Davelsxg3037h
New member
- Joined
- May 15, 2018
- Messages
- 2
- Tractor
- Ls xg 3037h
Hey guys looking for input I have a ls xg3037h and having problems with the regen anyone have similar issues or know why these lights are on? Thanks
Regen
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Rc4510
Bronze Member
The one light shows its doin a burn and the other light with thurnomature (spelled wrong) is warning of hot exhaust.let it do its burn then first light will go out followed by hot exhaust light when it cools down
George2615
Super Member
First, Welcome to TBN......
Yes, the 2 amber lights indicate the regen cycle is running. The red light (bottom left) along with the regen lights indicates you are running in limp mode. RPM will be limited to about 1800 until regen cycle is complete. Of course you know the red P light means the parking brake is on.
All I can suggest is what has worked for me.
1) Always use quality ULSD fuel from a reputable supplier.
2) I always operate the tractor at 2000 RPM or greater, even when just driving around. Higher RPM operation seems to produce less soot build up which reduces regen time and helps prevent it from going into limp mode.
3) Keep your air filter clean.
4) If a regen cycle starts, let it complete before shutting tractor off.
5) I got into a habit of looking at the gauges when I'm getting close to putting the tractor away for the day. If the regen lights are not lit I hold down the regen inhibit button for 3-4 seconds to prevent it from going into regen. This inhibit function will automatically reset to normal once the key is turned off. Prior to doing this it quite often seemed to start a regen cycle just as I wanted to put the tractor away and I would have to let it run at high RPM for30 minutes or so until the regen was complete. To me that is a waste of fuel and I would rather have the regen cycle do its job while I am working the tractor.
Yes, the 2 amber lights indicate the regen cycle is running. The red light (bottom left) along with the regen lights indicates you are running in limp mode. RPM will be limited to about 1800 until regen cycle is complete. Of course you know the red P light means the parking brake is on.
All I can suggest is what has worked for me.
1) Always use quality ULSD fuel from a reputable supplier.
2) I always operate the tractor at 2000 RPM or greater, even when just driving around. Higher RPM operation seems to produce less soot build up which reduces regen time and helps prevent it from going into limp mode.
3) Keep your air filter clean.
4) If a regen cycle starts, let it complete before shutting tractor off.
5) I got into a habit of looking at the gauges when I'm getting close to putting the tractor away for the day. If the regen lights are not lit I hold down the regen inhibit button for 3-4 seconds to prevent it from going into regen. This inhibit function will automatically reset to normal once the key is turned off. Prior to doing this it quite often seemed to start a regen cycle just as I wanted to put the tractor away and I would have to let it run at high RPM for30 minutes or so until the regen was complete. To me that is a waste of fuel and I would rather have the regen cycle do its job while I am working the tractor.
Maxify55
Gold Member
1) I have no idea what ULSD is but I use the fuel at my local station and pay the applicable road/sales taxes.
No home heating oil with all it's algae going into my equipment.
2) Check: Always {After suitable warm up in winter) crank up the RPMs to 2000.
It'll help keep all the DPF equipment operating efficiently.
3) Air Filter cleaning...Check. Ya gotta be able to breathe!
4) I couldn't care less if the rewgen cycle is working when I complete my tasks.
It'll pick right up where you left off when you get back to work later, tomorrow or next week.
No matter.
5) If the "Limp Cycle" begins.....What I have done in the past, but this isn't in the manual, is: Shut the tractor down and restart.
In short... Reboot your onboard computer.
That'll sometimes help.
There....My 2 cents worth of advice
Oh, yeah. Don't forget to check for loose bolts (Even frame bolts)
I've caught some of those loosening over time.
Heck, I've had two of them shear right in half.
We work ours hard. Like it was meant to work.
Almost 800 hours now and it just sings.
Great tractor
No home heating oil with all it's algae going into my equipment.
2) Check: Always {After suitable warm up in winter) crank up the RPMs to 2000.
It'll help keep all the DPF equipment operating efficiently.
3) Air Filter cleaning...Check. Ya gotta be able to breathe!
4) I couldn't care less if the rewgen cycle is working when I complete my tasks.
It'll pick right up where you left off when you get back to work later, tomorrow or next week.
No matter.
5) If the "Limp Cycle" begins.....What I have done in the past, but this isn't in the manual, is: Shut the tractor down and restart.
In short... Reboot your onboard computer.
That'll sometimes help.
There....My 2 cents worth of advice
Oh, yeah. Don't forget to check for loose bolts (Even frame bolts)
I've caught some of those loosening over time.
Heck, I've had two of them shear right in half.
We work ours hard. Like it was meant to work.
Almost 800 hours now and it just sings.
Great tractor
deezler
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2012
- Messages
- 3,888
- Location
- Southeast MI
- Tractor
- Cub Cadet 7305, Kioti CK3510seh TLB
...thermometer? lol that was a good one. Not hating, we all brain fart like that sometimes. haha.
OP
Davelsxg3037h
New member
- Joined
- May 15, 2018
- Messages
- 2
- Tractor
- Ls xg 3037h
Thanks guys. Iv had it regen many times just never with the red indicator in the bottom left while the reducing power mode on. I let it regen for about 45 min and the lights all stayed the same so I got a little nervous haha
George2615
Super Member
ULSD is Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel which has less than 15 PPM sulfur.
And I do use home heating oil which is #2 ULSD diesel. Been using it for past 14 years without problem. I do add Power Service (white bottle) to help prevent gelling in winter but Maxify shouldn't need that where he lives.
As Maxify said you can shut it off even though a regen cycle has started. The cycle will restart the next time you run the tractor. I use the inhibit switch because I don't like to interrupt the cycle once it has started.
alexsbuddy
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2016
- Messages
- 331
- Location
- Diamond, MO
- Tractor
- LS XG3037 w/ LS LL3109 FEL Kodiak SD5 Mower, Speeco Model 65 PHD, Bush Hog BX-600 Box Blade, Titan 42" Skid Steer Pallet Fork/Hay Spear Combo
I may be missing something here, but my XG3037 never goes into limp mode when it regens. I can run at 2500 rpm while mowing and in regen. The regen cycle has no impact on my tractor's performance.
My xr3135 does not go in to Limp mode either. Pretty much maintains full power. People hated limp mode because they couldn't get their work done during Regen. Probably updated the computer to avoid this problem.
George2615
Super Member
As long as the soot level is under 100% the regen cycle can proceed without going into limp mode so you may not notice the regen lights on the dash and can continue working the tractor. When the soot level gets between 100-140% is when the tractor will go into limp mode which limits the RPM to1800 until the cycle is complete. If the soot level gets above 140% the tractor may shut down completely and require a trip to the dealer to clean the DPF and get it restarted.
buickanddeere
Super Member
Limp mode occurs because operator’s keep deferring regen or shut the machine down during regen. Operating at full rated rpms and a full rated power instead of putting around . This just about eliminates regens. And regen occurs , who even knows without the dash indication.
That is great info. Thanks
This is great info. It takes a conscious effort to run at rated rpm. It is not intuitive and takes time and effort to make yourself do it.
deserteagle71
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2017
- Messages
- 2,714
- Location
- northern Nevada
- Tractor
- John Deere 2020 diesel, Kubota M7060HDC12
Amen to that! I'm trying to train myself to NOT throttle down my Kubota when I'm doing little chores around here that require my getting off the tractor multiple times...just leave the engine running at high rpms. I guess it doesn't really consume that much more fuel, and the engine really isn't noisy compared to the old John Deere...but it just SEEMS wrong!
I was going to sell my old John Deere after I got the Kubota but now I'm rethinking that. Picking rocks out of my firebreak and tossing them into the loader bucket the other day, I just opted to use the John Deere so I could let the engine die down to an idle each time I got off the tractor. Old habits die hard....
1stDeuce
Gold Member
Just tossing this out there, but from what I know of diesel truck emissions, and the way diesel engines and particulate filters operate, you guys might be taking this a little far...
Idling a tractor down when it's just sitting (once it's warm) shouldn't load the filter hardly at all. It's working the engine at lower RPM's that loads the filter. Most particulates are generated when the engine is lugging, or when it is trying to come up to the desired speed and adding significant fuel. Any steady state operation at low loading should produce much less soot loading, and that includes idling. Now, if you ONLY idle the tractor, it will take longer to warm up, and a cold engine does produce more soot.
My recommendation is to idle up to around 1500rpm's until the engine is warm, and don't work it until it is.
When working the tractor lightly, 1500-1800rpm should be sufficient. If you can hear it lugging, or see the engine speed drop while working it, you need to use higher RPM's.
Avoid constantly using the foot feed on gear tractors, as increasing engine speed while under load generates additional soot. Instead use the hand throttle like you would on a hydrostat. Set it high enough that the engine doesn't lug or bog as you operate the tractor.
As long as the engine is up to temp, and the tractor is not in a regen cycle, idling it down when it is just sitting should not significantly increase soot loading.
Of course you can just run it at rated speed all the time, but that's terribly inefficient unless you're working it hard all the time, and you'll rack up hours much faster than necessary...
Just my $0.02
On another topic, any of you running 31xx or 41xx series tractors care to comment on how often they regen? LS insisted it would be a LOT less often than the 30xx/40xx tractors, and I'm curious if they hit their goal... ???
Idling a tractor down when it's just sitting (once it's warm) shouldn't load the filter hardly at all. It's working the engine at lower RPM's that loads the filter. Most particulates are generated when the engine is lugging, or when it is trying to come up to the desired speed and adding significant fuel. Any steady state operation at low loading should produce much less soot loading, and that includes idling. Now, if you ONLY idle the tractor, it will take longer to warm up, and a cold engine does produce more soot.
My recommendation is to idle up to around 1500rpm's until the engine is warm, and don't work it until it is.
When working the tractor lightly, 1500-1800rpm should be sufficient. If you can hear it lugging, or see the engine speed drop while working it, you need to use higher RPM's.
Avoid constantly using the foot feed on gear tractors, as increasing engine speed while under load generates additional soot. Instead use the hand throttle like you would on a hydrostat. Set it high enough that the engine doesn't lug or bog as you operate the tractor.
As long as the engine is up to temp, and the tractor is not in a regen cycle, idling it down when it is just sitting should not significantly increase soot loading.
Of course you can just run it at rated speed all the time, but that's terribly inefficient unless you're working it hard all the time, and you'll rack up hours much faster than necessary...
Just my $0.02
On another topic, any of you running 31xx or 41xx series tractors care to comment on how often they regen? LS insisted it would be a LOT less often than the 30xx/40xx tractors, and I'm curious if they hit their goal... ???
My first regen was at 24 hours (XR3135). Thought it was a little soon as all the literature states the usual regen times to be around 50 hours. Now that I have more and better info on proper tractor use, I expect regen times to be closer to those 50 hour marks.
Temps were getting chilly when the tractor was delivered and I didn't know enough th keep the rpms up. Still waiting for Spring snowmelt to dry up then I will be working her hard.
Temps were getting chilly when the tractor was delivered and I didn't know enough th keep the rpms up. Still waiting for Spring snowmelt to dry up then I will be working her hard.
