Tires Removing loaded tires

[Diggin It]

If you get it lifted just a small amount so the tractor weight is off the rim once it's unbolted you can walk it off the studs and roll it to some were to let it stand up.

I'd strongly recommend a bottle jack and safety stands instead of relying on the BH jacks.

Basically you want to take the load off the tire but not lift it off the ground. Roll the tire out and back into place. The bottle jack will give you fine control over the tractor height for getting the lugs in place.

If you have a smooth concrete floor to work from you life will be much easier.

Mine are a lot smaller, but that's what I did. Just enough off the ground to relieve the weight, then wiggle, walk and roll.

BH is kind of in the way to do that when I have it on, so I used a floor jack, then blocked.

Do you have a 2nd tractor with pallet fork or bale spear? I usually drive the fork right into the center of the rim, then wiggle the tire/rim onto the fork/spear. Then you can carefully curl the fork upward slightly back up slowly and drive it away.

Second tractor or other machine would make it a whole lot easier. The big tires are too heavy to handle, even if not loaded.

 

[5030]

The usual cause of stress cracks around the mounting bolts is, the bolts have backed out and the rim center is flexing against the mounting flange. I check the prevailing torque on mine regularly. Usually you can hear it as a popping sound, but sometimes not. I might add that once you dismount and remount the wheel you need to torque them to the value in your owners manual and then recheck them once again after a few hours use. In my case the prevailing torque is 175 foot pounds but yours will be different and probably less.

Just like a car rim, you always recheck the torque on the lug nuts after driving it a few miles.

A competent welder can weld the cracks but I'd recommend a new center instead.

 

[LouNY]

Lou... Kubota's of that size might have 2 location studs and the rest are screw in fine threaded lug bolts. I say might because neither of mine have them, all screw in bolts in fine thread and I always put them in 'wet', never dry. The fine threaded bolts really like to cross thread into the mating flange. Been there and did that and had to borrow the flange tap from my dealer to chase the threads. Kubota actually has an alignment tool to facilitate the mounting but I've found it just as easy to line up the flange and the rim using bottle jacks under the axle castings. I would never consider using a BH to line the axle flange up. There is no way you could 'modulate' the lift pads on the BH to achieve the alignment required to start the bolts in and have them thread properly.

Looking at the pictures his rims have two studs with nuts and the others are lug bolts.
I utterly detest these manufactures that mount a wheel with lug bolts only.
Every time I have to work on one of those (like my wifes little jeep) or (my brothers old WD) I always get a couple of long bolts with the proper threads, cut the heads off and then put a screwdriver slot in the cut end and bevel it a bit.
Then I have stud to use to line up a wheel makes things so much easier.
My vehicles and equipment have a silver sheen in many places almost every threaded fastener or slip fit gets never-seize on it.

 

[5030]

I very rarely dismount anyway and if I do, I call my farm tire guy and he does it with his truck mount crane. I don't like handling large ag tires in the first place. Leave that up to the young bucks.

 

[LouNY]

Our tire guys are busy and high priced, between brothers and nephews and other tractors and loaders we do a lot of ours ourselfs.
Most of the tires on the farm are dry and depending on the issue we can break a tire down on the tractor and install a plug patch and or boot if needed and be back working in a few hours. Usually we will swap tractors around to get the priority work done then do the needed repairs in the next day or two and get it back in service. The few liquid filled tires it's a toss up if we do them or call the tires service.

Edit added this;
We seldom take a tire clear of the rim and any rear tractor tire is usually done on the tractor.
The smaller 2wd fronts get removed and often taken to town for repair on tire machines.

 

[hosspuller]

Just to emphasize the previous posters... Don't rely on hydraulics (Jacks or backhoe) to hold the tractor. Always use stands or (my preferred) wood blocking. Especially when you're wiggling or manhandling heavy parts on or off the tractor. A falling Tire is one disaster, a falling tractor is several disasters at once.

 

[big bubba]

the days of my wrestling loaded rears are over. i hire a mobile tractor tire service to do the job on site. my rear tires are quite large. good luck & follow the above safety recommendations

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Is it a 2 piece wheel? If so, you can just order the center disc. Other wise, the complete rim needs to be replaced. I have seen a a piece of steel welded into the center.

Yes, it’s the 2 piece. Just worried about the weight and keeping the tire upright.
I was thinking of a frame on a pallet to strap the tire to, and then using pallet Jack to finely lift the tire off the 2 studs.

 

[Carl_NH]

If you have a come along and a beam overhead wrap the cable or strap around the wheel and put enough tension to hold upright then use the pallet jack to lift a bit and roll back. You don't need a lot of clearance - just a few " off the studs.

 

[Hay Dude]

Just went through this experience in late June. Blow baler tire. She went to the ground in about 1 minute. Took 3 bottle jacks on aluminum plates and a truckload of blocks.

Took a couple days. All done in the rain and mud, of course.