removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings

   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings #11  
If they're large cylinders that isn't bad. Breaking the threaded section inside the cylinder could cause it to shoot out. Other than that the gland seal around the rod can be damaged costing money and can shoot out high pressure hyd fluid.
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings #12  
Here's some stuff that may help you in addition to the good stuff you've already gotten - Plus, everyone can now refer to item #'s so we're all on the same page... Steve

They went in backwards - right click on the right image first, open it in a new tab, then the left one. Click the + sign on each one and the print should be legible.

By the time you get the other three cyl's done, you'll be a pro...
 

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   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings #13  
BTW, the comments (mine) on the diagrams represent the WORST case I've run into - most of my cylinders were MUCH easier in a lot of ways.

However, when I redid the stabilizers, BOTH of the cylinders had dings in the cylinder body right where the gland nut threads into the cylinder - by the time I got them apart, the threads on both glands were rolled over. A local machinist cleaned up the surfaces and threads for about $35 each, IIRC.

Basically, you won't know how hard your particular beast is gonna fight you til it's over... Steve
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings
  • Thread Starter
#14  
ok....so today we were able to remove 3 of the cylinders and re pack them...only thing we couldnt get off was the nut from the back of the cylinder which we took to an auto repair shop and they took them right off for us...and later put them back on....wasn't soo bad...just got alot of oil on me...soooo now the 4th one we wanted to replace was the cylinder for the bucket...the one on the top closest to the bucket...and these pins are different...they have bushings in them or something...we spent like 3 hours trying to get them off...there has to be a trick....what is it?? I'm frustrated
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings #15  
Take a couple pics and post them. We might be able to see what's keeping them in.
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings
  • Thread Starter
#16  
we took the retention clips off and the washer....with all the wacking...it seems that one of the bushings has now covered the groove that the retention clip is supposed to fit in.
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings
  • Thread Starter
#17  
how should the bucket be positioned? could it be causing too much pressure to get the pin out?---if we can't get this pin out can we cut it with a sawzall??
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings #18  
Try and get all the pressure off it and if possible to where you can rattle the connections. Pins are usually hardened so a saw all will take a long time. Take a long punch or piece of pipe and hit it out with a good hammer. Usually there is an e clip or pin through a retainer to remove hold the other pin.
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings
  • Thread Starter
#19  
how long in your opinion do you think it would take to cut through a pin...it may be my only option at this point
 
   / removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings #20  
how should the bucket be positioned? could it be causing too much pressure to get the pin out?---if we can't get this pin out can we cut it with a sawzall??

If you got both hyd hoses disconnected the bucket should rest at a neutral position causing no pressure on the pin. Once you got all the clips and retainers removed just keep oiling and beating.

I wouldn't cut the pin because the piece that is stuck is eventually gonna have to be beaten out sooner or later to be able to reuse the cylinder.
 

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