Redecking a bush hog

   / Redecking a bush hog
  • Thread Starter
#11  
The286 is a good cutter. But replacing the WHOLE deck is gonna be alot of cutting and grinding.

Maybe some pictures of it and we could better advise.....Is the whole deck rusted and getting thin? To the point that there are just a few holes now but alot more in the near future? Or are there just a couple troubled areas where paint got chipped off and it laid with debris on top and rotted a localized area?

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Here are some pics. The debris is not typical. I blow it off after use.
 
   / Redecking a bush hog #12  
I have the same problem with a John Deere 513 bushog but want to keep it since it works great for me but I started keeping it in the barn for now.
 
   / Redecking a bush hog #13  
I would cut out damaged/rusted areas, and patch it with like sized material, if a 120V "mig" welder can't do it, it's a problem with the weldor and not the welder....
 
   / Redecking a bush hog #14  
Yup....I'd just patch the bad areas
 
   / Redecking a bush hog #16  
Just rebuilt a Brush Hog 'Squealer' for a customer. Gearbox and pto was fine, blades were shot and had many rust holes and a bent side sheet. Got a new set of blades from ASC and pivot bolts, cut the old ones off, patched the rust holes with sheet steel and gave it the '5 gallon finish'. Good as new.
 
   / Redecking a bush hog #17  
Why worry about those holes?? put some Fluid Film on the holes,, and run it another 5 years.

I saw that type damage on my brother-in-laws mower,, that prompted me to wash my mower after each use.
My JD 390 must be getting close to 20 years old,, now.
Washin' is easier than weldin',,,,,,,,,,,
 
   / Redecking a bush hog #18  
If you REALLY can not stand the holes,, BOLT some patches in place.
The bolted in patches will outlast the gearbox,, if you keep the machine washed in the future.
 
   / Redecking a bush hog #19  
I would give your little welder a workout (and/or grinder if you weld like me!). You could make some really simple rectangular patches, cut, and weld them in. All nice flat surfaces. The cutter looks to be in great shape otherwise. Definitely worth repairing.

I would even say its worth taking to a welding shop to repair. Not sure what the cost would be but can imagine it would take a couple of hours and few bucks in steel. Maybe $200? I'd spend that.

My cutters look like they fell of a truck and were dragged home...
 
 
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