removing the arm from the stabalizers in order to change the leaky rings
- Thread starter Annette75
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Leejohn
Elite Member
Is there some reason you can't get some pictures for the guys that are helping? Sure would make it easier.
wdchyd
Elite Member
Bigger hammer, less whacks is better.....it may lessen the tendency to mushroom out the pin
I like to use a piece of steel pin (slightly smaller than the pin you are removing, maybe 10" long) and weld a scrap piece of pipe (on a 90 deg ) about 4 feet long for a handle......that way the guy holding the pin will be a safe distance away from the guy with the sledge-hammer
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,753
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
If we're still talking about the hoe (not the loader bucket) then I would NOT remove the pin at the upper end of the cylinder if you can help it, UNLESS you plan on replacing the hoses at the same time - on these models, the hydraulic hoses are run INSIDE the knee joint between the boom and the dipper - they come out of the rear of the cylinder and dive down thru a too-small hole in the dipper arm. See the second picture. If you pull that pin, and jerk too much on the cylinder, you may end up damaging the hose ends or worse, and then you'll find out how much fun re-hosing can be.
Better if you can just remove the rod-end pin, loosen the two hoses to that cylinder and pull the rod/piston out with the cylinder body still attached.
Probably the easiest place to loosen the hoses would be, looking at the first picture, at the upper end of the two metal lines that run parallel to the boom, UNDER the dipper cylinder. It's not possible to loosen them at the cylinder without going thru the hassle of unpinning, then collapsing WHILE lifting the upper end. Only way I found that works to do THAT, is CAREFULLY with power ON, before anything is disconnected.
Helpful tools for re-seal in place - some kind of bar or rod to put thru the rod end, so you can pull AND twist at the same time - better, something solid to hook a come-along to, and pull the rod that way.
Getting pins out - large snap-ring pliers, a piece of cold-rolled steel rod 1" or larger in diameter and 8 to 12 inches long, a 4 to 8 pound hammer. Better - an air chisel, take the longest bit that comes with it, cut it off with an abrasive disk so it's end is FLAT, and drive the pin out. This is one of my "most favoritest" sneakinesses :licking:
If that pin doesn't wanna move, there may still be tension on it - these things can settle and change if you're not careful, even after you've wiggled all the levers, etc - notice in the first and third pix, all the chains and binders? In this case, I was NOT rebuilding cylinders but replacing hoses. Still, the ONLY safe way I've found to do EITHER job is to first IMMOBILIZE EVERYTHING that could possibly move, THEN wiggle all levers again, several times, THEN loosen any hose fittings that could lock your target hydraulically (5-gallon bucket goes under the fittings first :=)
Remember, when all your controls are in neutral, there should be NO POSSIBILITY of fluid flow in ANY cylinder - so to get one out of its barrel, you need to break the circuit at BOTH ends of the cylinder, between it and its control valve. Otherwise, you will either be trying to COMPRESS an un-compressible fluid, or trying to PULL A VACUUM on a closed volume. Neither is fun (or possible) without SOMETHING breaking - usually it's the HUMAN element that loses.
So far, it sounds like you've had exceptional good luck at the first three - If I'm "preaching to the choir" on any of this, just ignore it. If anything I've said saves you from damaged body (or backhoe) parts, then it's worth feeling insulted, beats feeling hurt or worse.
Best of luck tomorrow... Steve
Last 2 guys posted while I was re-sizing pix, sorry about repeating some of what they said...
Better if you can just remove the rod-end pin, loosen the two hoses to that cylinder and pull the rod/piston out with the cylinder body still attached.
Probably the easiest place to loosen the hoses would be, looking at the first picture, at the upper end of the two metal lines that run parallel to the boom, UNDER the dipper cylinder. It's not possible to loosen them at the cylinder without going thru the hassle of unpinning, then collapsing WHILE lifting the upper end. Only way I found that works to do THAT, is CAREFULLY with power ON, before anything is disconnected.
Helpful tools for re-seal in place - some kind of bar or rod to put thru the rod end, so you can pull AND twist at the same time - better, something solid to hook a come-along to, and pull the rod that way.
Getting pins out - large snap-ring pliers, a piece of cold-rolled steel rod 1" or larger in diameter and 8 to 12 inches long, a 4 to 8 pound hammer. Better - an air chisel, take the longest bit that comes with it, cut it off with an abrasive disk so it's end is FLAT, and drive the pin out. This is one of my "most favoritest" sneakinesses :licking:
If that pin doesn't wanna move, there may still be tension on it - these things can settle and change if you're not careful, even after you've wiggled all the levers, etc - notice in the first and third pix, all the chains and binders? In this case, I was NOT rebuilding cylinders but replacing hoses. Still, the ONLY safe way I've found to do EITHER job is to first IMMOBILIZE EVERYTHING that could possibly move, THEN wiggle all levers again, several times, THEN loosen any hose fittings that could lock your target hydraulically (5-gallon bucket goes under the fittings first :=)
Remember, when all your controls are in neutral, there should be NO POSSIBILITY of fluid flow in ANY cylinder - so to get one out of its barrel, you need to break the circuit at BOTH ends of the cylinder, between it and its control valve. Otherwise, you will either be trying to COMPRESS an un-compressible fluid, or trying to PULL A VACUUM on a closed volume. Neither is fun (or possible) without SOMETHING breaking - usually it's the HUMAN element that loses.
So far, it sounds like you've had exceptional good luck at the first three - If I'm "preaching to the choir" on any of this, just ignore it. If anything I've said saves you from damaged body (or backhoe) parts, then it's worth feeling insulted, beats feeling hurt or worse.
Best of luck tomorrow... Steve
Last 2 guys posted while I was re-sizing pix, sorry about repeating some of what they said...
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All done...we actually never got that pin and bearing free...took some advice from those pics and took it apart from the back side...only problem was we couldn't remove the piston from the tractor, so we couldn't bring it to the mechanic shop to take the nut off with an impact wrench...he was kind enough to lend us a cordless 3/4 impact gun and an 1 1/2 socket to remove it our selves. We will have to deal with that pin for the bucket eventually but it won for now...Thank you all so much for your pictures and advice...
...Steve