Repair Common Kioti Mechanical Injection Pump Failure

[gravel13]

A flashlight will be your friend when trying to reassemble it. I thought I had mine all lined up when I reinstalled the gears and put everything back together as the tractor started right up but then as soon as I tried to drive out of my shed it started to run like crap and lots of black smoke. Parked it, disassembled it all and then used a flashlight while reassembling to see that the marks were all aligned this time, reinstalled everything and bingo, runs great.

ETA: The IP removal and DIY from neches was huge help as well as this forum.

 

[dusty79]

Awesome , I can't see anything on my current gears. The plungers will go in 2 ways as well, what is the correct position to reinstall them.? I am pretty sure I have them laid out correctly but since it is such a "fun " job I want to try and do it only once. Thank you .

 

[dusty79]

A flashlight will be your friend when trying to reassemble it. I thought I had mine all lined up when I reinstalled the gears and put everything back together as the tractor started right up but then as soon as I tried to drive out of my shed it started to run like crap and lots of black smoke. Parked it, disassembled it all and then used a flashlight while reassembling to see that the marks were all aligned this time, reinstalled everything and bingo, runs great.

ETA: The IP removal and DIY from neches was huge help as well as this forum.

I seen that post and it pointed me in the right direction as I didn't really want to rip the pump apart without some decent research. He covered everything in his post except the timing , my rack was stuck and of course the last gear I removed was the one broken so placement of the rack to gears and plunger direction may not be correct for install. Thank you

 

[gravel13]

Maybe THIS thread can help. It has been a while since I did mine and I just remember going slow and keeping all the parts for each gear/plunger/spring/sleeve together.

ETA: you do have a shop manual to help you along right? If not IM me as I believe I have an electronic copy of it saved I can send you.

 

[dusty79]

Maybe THIS thread can help. It has been a while since I did mine and I just remember going slow and keeping all the parts for each gear/plunger/spring/sleeve together.

ETA: you do have a shop manual to help you along right? If not IM me as I believe I have an electronic copy of it saved I can send you.

 

[dusty79]

No manual, these are pretty basic to work on it is just the injection pump system that can give issues on anything and need specific info that varies from one to the other. A friend works at the local Kioti dealer and his books do not show anything other than replacement of the pump. Anything I have run into mechanically that I don't have books for I use the net and it has treated me well. I have a 6.0 diesel with 400k on it so fear is not an issue for me . Lol If your manual has the injection pump rebuild info in it then I would certainly appreciate and help it can give me. Thanks for the reply .

 

[gravel13]

Not sure they count as pump rebuild info but they do show the gears, plunger and somewhat the orientation.


ETA: removed pics of manual due to copy right infringement.

 

[dusty79]

I got the the new gears, they have a timing mark on them that lines up with the lines on the control rack. The plunger goes in with the slot facing to the left. I would suggest moving the Teflon bushing in the pump where the solenoid goes a little to the right to install the injection pump just to male sure it does not contact the control rack during installation. Once the pump and the return spring on the left are installed you can use a small screw driver to make sure the rack moves freely and there is spring pressure on it by inserting the screwdriver into the hole for the solenoid switch. Once everything is re installed , bleed the system of air and then start it .
Thanks you to the original poster and all who replied, you saved me and others alot of money The cost for this repair at the dealer would be around $3000 Canadian (2200 US) , my cost was $91 for the gears and shipping and roughly 3 hrs easy labour.

 

[L2250]

After reviewing this forum and a few other websites, I finally found the information I needed to repair my Kioti CK25 Fuel Injection Pump. It was the usual issue, the gear teeth were broken and the rack was stuck.

I ordered the parts from Moose Diesel. The 3 gears were less than $100. I would call them first to make sure the parts are in stock. Here's the link:

https://moosediesel.com/collections/ag-industrial/products/kioti-ck-dk-rebuild-kit

A big thank you to 2881Neches for the excellent tutorial and photos that has been around for some time now and I'm sure many people have benefitted from.

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Here is also a youtube video by tractors&marine MECHANIC that does a very good job of demonstrating how to take a 3 cylinder Zexel (or very similar) injection pump apart and put it back together.

It took about a week to get the parts and I spent about 3 days researching the issue and how to repair it, but it only took about 15 minutes to actually take the pump apart and put it back together with the new gears. Just make sure the rack that turns the gears slides back and forth freely before putting the IP back in the tractor. You might have to take some emory cloth to it like I did and smooth out any scratches or gouges that were made by the broken gear teeth.

 

[L2250]

Video does not show the orientation of the plunger. It can go either way (180 degs.) and it will make a difference. If wrong it could allow a flow of fuel even in the off position. RUN AWAY ENGINE!!!

 

[L2250]

I got the the new gears, they have a timing mark on them that lines up with the lines on the control rack. The plunger goes in with the slot facing to the left. I would suggest moving the Teflon bushing in the pump where the solenoid goes a little to the right to install the injection pump just to male sure it does not contact the control rack during installation. Once the pump and the return spring on the left are installed you can use a small screw driver to make sure the rack moves freely and there is spring pressure on it by inserting the screwdriver into the hole for the solenoid switch. Once everything is re installed , bleed the system of air and then start it .
Thanks you to the original poster and all who replied, you saved me and others alot of money The cost for this repair at the dealer would be around $3000 Canadian (2200 US) , my cost was $91 for the gears and shipping and roughly 3 hrs easy labour.

 

[L2250]

Like your post. Just a little added info. My tractor is a Kabota L2250DT 1985 model. My gears are metal and the timing mark is not on the gears but a small knotch on the end of the barrel. You say slot facing left...(can I assume the pump is laying on its back with the control rack on the top side.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U HAVE TO GET NEW GEARS.!! Period..

 

[ritcheyvs]

An important detail is to keep all the parts from each cylinder together and ensure they go back in the same hole. If you do that and only replace the control sleeves (aka gears) the reassembled pump should still be calibrated. If you mix them up you might get lucky or you might need an expensive trip to a real Diesel shop that has a calibration bench. The plungers and sleeves, in particular, are matched sets, very close tolerances.

 

[Slackdaddy]

Video does not show the orientation of the plunger. It can go either way (180 degs.) and it will make a difference. If wrong it could allow a flow of fuel even in the off position. RUN AWAY ENGINE!!!

Did not really show which way the slot went,, if you freeze frame it,, looks like the slot is to the left in the orientation of the video?

 

[Alien]

WELL it finally happened to me today. Doing some jobs and suddenly running on 2 cylinders, then one, then stopped. Started up after a few turns but revs quickly died back and stopped again. Tractor is sitting down my paddock. I will tow it home with the Ranger and park it somewhere. Another project too many...
Still, I got around 800 hours on it. Better than some. Wonder what cost for parts in Oz.

 

[ritcheyvs]

If you can remove the loader that makes the repair much easier (i.e. possible without pulling muscles). I just tied my hood to the roll bar instead of removing it from the tractor. Order an intake manifold gasket now, you'll probably need it. Considering the work to remove the injection pump (IP), you should probably replace all control sleeves, not just the broken one. Be sure to reinstall all parts in the original location, don't move/mix parts between cylinders. The actual IP repair is easy compared to removing and reinstalling the IP. There is reason to believe the replacement parts are more durable than the original control sleeves (aka gears). You should be able to source the parts (control sleeves) from any Zexel (Bosch license) Diesel shop. There are multiple US sources, hopefully same there.

 

[Alien]

Thanks for your comments richeyvs. I am a retired mechanic so should be able to manage the job. I have plenty of time. Winter is coming so can give the tractor a break for a while. There are Bosch dealers local so will call them soon.
Unfortunately I can't remove the loader. Loader and Flail Mower are sitting on the ground so towing may be difficult too.

​

 

[ritcheyvs]

When you cycle the key on and off the stop solenoid "slaps" the IP rack and you may be able to move the rack into a position where the engine will run enough to remove the loader. Or the engine might race at full speed so you need to be prepared to kill the engine, like with the clutch or a fuel shutoff of some sort. In my case I was able to get the engine to run enough to remove the loader and move the tractor to a work area. Typically, the rack gets jammed by pieces of the broken gear teeth which may get jarred free by repeated cycling of the stop solenoid.

In the old (like pre 2005) stop solenoid design an external electric solenoid moved the IP rack to the off (zero fuel, full aft) position via external linkages, which were relatively gentle on the IP rack. On the new design (the one that fails) an electric solenoid retracts against spring pressure to allow the engine to run (rack to move freely, based on the throttle springs and centrifugal governor). But when power is switched off that spring-loaded plunger (in the solenoid) can build up speed before it contacts the rack and the resulting shock force can be transmitted to the "gears" (which are brittle). I suspect the new gears are tougher because later (post 2008) models don't seem to have the problem.

 

[Alien]

What the? I took the scooter down the paddock to the tractor thinking I could try winding it over to lift the FEL and Flail so I could tow it home. It started and ran perfectly??? I drove it home and no issues. I stopped it in the barn and restarted it and revved it up and no problem. I am mystified so maybe dodged a bullet but unsure why. It has never played up since I bought it new in 2006.
Anyway I walked back down to the scooter and my Pug thought I had abandoned him. He had climbed off the scooter and had started walking home.
Keeping my fingers crossed for a few more hours.