reduce heating bill with Wood Stove

[crash325]

okclumberjack
Have you posted any pics of your splitter build? Point to your thread if you have, or start one if you haven't.
Would like to learn about what you did.

The splitter has been up and running for about 2 weeks. I pushed it real hard to find and correct any weak points. The pusher & its hold down proved to be weak. That fixed the rear cylinder mount tore out. Those problems were corrected and it does work fine. With that said, the 2x2 square is a little under size and should have been 2x3. It has split some real hard and nasty wood, but does have some flex on the big nasties such as the stumps.

It was being run of the hydrolics from the back hoe stablizers and the cylinder is off my Gannon. Going to town and pick up some fittings for the long hoses and it will then run off the standard hydrolics. Will also pick up some more 2x2 and put it under the current 2x2s. When a deal is found on a long stroke cylinder that will be put on.

At that point it will be finished. 2 Date I have spent less than $40. Even with the extra metal, fitting and cylinder, out of pocket cost will be less than $200. OOPS! I forgot to count the beer required for thought & construction.

 

[AHNC]

A product you might want to check out to "equalize" the heat from your wood stove is the the Airshare, by Room to Room Fan : Crawl Space Ventilation : Dryer Booster Fan : Tjernlund Products, Inc. It is a fan that fits in an interior wall and will help draw the air from one room/floor to another. I represent them in my home market, so bias noted, but these work really well.

AireShare™ Room-to-Room and Level-to-Level Fans : Dryer Boosting Fan : Tjernlund Products, Inc.

 

[MtHam]

I put in an airtight woodstove with a catalytic converter 20 years ago, and it has given wonderful service over that time. It's a lot of work and messy, but well worth the effort. We have 40 acres of forest to supply the wood, and the process is very satisfying, providing healthy exercise, as well as a substantial monetary reward. Otherwise we would be burning propane, now at $3.50 a gallon. Thus we are not contributing to the nation's dependence on foreign oil. Carbon neutral, and no dollars flying up the chimney and out the window!

 

[Michelle K linnane]

Well I do not have wood stove yet, but we knocked down about 2 cord of wood this saturday. Some the college kids for fishery and wildlife program come out and help me. I pay them but are good works and do what I ask.
The wood is down and it is starting to bud out here so once the tree was
down we skidded it with Gator or mule away from the woods. My plans are to just leave it there for now. Once the leaves come out and it will help seson the wood even quicker. My plans are to delimbing in the fields of my game preserve.
I have dragged the trees to different parts of the field in places I would like brush piles. The grass during the summer will grow up through the brush and gives us a place to plant more birds. I was thinking of throwing a little chemical fertilize to make the grass even thicker around brush. If I decide I do not want it there any more I can leaving stuff that I clean up piles with my brush hog and tractor.
I only cut trees I did not have to split. An unsplit log will burn longer then split wood. We cut down hickory, ash, mapple, iron wood, a punch of dead or dieing stuff in the hedge rows, and some bigger poplars as they only get so big and then fall over. That wood will be easy to split and good to burn in the fall and spring when you do not need a hot fire.
Once the leaves are off I will bring the logs up a kind of landing parking area around my kennel. Next step will be to build some skids with three sizes once I have the stove I will know what lengths to cut. I thought a cheaper time to get stove and get it installed would be summer.
My fields are real wet right now so I kind of want to stay off with tractor.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Sounds like good plans Michelle. The only thing I would watch out for is leaving stuff on the ground too long that you want to burn. It can start to dry rot or collect bugs. Some of bugs can start working on standing trees. Another reason I try to get them cut and split sooner is less dirt and bugs tracked into the house when I bring the wood in to burn. You are right that a non split log will burn longer if you have enough of a fire going to get it started. I leave all of my branches 2"-4" round for that stuff as they are a good dense wood.
Good on you for creating bird friendly area's!

 

[Michelle K linnane]

More then likely this will seem like a funny time to post. But I have finally get up on some of my bills and selling a few things I do not need and have decided what stove I want to buy. So why it is hot as the devil seems like a good time to me to look for a stove.

Jotul F500 Oslo
Excellent clearances when using heatshields and double wall chimney connector
5 year limited warranty
Maximum heat output: 70,000 BTU/hr
Heating capacity: Up to 2,000 sq.ft
Over 75% efficient
Log length: 22"
Front and left side-loading door - the industry's largest
Burn time: Up to 9 hours I do not believe that more like 6 1/2
clean burn technology... plus open door fire viewing - an industry pioneer!

We already have trees down but not cut up, needed to decide on stove first so we know what lengths to cut. So thank you to all you guys that helped
me to decide!

 

[rd_macgregor]

If 22" is the maximum log length, I suggest you cut them at least couple of inches shorter. Sticking a log into a hot box only to realize you have to pull it back out (on fire!) because you can't get the door closed, is not an experience you'll want to have very often.
BOB

 

[Treemonkey1000]

If 22" is the maximum log length, I suggest you cut them at least couple of inches shorter. Sticking a log into a hot box only to realize you have to pull it back out (on fire!) because you can't get the door closed, is not an experience you'll want to have very often.
BOB

I have to agree. Those are called "wedgies" and they are no fun in woodstoves or in your knickers

 

[brandoro]

I concur. My stove will take 18" wood, just. I try to never cut over 16" so I am sure the door will close.

 

[Michelle K linnane]

Thank you for the log length tips. They are great. I talked with one place about the stove I picked and gave the guy the floor plan and he said to me that model was not the right model for me.
he suggested two different models

Jotul F 400 Castine
Jøtul's medium-sized single door, non catalytic woodstove just got better, with enhanced fire viewing and air wash performance. Featuring meticulous craftsmanship and design, the Jøtul F 400 Castine will provide a warm, wonderful centerpiece for your hearth and home. Created by award winning designers, this stove has a unique nautical theme which highlights the tradition of seacoast living, a lifestyle shared by residents of Maine and Norway.

Jotul F 50 Rangeley
The Jøtul F 50 TL Rangeley will offer the convenience of top loading in a non catalytic clean burning stove. Marrying both cast iron and steel, the Jøtul F 50 TL Rangeley will be offered with a choice of either steel or cast iron sides. Boasting an overall 84% energy efficiency, and EPA certified low 2.84 grams/hr emission; the Jøtul F 50 TL Rangeley is the perfect house heater for those cold winter months.

I have uploaded the quotes so you can see the chimney materials it will NOT be cheap. To install stove pipe is going to be $2085 Seems pretty pricey to
me for just up through the roof. But I remember in other posts some people
paid a lot for theirs. Will get other quotes.

The F50 is a also a top loader Does any body have experience with either of these two models?