Repair Common Kioti Mechanical Injection Pump Failure

[L2250]

I got the the new gears, they have a timing mark on them that lines up with the lines on the control rack. The plunger goes in with the slot facing to the left. I would suggest moving the Teflon bushing in the pump where the solenoid goes a little to the right to install the injection pump just to male sure it does not contact the control rack during installation. Once the pump and the return spring on the left are installed you can use a small screw driver to make sure the rack moves freely and there is spring pressure on it by inserting the screwdriver into the hole for the solenoid switch. Once everything is re installed , bleed the system of air and then start it .
Thanks you to the original poster and all who replied, you saved me and others alot of money The cost for this repair at the dealer would be around $3000 Canadian (2200 US) , my cost was $91 for the gears and shipping and roughly 3 hrs easy labour.

 

[L2250]

Like your post. Just a little added info. My tractor is a Kabota L2250DT 1985 model. My gears are metal and the timing mark is not on the gears but a small knotch on the end of the barrel. You say slot facing left...(can I assume the pump is laying on its back with the control rack on the top side.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U HAVE TO GET NEW GEARS.!! Period..

 

[ritcheyvs]

An important detail is to keep all the parts from each cylinder together and ensure they go back in the same hole. If you do that and only replace the control sleeves (aka gears) the reassembled pump should still be calibrated. If you mix them up you might get lucky or you might need an expensive trip to a real Diesel shop that has a calibration bench. The plungers and sleeves, in particular, are matched sets, very close tolerances.

 

[Slackdaddy]

Video does not show the orientation of the plunger. It can go either way (180 degs.) and it will make a difference. If wrong it could allow a flow of fuel even in the off position. RUN AWAY ENGINE!!!

Did not really show which way the slot went,, if you freeze frame it,, looks like the slot is to the left in the orientation of the video?

 

[Alien]

WELL it finally happened to me today. Doing some jobs and suddenly running on 2 cylinders, then one, then stopped. Started up after a few turns but revs quickly died back and stopped again. Tractor is sitting down my paddock. I will tow it home with the Ranger and park it somewhere. Another project too many...
Still, I got around 800 hours on it. Better than some. Wonder what cost for parts in Oz.

 

[ritcheyvs]

If you can remove the loader that makes the repair much easier (i.e. possible without pulling muscles). I just tied my hood to the roll bar instead of removing it from the tractor. Order an intake manifold gasket now, you'll probably need it. Considering the work to remove the injection pump (IP), you should probably replace all control sleeves, not just the broken one. Be sure to reinstall all parts in the original location, don't move/mix parts between cylinders. The actual IP repair is easy compared to removing and reinstalling the IP. There is reason to believe the replacement parts are more durable than the original control sleeves (aka gears). You should be able to source the parts (control sleeves) from any Zexel (Bosch license) Diesel shop. There are multiple US sources, hopefully same there.

 

[Alien]

Thanks for your comments richeyvs. I am a retired mechanic so should be able to manage the job. I have plenty of time. Winter is coming so can give the tractor a break for a while. There are Bosch dealers local so will call them soon.
Unfortunately I can't remove the loader. Loader and Flail Mower are sitting on the ground so towing may be difficult too.

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[ritcheyvs]

When you cycle the key on and off the stop solenoid "slaps" the IP rack and you may be able to move the rack into a position where the engine will run enough to remove the loader. Or the engine might race at full speed so you need to be prepared to kill the engine, like with the clutch or a fuel shutoff of some sort. In my case I was able to get the engine to run enough to remove the loader and move the tractor to a work area. Typically, the rack gets jammed by pieces of the broken gear teeth which may get jarred free by repeated cycling of the stop solenoid.

In the old (like pre 2005) stop solenoid design an external electric solenoid moved the IP rack to the off (zero fuel, full aft) position via external linkages, which were relatively gentle on the IP rack. On the new design (the one that fails) an electric solenoid retracts against spring pressure to allow the engine to run (rack to move freely, based on the throttle springs and centrifugal governor). But when power is switched off that spring-loaded plunger (in the solenoid) can build up speed before it contacts the rack and the resulting shock force can be transmitted to the "gears" (which are brittle). I suspect the new gears are tougher because later (post 2008) models don't seem to have the problem.

 

[Alien]

What the? I took the scooter down the paddock to the tractor thinking I could try winding it over to lift the FEL and Flail so I could tow it home. It started and ran perfectly??? I drove it home and no issues. I stopped it in the barn and restarted it and revved it up and no problem. I am mystified so maybe dodged a bullet but unsure why. It has never played up since I bought it new in 2006.
Anyway I walked back down to the scooter and my Pug thought I had abandoned him. He had climbed off the scooter and had started walking home.
Keeping my fingers crossed for a few more hours.