Backhoe Removing/Installing BK2375 - narrow shed

[Fuggley]

Hi folks, I have a CK30 & loader with BK2375 backhoe and have never removed the backhoe. I am planning on following the many forum instructions/tips on how to do this but my tractor shed is only 10' wide by 24' long .... it has a nice level concrete floor.
Are there any concerns regarding the narrow width of the shed? Am I going to have difficulty or
are there safety concerns with doing the backhoe removal/install in a shed this narrow.
Any advice appreciated... Fug

 

[VictorW]

I have the same tlb set up. With the side stabs all the way out, horizontal, you'll clear your ten foot width. I do end up backing part of the tractor or my back blade, if attached, over the sub frame as it sits blocked up three inches off the floor. You may still have to with 24" long shed.

 

[Fuggley]

Ok, I'll give it a try.... 'uh... what can go wrong anyway?
It is a small shed but great storage for the tractor and some tools. I'm ok with having to park with some of the backhoe frame under the tractor.

 

[rimshot]

You also might want to chain the pads together if you want the profile of that stored backhoe to stop growing. If you have room to keep them down that is fine but if space across both outriggers is at a premium you won't want them to drop and settle on anything nearby.

rimshot

 

[Fuggley]

I'll see how much room I need once it's all on the floor and chaining the outriggers up some would give me more space. Thanks.

 

[rmorey]

Hey Fuggley, welcome to TBN!

Sounds like you havent had the hoe off and on very often. It really is no big deal, taking it off is simple. Just drop the stabilizers and the bucket to act like a tripod, undo the two pins and disconnect the hoses. Remember to shut down the tractor and cycle the a-b switch back and forth a few times to relieve the hydraulic pressure before you disconnect the hoses.

To reconnect, just back up over top the frame to get close enough to reconnect the hoses. Once reconnected, you can move each stabilizer and the bucket to "level" the frame to the tractor, backup to catch the frame and drop in the pins. Watch out for the tow bar pins. Bam done!

Maybe practice a few times in the yard before you get inside. Easy peasy! :thumbsup:

 

[Gil Case]

All is well and good if the bucket doesn't drift down over the winter and then the sub frame is up in the air two feet. Better to put the back hoe on its belly with out riggers up and chained as earlier suggestion, then put a 2*6 brace under the bucket arm.

This is not speculation, my bucket used to drift every winter, enough so that I could not drive over it in the spring.

 

[Gary Fowler]

All is well and good if the bucket doesn't drift down over the winter and then the sub frame is up in the air two feet. Better to put the back hoe on its belly with out riggers up and chained as earlier suggestion, then put a 2*6 brace under the bucket arm.

This is not speculation, my bucket used to drift every winter, enough so that I could not drive over it in the spring.

Why would you have to drive over the bucket to hook up a backhoe? That just doesn't seem right. If backed into the storage shed and unhooked, then just back up to it to reattach, hook up the hoses to level and adjust, then back up, shove home the pins and go. YOUR backhoe must unhook very differently from mine.

 

[bmurphy777]

Hey, I think I can add something useful here. :laughing: Don't park the backhoe any closer to the rear wall than you absolutely have to. When you try to catch the frame and drop in the pins if there is any mistake you will push it into the wall and cause damage. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[Fuggley]

.... all good input! Recommendations based on your collective experiences could save me some problems, so all your feedback is very much appreciated. I will man up and attempt this feat of extreme tractorship mid week. ... and I'll be back to this post of I run into any trouble.
Thanks to y'all for your feedback!

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

Why would you have to drive over the bucket to hook up a backhoe? That just doesn't seem right. If backed into the storage shed and unhooked, then just back up to it to reattach, hook up the hoses to level and adjust, then back up, shove home the pins and go. YOUR backhoe must unhook very differently from mine.

He is saying that if the bucket cylinder leaks down (or the boom or DS, for that matter), which it will, then the front of the subframe lifts. To remount the BH, you have to back over the front of the sub-frame, which would be impossible if the front of the subframe is too high. I'm curious to find out how he did it. I'm guessing he had to back up next to the BH, close enough that he could hook the hydros up, reposition it, then disconnect and back over it properly.

I haven't had mine off for any extended period of time, but I found that overnight leak-down caused the front of my subframe to sink to the ground rather than lifting up. It may have something to do with the position that you rest your boom and dipperstick in. I would think that leak-down would cause your stabilizers to drop the rear of the subframe with time, but the direction the front of the subframe would move with leak-down in the boom and dipperstick would be harder to predict by eyeball. Of course, I'm not sure how it would act over time, though, since I haven't tried it.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

Hey, I think I can add something useful here. :laughing: Don't park the backhoe any closer to the rear wall than you absolutely have to. When you try to catch the frame and drop in the pins if there is any mistake you will push it into the wall and cause damage. Don't ask me how I know this.

This. Don't forget this advice.

I've moved mine as far as 2' trying to get the subframe to settle in the receivers.

 

[Gary Fowler]

He is saying that if the bucket cylinder leaks down (or the boom or DS, for that matter), which it will, then the front of the subframe lifts. To remount the BH, you have to back over the front of the sub-frame, which would be impossible if the front of the subframe is too high. I'm curious to find out how he did it. I'm guessing he had to back up next to the BH, close enough that he could hook the hydros up, reposition it, then disconnect and back over it properly.

I haven't had mine off for any extended period of time, but I found that overnight leak-down caused the front of my subframe to sink to the ground rather than lifting up. It may have something to do with the position that you rest your boom and dipperstick in. I would think that leak-down would cause your stabilizers to drop the rear of the subframe with time, but the direction the front of the subframe would move with leak-down in the boom and dipperstick would be harder to predict by eyeball. Of course, I'm not sure how it would act over time, though, since I haven't tried it.

I guess I am spoiled with my B26 (only BH I have ever had). Subframe stays on the tractor as it is also part of the FEL. I only have to put down the stabilizers, get neutral pressure on two pins, pull them back then use the stabilizers to raise the backhoe up a bit, pull forward 18" or so, drop everything down till no more pressure on the hydraulics then unhook the two hoses from the back hoe, hooking the one on the tractor back in to form a closed loop. Finished, maybe 5 minutes start to finish. It does take a bit longer to get everything aligned and square when reattaching.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

That is basically the same procedure with the Kioti BH.
I think with any design, the point that connects to the tractor is going to shift when the BH is disconnected for an extended period of time. It's just a matter of getting the system re-pressurized, reset to the position you left it in, and then reconnecting.

 

[newbury]

OP -
Is there anyway you can get a chain hoist over the BH?
A 1 ton chain hoist at HF is only about $40 after discount and then you can easily pick up the BH and spin it around.

 

[Fuggley]

... no need for chain hoists. Tried today and the BH comes off and goes on very easily. Not sure what I was worried about
Thanks everyone for the feedback!
Closing this post.

 

[Coyote machine]

I use a dolly to get the KB-2485 hoe positioned where I need it to be; the subframe, stabilizers and bucket then have nothing to do with dropping or raising anything over time, and the hoe can be moved fairly easily to line up to the tractor which is easier to do than line up the tractor with the hoe.
Install a loop with 2 male ends to connect the detented remotes when not using the hoe so you don't deadhead the circuit and kill the pump.
Only admin closes threads.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

I use a dolly to get the KB-2485 hoe positioned where I need it to be; the subframe, stabilizers and bucket then have nothing to do with dropping or raising anything over time...

Don't get me wrong, I think the dolly is a great idea, but how does it keep the subframe from shifting with time. Regardless if they are resting on the ground, or on a dolly, the cylinders that control that stabilizers, boom, dipperstick, and bucket will leak down with time and shift their position as well as that of the subframe. I have a feeling that there is a way to position the boom/DS/bucket so that the subframe just settles down as the cylinders leak down, but that position should be the same if it is on a dolly or on the ground.

 

[Coyote machine]

Don't get me wrong, I think the dolly is a great idea, but how does it keep the subframe from shifting with time. Regardless if they are resting on the ground, or on a dolly, the cylinders that control that stabilizers, boom, dipperstick, and bucket will leak down with time and shift their position as well as that of the subframe. I have a feeling that there is a way to position the boom/DS/bucket so that the subframe just settles down as the cylinders leak down, but that position should be the same if it is on a dolly or on the ground.

Glad you queried! Actually the subframe stays in place because the dolly supports the center of gravity of the entire unit. It is easy to keep the outriggers in place with their locks, and same with the boom & dipper. Mine has sat on the dolly almost a year with no issues whatsoever. It's ready to roll at a moments notice...

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think if I had to remove the entire sub-frame to take off a backhoe, it would be either off or on all the time. Mine is easy to remove, but since I have 2 tractors, mine stays on all the time and ready to work at the turn of a key. It would be so easy to design all of them to remove via two pins rather than removing the frame so why do some require frame removal? Cheap/thoughtless engineering??