Repair/mechanic tricks and or tips?

[Bird]

small cosmetic mirror from dollar store

I'm sure you know they make some little mirrors on telescoping rods specifically for mechanics. But I'm like you. I kept two different sizes of the cheap little mirrors hanging on the peg board in my shop; much cheaper than those mechanics' mirrors.

 

[BTDT]

I'm sure you know they make some little mirrors on telescoping rods specifically for mechanics. But I'm like you. I kept two different sizes of the cheap little mirrors hanging on the peg board in my shop; much cheaper than those mechanics' mirrors.

Exactly, and don't go running to your wife wanting to borrow hers out of her purse, she may question your new found interest in her makeup (mirror).

 

[KYErik]

When working on an engine's cooling system, you can very easily pressure check it for leaks without starting the engine (and before you everything back together, belts on etc).

Fill the system with water and put on the radiator cap. Use a compressed air source to slowly blow air into the overflow tube opening on the radiator. The rad cap has a one way valve and will let air into the system but will only allow air to escape if it is above the cap psi rating when you remove the air source.

Note: you can apply too much pressure and blow hoses, gaskets etc. with this method. Use quick bursts and grab a rad hose with your other hand so you can feel when the system is moderately pressurized.

I replaced a leaky freeze plug today which was in the bell housing area of an engine block. I checked the new one for leaks before I reinstalled the transmission to be sure I wouldn't have to pull the trans all over again if it didn't seat perfectly.

One more thing: TSC sells an ATV jack that works nicely as an inexpensive transmission jack

 

[patrick_g]

Note: you can apply too much pressure and blow hoses, gaskets etc. with this method. Use quick bursts and grab a rad hose with your other hand so you can feel when the system is moderately pressurized.

If you add air slowly won't the cap vent at its rated pressure preventing over pressure to the system?

Pat

 

[Soundguy]

I'm sure you know they make some little mirrors on telescoping rods specifically for mechanics. But I'm like you. I kept two different sizes of the cheap little mirrors hanging on the peg board in my shop; much cheaper than those mechanics' mirrors.

At the flea market i like to get those dental use mirrors.. usually 1$ a piece!

soundguy

 

[KYErik]

If you add air slowly won't the cap vent at its rated pressure preventing over pressure to the system?

Pat

Good question. The reason why it can't vent while you are adding air is that you are blowing air in through the only hole that the air could escape out from. If you over pressurize, the extra pressure can only escape once you have pulled your air source away from the overflow tube opening.

Quick small bursts of air while feeling the pressure in the rad hose is the best way to do this safely.

 

[SpringHollow]

Also setting your air regulator to the vent pressure (or slightly higher) would be a good idea.

ken

 

[patrick_g]

Also setting your air regulator to the vent pressure (or slightly higher) would be a good idea.

ken

Right on, Ken!

Eric, I understood your suggestion re the intermittent pulses of air and perhaps erroneously assumed you didn't have the air chuck/nozzle jammed tightly into the drain tube but made contact intermittently while injecting air. By only making contact intermittently any over pressure would vent.

It is a good technique you have suggested, especially the sort little blasts.

I have a Stant brand toolkit for radiator and radiator cap testing. The one with the gauge and pump and adapters to fit most radiators and caps. You just pump till the system vents and read the gauge. The advantage is you can watch for a while to see if the system leaks down slowly and so know you have a little leak which the test you suggest won't find, especially if the leak is not underwater with the engine off.

Pat

 

[BTDT]

Borrowed this from the "shop ideas" thread posted by Scott.. Great storage ideas for garage/shop/basement.

Small Shop Storage Solutions: More Storage Solutions

 

[patrick_g]

This has saved me lots of hassle. I try to always turn the fuel valve off on my portable generators while they are running and when the engine starts to misfire from fuel starvation I put on the choke to keep it running as long as possible. This runs the carb dry which has a couple benefits:

1. deteriorating fuel can't plug up any little passages in the carb and
2. moving the generator, especially in a vehicle off-road will not continuously slosh fuel and flood the engine.

A stupid mistake I made was to start a genny before taking it into the field just to be sure it was OK and ready to go. It was and started right up. I then drove a quarter mile and couldn't start the genny as I hadn't run it dry and it got flooded. I pulled until I nearly pulled both arms off (alternating arms) and finally got it to run, barely.

Another time my larger electric start genny wouldn't start, not even fire a little. I removed the air filter and wet it with gasoline. (Shake it out so it is dampened but not dripping.) Then replace the filter and cranked the engine. It fired right up and ran for 15-20 seconds, proving the problem was definitely a lack of fuel. getting through the carb. Of course when the air cleaner dries out the engine dies again.

Somehow something in the carb had gotten plugged up. There is a bleed screw in the bottom of the float bowl and it ran clean fuel when loosened. I removed the bowl and raising and lowering the float turned the fuel off and on intermittently as it should.

I siphoned the tank dry and added half a can of Berryman's carb and choke cleaner. I loosened the bleed screw on the bottom of the float bowl until if ran some fuel/Berryman's out. I re tightened the bleed screw and let it soak for a few minutes and then wet the air filter again with gasoline and started the engine to develop vacuum and help suck the Berryman's through the little fuel passages in the carb. I then drained and saved the Berryman's as it is still good. I then added some gas to the tank and it cranked right up and ran fine. I shut it down and let it set for a few minutes and later it started right up, problem solved with no disassembly of the carb except fussing with the float bowl.

While I was playing with Berrymans I put a little through the manual start genny as a preventative measure. I have 4 chain saws and will be using them again soon and will put a dose of Berryman's through each of them. In the past when a saw got balky or didn't seem to be up to par with no real explanation at hand, normal full power was restored by running a liittle Berryman's through with a partial tank of fuel. That takes less Berryman's than doping a full tank and I don't like to over do it. It isn't necessarily the total amount of additive that gets the job done it is the concentration. Running briefly on a stronger mix of Berryman's seems to do better than a long run with a weak mix.

STABIL is a gooooood idea for generators, chain saws and other intermittently used gas powered thingies.

Pat