gettin a 3/4 drive set, sooner or later ya will need another few sizes. the chinese sets are pretty good for the money, just throw out the ratchet and breaker bar that come with them and use a brand name one.

 

[Highbeam]

As long as the nicks in the rod aren't sticking up like cheese grater blades they will not damage the seal. Each time the nick passes it will bring with it some oil though. Pits below grade are fine. File off the sharp edges if you can.

 

[EddieWalker]

Kyle,

Your right, not much TV that day, but I'm more of a TV guy when it's dark our and I'm online anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Case won't deal with rebuilding hydraulic pumps or motors. Said they will only replace with new stuff. New Holland reckomended a company near Dallas that they use with good results, but I haven't contacted them.

I will when I have to, but I'm hopefull it won't come to that.

If you talk to your guy, tell him I have a Case 1550 Dozer with the Sundstrand pumps. They are the same pumps used in the John Deere 850 Dozer also.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Mark,

I have two Proto 3/4 inch sockets that have covered every cylinder so for until this one. 1 11/16 and 1 13/16. The 2 inch one suprised me. I think I've done at least half of my cylinders now and have started on the other sides. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eddie

 

[R_Redding]

HI Eddie

very informative...nics pics....

How do you deal with the air that now resides in the ram? Does it just get squeezed past the seals....

I have done a couple of small DA steering rams on mowing equipment and I went to great pains to bleed/remove all the air...


Rob