Removing large pins: Anyone use one of these???

[LOOPHOLE]

John Bud's post reminded me why I haven't jumped on my backhoe's main pin/sloppy movement side to side. Maybe I should try the small air hammer. It didn't buge with a sledge hammer.

 

[wushaw]

Dougster; That CP715K is an air hammer and the aircraft style rivet guns hit a little different...they have much more control (feather trigger) and hit harder for the same size air hammer.
If ya had one to try you would never go back to a air hammer.

The Yard store has a mobile truck and trailer that show up at my work for @ week every year.

With what you want to accomplish I wouldn't go any smaller than a 4X gun.

Also anything bigger than a 4X will have a .498 shank

 

[Dougster]

John Bud's post reminded me why I haven't jumped on my backhoe's main pin/sloppy movement side to side. Maybe I should try the small air hammer. It didn't buge with a sledge hammer.

Seems like if it didn't budge with a sledge hammer it may not budge with an air hammer either.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

Dougster; That CP715K is an air hammer and the aircraft style rivet guns hit a little different...they have much more control (feather trigger) and hit harder for the same size air hammer. If ya had one to try you would never go back to a air hammer. The Yard store has a mobile truck and trailer that show up at my work for @ week every year. With what you want to accomplish I wouldn't go any smaller than a 4X gun. Also anything bigger than a 4X will have a .498 shank

Well, I might not have to worry about shank size with a rivet gun since I could simply buy a hammer-style rivet gun bit... correct?

But the larger question is where would I find an affordable rivet gun of sufficient power up here in Eastern Taxachusetts, Northern RI or Southern NH???

At this point, I think I'd better try the air hammer (which I already own) first.

Dougster

 

[john_bud]

Dougster,

To answer your question, You buy a scrap of 1/4" brass sheet and a hole saw. The "spool" falls out. It's easy when you know the answer....

You said you did a pretty good job of relieving pressures on the pins. For bucket stuff, if it is stuck, my guess is that it is either buggered up (badly) or you didn't do such a good job. A used pin will normally come out pretty easy if it is aligned half decent. For the bucket, you should be able to raise the boom so the bucket is off the ground a couple inches. Then put a sheet of plywood under it and a 2x6 or 2x8 on top. Then slid in some shims to start taking off pressure from the weight of the bucket. CLOSELY watch the bucket pins for any slight motion as you manually slide the shims in. Do this with the curl cylinder disconnected.

You are having issue with the dipper to bucket pin, right? The cylinder/linkage pin should be cake. If the bucket is light, you can beef it around. Use leverage and a 2x4.

With new bushings and pins, the clearance will be about nothing. If you don't have it lined up straight as a laser, and then start whacking it with the BFH, you may just find you are driving out a bushing. BTDT - didn't like it.

For small pins in the 1" to 2" range, I start with a 20oz ball peen hammer, then work to a 3# hand maul then an 8# sledge. The trick isn't to hit it hard, it's to line it up first. If it don't move, use a torch or heat gun on the housing.

The few that got the 8# nudge, the pins were rusted to the bushings solid and had to be heated up to dull red to get them out. Bushing attached to pin driven out as a unit. Hope you don't have to do that as I know you are fond of shiny paint. If you don't have a torch, nows the time....

jb

 

[Destructo_D]

I work for a company that sells teeth, blades, edges, snow chains, sweeper brooms... We sell a tool called "slide sledge". It is a slide hammer type tool that has a variety of attachment, some are designed specific for removing and installing bucket teeth pins....

here is the slide sledge website

Welcome to Slide Sledge LLC

 

[Dougster]

Dougster,

To answer your question, You buy a scrap of 1/4" brass sheet and a hole saw. The "spool" falls out. It's easy when you know the answer....

You said you did a pretty good job of relieving pressures on the pins. For bucket stuff, if it is stuck, my guess is that it is either buggered up (badly) or you didn't do such a good job. A used pin will normally come out pretty easy if it is aligned half decent. For the bucket, you should be able to raise the boom so the bucket is off the ground a couple inches. Then put a sheet of plywood under it and a 2x6 or 2x8 on top. Then slid in some shims to start taking off pressure from the weight of the bucket. CLOSELY watch the bucket pins for any slight motion as you manually slide the shims in. Do this with the curl cylinder disconnected.

You are having issue with the dipper to bucket pin, right? The cylinder/linkage pin should be cake. If the bucket is light, you can beef it around. Use leverage and a 2x4.

With new bushings and pins, the clearance will be about nothing. If you don't have it lined up straight as a laser, and then start whacking it with the BFH, you may just find you are driving out a bushing. BTDT - didn't like it.

For small pins in the 1" to 2" range, I start with a 20oz ball peen hammer, then work to a 3# hand maul then an 8# sledge. The trick isn't to hit it hard, it's to line it up first. If it don't move, use a torch or heat gun on the housing.

The few that got the 8# nudge, the pins were rusted to the bushings solid and had to be heated up to dull red to get them out. Bushing attached to pin driven out as a unit. Hope you don't have to do that as I know you are fond of shiny paint. If you don't have a torch, nows the time....

jb

Perhaps I didn't make it clear enough that the problem I had last time (during installation of the fixed thumb) was due to apparent manufacturing-related misalignment between the various components riding on the bucket pivot pin. It was not caused by previous pin abuse (it had never been apart before), lack of lubricant (trust me, there was plenty) or excessive residual load on the pivot pin (Contrary to some perceptions here, I am a fairly careful, patient and methodical man when it comes to making such mods/repairs).

Cylinder rod replacement will require removal of the dipper link. We'll just have to see how that one goes... but you are right. While I do own one, I do not plan to take a torch to any part of the backhoe.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

I work for a company that sells teeth, blades, edges, snow chains, sweeper brooms... We sell a tool called "slide sledge". It is a slide hammer type tool that has a variety of attachment, some are designed specific for removing and installing bucket teeth pins....
here is the slide sledge website
Welcome to Slide Sledge LLC

Interesting... albeit slightly over the top... video. I would like one of these just to change bucket teeth! It would be interesting to try it out on pivot pins as well, but I'll bet it isn't a cheap tool to buy.

I wonder if they can be rented somewhere to try out first???

Dougster

 

[john_bud]

Could the issue have been a slightly bent pin? That makes life interesting, for sure!

 

[Dougster]

Could the issue have been a slightly bent pin? That makes life interesting, for sure!

I don't think so. That is one heck of a pin!!! That work was also done before my "rockscape" job. That's the only job I've done so far that had the potential to damage the backhoe to any great degree.

No, I'm still convinced that it was mostly manufacturing-related misalignments, probably worst between the bucket pivot pin hole and bucket link mounting holes (which remained connected). It was pretty obvious to the naked eye once the original pin was removed... and even the drilling of the thumb itself was off a little. It's actually quite amazing that we managed to get the new pin inserted without an even bigger fight.

Dougster