Recommended hydraulic oil for Case 580B

[DandW]

Hi
I have a 1970's Case 580B with a standard transmission, 4 speed stick on the floor with a high low range stick beside that and a forward reverse lever by the steering wheel.
The hydraulic oil is milky and I would like to change it out. From what I can find it appears that it should take aw46 oil but not sure.
Any recommendations on grade and manufacture would be appreciated.
Dave

 

[BukitCase]

I use aw46 in mine, whatever they have at the farm store (it ain't QUITE as old as me, but close ) - I have a few more cylinders to rebuild on the hoe, so I go thru a fair amount til I get those done.

I'm not familiar with your tranny; is yours gas or diesel? Mine's diesel, has the power shuttle; same fwd/rev on the column but no range lever, just the 4 speed on the floor... Steve

 

[DandW]

Thanks for the reply Steve

I actually did some more research on the serial number and found out it's a 1973. It is a desiel... I mentioned the information about the transmission because in all the posts and other details I have read about the 580B it seems there were only three types of transactions however my setup has never quite seemed to fall into any of those categories.
I have had the machine since 1988 when I bought it used. It has been very good to me over the years. I had to to the dealer in the 90's for a non related problem and they changed the hydraulic oil out at that time. Since, I have just been adding to it as needed. I don't normally use it in the winter unless really needed. It got up into the mid 40's for a couple of days and with all the freeze thaw cycles this winter, there was a lot of slushy crap on the driveway that I was going to clean up a bit. I ended up getting an oil bath because the rubber hose on the backhoe lock pushed off. After looking, very closely at the oil it looks milky. So started looking around for information on how much oil I will need to change it out and got squirreled on all the different types. Don't want to put something wrong into it because she has been very good to me.

I will go out today and take a picture of the shifter s on the floor and post it so you can have a look.
Dave

 

[DandW]

Took a picture of the shifters on my 580B just for giggles. I have not been able to find any information about this setup.
Very messy looking after oil blowup. I have tried to clean up a bit by pouring hot water on the floor and it washed sand out of all the crannies, can't clean right up until it warms up a bit.

 

[BukitCase]

Here's a little more info, including hydraulic capacity -

TractorData.com J.I. Case 580B Construction King industrial tractor information

www.tractordata.com

TractorData.com J.I. Case 580B Construction King industrial tractor attachments information

www.tractordata.com

Yours is the mechanical 4 speed + range tranny according to that.

I'm sure you already know by now that the entire loader frame is your hydraulic "tank" - the pump's "pickup" point is only about 2-3 inches lower than the level "tester" point (the pipe plug on the left side loader tower) - You may also already know NOT to fill the "tank" to that plug if the loader bucket isn't on the ground

IIRC, there are TWO drain plugs; one at the bottom of each loader tower.

HTH... Steve

 

[DandW]

Thanks Steve that does help. I knew that the tanks were the loader frame but didn't know where the pickup point was.
I will go on the hunt for some AW46 oil at a reasonable price.
Also, thanks for the links....useful information

 

[BukitCase]

Meant to say, the actual pickup point going to the pump inlet is from 3/4" or 1" pipe nipples from the front ends of the loader frame, thru holes in both sides of the radiator cowl - these are coupled to a tee just in front of the radiator - the outlet of the tee feeds a metal line and into the pump inlet.

The tops of both loader towers are vented, the right side one is smaller and only for the vent, the left side one is thru the larger 3/4 pipe opening, and can be a PITA to deal with when filling - my solution to that was a "fill kit", consisting of a gallon coffee can with a pour spout bent into one side, a 4" pvc nipple and a transmission funnel - the nipple gets threaded into the hole, the tranny funnel goes into the nipple, and IIRC I cut a little off the small end of the funnel so it would NOT bottom out -

This is necessary because the main pivot rod for the loader runs RIGHT BELOW that fill hole

By using the nipple (screwed into the hole just barely hand tight) the tranny funnel is held snug enough NOT to let the funnel get tipped over by the fluid that hasn't drained into the loader yet, AND making sure you cut enough off the end so flow isn't blocked.

While doing this, I leave the "level checker" pipe plug loose enough to flop around, but NOT completely removed - it's much easier(AND cheaper) to clean up a slight dribble than a couple quarts of fluid - transferring about 3 quarts of fluid at a time gives me a chance to look for seepage at the level plug - when I see it, the plug gets tightened and cleaned up with a shop rag or paper towel. What little fluid might be still draining from the funnel won't be enough to matter.

If you're refilling from scratch (as I've done after some dumb-ass destroyed the original pump - don't ask) you can do the first 5 gallons straight out of the bucket (with the extender pipe/tranny funnel) - you just need to pour from the bucket with the outlet HIGH - a tranny funnel will BACK UP if you just keep pouring (another personal experience) - because of the convoluted shape of the "tank", the rest of a complete refill is better done a coffee can at a time.

There may be a few OTHER tips I missed, but what's the fun in NOT letting others find out for themselves? ... Steve


'

 

[DandW]

Thanks Again Steve

I love your idea about filling it back up with hydraulic fluid. That has always been a real pain for me, I usually get my wife to come and hold the funnel for me while I handle the 5 gallon pale as the funnel won't stay in place by itself because it hits the pivot rod.
I am defiantly going to drain as much out of it as I can and fill back up with what I now know is the proper fluid. I still don't know why the rubber hose slipped off the lock lever, I hope just putting it back on and tightening the clamp fixes the problem. This time I will hold a bunch of rags or something around the connection in hopes of reducing some spray coverage if it comes off again. I am beginning to wonder if there was enough water in the hydraulic fluid in that hose that it may have froze causing pressure to back up pushing the hose off. It's supposed to be in the mid 40's tomorrow so I will give it a go and see. I will post back with how things go

 

[BukitCase]

Not sure what you're calling a lock lever - the transport lock on the hoe is just a wierd hook with a spring and a handle - maybe one of the stabilizers?

And you're welcome again - I've been doing stuff like this solo for so long I sometimes feel like the "king of the stick men", always repurposing stuff for what it COULD be used for - my 580 has become my serious sized "swiss army knife", to the point that my loader bucket has 7 2" receivers in locations others just weld hooks on... Steve

 

[DandW]

I am talking about the Boom Lockout. Its on the floor at the rear of the tractor by the right foot swing peddle.. Its the one were the rubber hose came off and caused my oil bath. You can see in the photo just below the handle that the hose has slipped back.
I attached a photo of what I'm talking about. Sounds like you have done a lot of really useful mods to your 580. One thing I would really like is a Thumb for the backhoe. I live in a very rocky area and sometimes its a real pain casing rocks around to move them. A thumb would make life much easier. They are just crazy expensive