Reinforcing trailer I beam frame

[jaxs]

Don't drill holes in frame. I recommend 3'x10"x1/4" plate tack welded to flange lips. 10" allows plate to extend above or below beam. Before positioning 10" plate onto beam tack weld a 3'x2"x1/4" plate in tee fashion on one edge of 10" plate. Welding lips minimizes effect of welding heat on Jr beam and 2" plate reinforces 10" against twisting. Needless to say,do the same on both beams. If you are determined to use all those 7"x10" pieces and have a stick welder I suppose you could stager and plug weld them together so they form 1/4" plate but imo it's penny wise and pound foolish.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

What size axles does it have ? It's probably not worth messing with.

 

[yanmars]

I think the tractor, loader and mower would be around 6000 pounds. The trailer itself is around a ton.

 

[yanmars]

The weld shop did a nice job of removing the buckle. I did bring it back in to add some steel plate in the axle area. I am on the look out for a different trailer however.
My brother got a steel decked 20 foot trailer that he can drive on without separate ramps for $2500 used some years ago. Wish I could find a deal like that on an equipment trailer. His is not a car trailer.

 

[Renze]

Welding or bolting doesnt make much different.

Nonetheless, in bending you have compression in one flange and tension in the other. Adding steel to the web adds little in bending. I would weld flat bar to both the upper and the lower flange where it matters most. Did it on my front loader and on my dump trailer, to use a truck bed subframe as trailer frame.

 

[yanmars]

Got the trailer back, straightened the buckle and added steel welded plate. It appears 1/4 inchx6 1/2 inches by 110 inches long, one on each side. About $1600 but at least the trailer has some use now.
It will work until I can find something heavier, I have my brothers trailer to use in a pinch.