LD1
Epic Contributor
You can do a relay test yourself with a simple set of jumpers and a volt-ohm meter.
If you look on the bottom of the relay, you will see either 4 or 5 terminals. Numbered 85, 86, 87, 30, and if it has a 5th, 87A.
87A is probably not used for the starting circuit.
What you do is put 12v to the 85 and 86 terminals. Which one you hook to positive and which one to negative dont matter. You should hear/feel a little click inside. Now the 12v to 85 and 86, set your meter to ohms. You should show 0 ohms (or very little ohms) of resistance between 87 and 30. That means the relay is fine. 30 would be the input of 12v when on the tractor, and 87 would be the output when the relay is "switched" by applying the 12v to 85 and 86.
87A is a normally closed contact that not all relays have. That would be used if you wanted 12V power and then when the relay is switched on, the power goes away and to 87, which is normally open.
If you look on the bottom of the relay, you will see either 4 or 5 terminals. Numbered 85, 86, 87, 30, and if it has a 5th, 87A.
87A is probably not used for the starting circuit.
What you do is put 12v to the 85 and 86 terminals. Which one you hook to positive and which one to negative dont matter. You should hear/feel a little click inside. Now the 12v to 85 and 86, set your meter to ohms. You should show 0 ohms (or very little ohms) of resistance between 87 and 30. That means the relay is fine. 30 would be the input of 12v when on the tractor, and 87 would be the output when the relay is "switched" by applying the 12v to 85 and 86.
87A is a normally closed contact that not all relays have. That would be used if you wanted 12V power and then when the relay is switched on, the power goes away and to 87, which is normally open.