Removing 756C bh

[pekabu]

I will need to remove the BH from myTC24d soon, and was wondering if anyone has done it before. It looks like there are two pins up front, Bolts? for the rear axle? Also, the manual shows straightening the bucket arm all the way out for remoal. Is it really necassary? I assume it's safer (Lower center of gravity thing).

Thanks
Dave

 

[bmac]

Dave,

DISCLAIMER: I have only done this one time so this response is to be taken with a grain of salt.

Not too hard to get off. Follow the directions in the manual. Pull the pins up front. The weight should be supported by the the stabilizers and the bucket. Drive forward SLOWLY until the bh clears the rear bracket. Relieve your hydraulic pressure, then disconnect the hoses. I dont't have my manual with me to refer to, but I think I have this in the proper sequence.


<font color="blue"> Bolts? for the rear axle? </font>

Nope - just the 2 pins up front.

<font color="blue"> Also, the manual shows straightening the bucket arm all the way out for remoal. Is it really necassary? </font>

I have read a post on TBN where someone says it is not necessary. Again, I have only done this one time. I laid mine out flat. I think the trick is to disconnect it on a very flat (read concrete) surface. Mine was done in my back yard which has a little slope to it. Took me about an hour to get the thing back on (during which some not-so-nice words raced through my mind).

My manual does not describe the re-attachment process. Nor did it say that when you remove the bh, you have to make some changes in the hydraulics to get your 3ph to work again. Guess they figure anyone who would spend the dough for a bh would be smart enough to know this. Most probably are. Not me. Also, before reattaching, make sure your lower 3ph arms are raised high enough to clear the bh frame. Once you attach the bh hydraulics, the 3ph will not lift so you want the lowers arms hih enough before you attach the bh hoses. Of course, you can let the lower arms down if too high.

Those are the only things I can think of now. Good luck.

 

[pekabu]

Thanks for the info. I read through the manual, but I am visual type of person.

Dave

 

[pekabu]

One other question, what changes did you have to make to the 3pt hitch Hydraulics?

 

[bmac]

<font color="blue"> I read through the manual, but I am visual type of person.
</font>

I know what you mean. And the manual is somewhat less than complete.

 

[bmac]

<font color="blue"> One other question, what changes did you have to make to the 3pt hitch Hydraulics?
</font>

Well, I was not specific in my response because I couldn't recall exactly what I did. Dang, old age tough. All I remember is that once the bh was removed, the 3ph did not lift and I had to monkey around with things to get it to work. I'll have to go out to the tractor and take a look to refresh my memory, but it will be Thurs or fri before I can do that. I'll try to take pictures. Of course, one of the TBN all-stars will probably jump in and answer your question before that.

 

[Libertine]

pekabu:

I have a 758c but believe the setup is similar. As bemac says the manual isn't too good. Have had mine on/off about a dozen times so I'm not expert, but . . .

Sequence off: 1) relieve pressure on pins w-stabalizer/arm adjustments, 2) knock pins out, 3) adjust stabalizers/arm to LOWER forward part of subframe below the two pairs of frame plates attached to the loader frame and pressure on the rear attachment "C" below axle, 4) drive forward a bit, 5) tractor off & relieve hydraulic pressure, 6) unplug return line (from rear of tractor) & high pressure line from BH line, 7) plug high pressure line into high pressure outlet on the tractor (which powers the 3pt). Drive forward.

It is not necessary to have BH on a completely level area IF, and I repeat IF, you think about what you are trying to do, i.e. visualize the removal (& remounting) procedure - what you are trying to accomplish rather than the manual. Once I quit trying to "follow the manual instructions" it was a lot easier. The rear "C" mount under the axle does have to be on the same angle as the BH support crosspiece that slips into it. In other words, if the tractor AND BH are both equally crooked it's ok. The biggest reattachment problem I've had is making sure the front part of the BH subframe raises up into the two plates hanging down from the loader frame. If they aren't exactly positioned (so the holes match up) you'll have to pound the pins back in. That is why you need to back up for remounting so the subframe is exactly lined up with the attaching plates - then they slip in ok - and why you need to be sure the front on the subframe is lowered BEFORE you pull away when demounting. Also, be sure the "C" mount in the rear (on the tractor under the axle) is clean so the BH cross piece that slips into it slips in all the way (learned that the hard way after it got filled with dirt when doing some blade work).

The demounting/mounting procedure on the NH is a bit more complicated than many others. The upside is that when the BH is off, the tractor is "cleaner" than others, i.e. there's no heavy permanent subframe left on the tractor which I like since I only use BH sometimes and like it clean for other stuff.

JEH

 

[bmac]

grimreaper,

Great description!

<font color="blue"> 7) plug high pressure line into high pressure outlet on the tractor (which powers the 3pt) </font>

Pekabu - That's the detail I couldn't remember for sure that I was going to refresh my memory on. I know I also, messed with a switch-like thing (don't know what it is called - you turn it with a screwdriver) near the high pressure outlet. All that did was let me use either the 3ph or the fel - not both. Its when I finally saw the high pressure line to plug into where I disconnected the bh that everything worked.

Grim - I don't want to hijack pekabu's post but I would like to follow-up on the disconnect / reattachment comments you made. While I understand what you said about the need to keep the angle of the C bracket on the tractor at the same angle as cross piece on the bh, if the bh is not on level ground, how can you maintain this angle? In other words, the 1 time I removed mine, when I relieved the hose pressure, my stabilizers slide all the way out and the bh ended up completely flat like the diagram in the manual shows. Because it was not on level ground, when I went to reattach the bh, reestablishing this angle was quite a challenge. If I could have left the bh in the same position it was in when I did the little drive-forward thng (before disconnecting the hoses), then I agree with you that reattaching would have been much easier. What did I do wrong?

Thanks for your help.

Bruce

 

[Libertine]

bmac:

<font color="blue">when I relieved the hose pressure, my stabilizers slide all the way out and the bh ended up completely flat like the diagram in the manual shows. </font>

The hoses shouldn't be disconnected until the BH is resting on a support (under the frame where the stabilizers are attached). I use a concrete block & one brick for the right height - but don't know how much you would need, would guess about 2/3 of distance between ground and bottom of BH frame. The main thing is you use the stabilizers/arm/bucket to adjust/maneuver the thing where you want it after the pins are out (or before backing up for the final connection when remounting). If you didn't use blocking, guess the thing would settle down. Then you would have to back up, reconnect hydraulics and position BH for reconnection. But that shouldn't be a big deal - but easier with blocking.

Dropped my rollover blade and remounted the BH yesterday (had to do some digging). Was thinking about this thread and thought about some things I wish the manual had covered when I was first starting out:

1) If the pressure in the BH is not completely removed, reattaching the BH hoses to tractor is difficult. The small button on the male fitting (from BH hose) doesn't depress (because of the retained pressure in the BH). Because of concern about damaging the fitting if a hammer or bar were used, I used a gear puller on the fitting - a turn of the screw and the button depresses and a bit of hyrdraulic fluid squirts out and, viola, pressure removed.
2) When remounting the BH you back up to where the rear support on the tractor is just forward of the subframe cross piece (turn off engine-relieve hydraulic pressure on loader-attach hoses). Use the BH itself (stabilizers and arm) to position itself so the crosspiece is lined up with the rear support bracket (under the axle) AND the forward end of the subframe is pointing DOWNWARD toward the ground. If you try to back into it when the subframe is horizontal with the ground, unless perfectly lined up, it is almost impossible to make the final backup so the subframe slides between the brackets (where the pin goes through). Those brackets are flared out to self guide the subframe into position for inserting the pins, but only if the subframe is raised up into the bracket from below.
3) Before making the final back up to mount BH, check the lower links (on the 3pt) to be sure they are loose, ie. remove the pins from the sliding position adjusters. If the pins are on a chain (mine are) loop them to the INSIDE of the lower links. Check that the 3pt lift arms will slide INSIDE the BH frame (the sheet metal under the seat) when backing. If not, I extend the lower links (mine has extendable links) so they are already on the inside. If the 3pt lift arms feed to the outside the BH won't mount.
4) Once the rear crosspiece on the subframe is completely seated into the tractor mounting bracket under the axle, use the hydraulic controls on the BH (stabs & arm) to RAISE the forward subframe members up into the forward mounting brackets. If the pins will not go through get at least one in (otherwise you can't/shouldn't drive off with the hoe-it would fall off!!!!). Tap the second pin in as far as it will go, raise stabs and fold arm. Then drive forward 10'-15' (BE SURE AT LEAST ONE OF THE PINS IS INSERTED). The movement will cause the BH subframe to line up and the 2nd pin can be easily tapped into place. Don't forget to reinsert the click pins.

Again, per my comment above, use the BH itself to position it for easy remounting. I wish the manual had covered the items I did above - would have saved me some frustration when first starting out.

JEH

 

[BBJ]

I know this is an old thread, but it's just the info I'm looking for. I recently purchased a used TC-40 with a 758C backhoe. I have read this thread and crawled under the tractor to see how to remove the backhoe.

My question is this: I will disconnect 2 hydraulic fittings, but only see where I would reconnect 1 up front to get the 3 point hitch working. Is this correct? I don't have a service manual to check, and the operator manuals for both tractor and backhoe don't tell how to remove or install the backhoe.

Thanks much for any help!