Repair/mechanic tricks and or tips?

[Rch]

Stainless steel magnetic saucer. These are china cheapos, anywhere from the size of a plate or saucer, that have a magnet encased in rubber under a stainless steel plate to put parts in as you take something apart.

I keep one on the steel fender of my tractor for 3 point hook-up pins and clips. We have all had the experience, especially when working alone, of these gizmos falling off a vibrating/running tractor into the long grass as you are lining up the 3 point hitch. I have a saucer size one I stick close by the hitch that corral those pins and clips and yet are handy to grab as you wrestle with aligning hitch points.

 

[Zork]

I guess my first tip would be do not try this if you are all thumbs or lack a good level of mechanical ability in engine repair. I have performed this task many times in the past, and it works well if there is no other reason the valve isn't seating properly.

My second tip is I'm not responsible for any consequences AT ALL if someone decides to attempt my third tip.

So, If you have an engine valve seat that is starting to leak (intake or exhaust) but wont help if the guide or stem is worn. Try removing plug or injector and filling cylinder with air from a compressor using an adapter to a compression tool. (Make sure the piston is at the base of its compression stroke/ two valves closed). ADD AIR. IF DURING THE AIR COMPRESSION YOU HEAR LARGE AMOUNTS OF AIR ESCAPING FROM THE VALVE, THE AIR MAY NOT HOLD IT UP, AND YOU MADE NEED TO HAVE THE VALVE AND/OR HEAD REPLACED. Then compress the spring, remove valve keeper and valve seal. Put the valve stem into the chuck of a small drill and tighten it. Make sure that you can still have some up and down motion on the stem. ( this allows for small debris to be blown out of the cylinder and away from valve and seat when you push the stem down during spinning). Put some oil on the valve stem and spin it with the drill. Use slight upward force against head seat and back down again several times to ATTEMPT to seal the valve and clean the seat. Pull drill/ stem combo up until air is stopped and remove drill. DO NOT LET THAT VALVE GO (BUT AIR SHOULD KEEP IT UP) install new valve seal, original spring and keeper (if good). Do a compression check if you like and or start it up. If everything is fine, put the valve cover and gasket on,, and you are ready to motor down the highway or till that field without ducking for cover once in a while. This is a neat trick and it saves big bucks if it is a carbon build up or stiff valve. Have fun

 

[Bird]

Stainless steel magnetic saucer.

My brother used to carry those on the Matco Tool truck and gave me one that I used on the tractor. For those who have never used them, some mechanics stick them, essentially upside down to the bottom side of the hood of a car or pickup, then stick nuts, bolts, and washers in them as they disassemble things under the hood. They have a very strong magnet so everything stays put.

 

[patrick_g]

Carry a can of that "canned air" with your chainsaw tools to blow the sawdust off around the gas and oil filler caps. Works WAY better than blowing on them.

I have a thing we call a rag which does the job cheaper and probably as well with the added bonus of being able to wipe my hands off. Fits into various spaces easier than a aerosol can (hip pocket.) Rags are often available free but if you like hi tech store bought solutions you can buy them in bulk pretty cheap on special at Harbor Freight.

Pat

 

[Egon]

My working shirts are usually in the rag stage so the shirttail works well!

 

[Soundguy]

My old clothes.. shirts, pans, underpants.. etc.. all become rags.. etc..

Slipping an old sock over your hands and then wiping down all your wrenches when putting them away sure speeds up the process.. etc..

soundguy

 

[bx23barry]

My old clothes remain clothes until they are of little use as rags (or anything else)

 

[patrick_g]

My old clothes remain clothes until they are of little use as rags (or anything else)

Me too. When an article of clothing is beyond the stage where I will (can) wear it to get dirty in then it is not a very good rag. The little soft pieces of deteriorating clothing, especially cotton, makes good gun cleaning wipes and barrel cleaning patches.

Put some old cotton cloth in an air tight can and heat to char it good to make tinder to catch sparks to make a fire with flint and steel or one of those magnesium fire starting goodies.

Pat

 

[RedDirt]

When I have to drill a large diameter hole in steel I drill a pilot hole first. The larger drill bit will work much easier/better. And whenever possible I clamp the workpiece to the drill press table, drill the pilot hole, change bits, then drill the large hole. This saves having to re-center the workpiece under the larger bit. A great tool for this clamping is one of the Delta/vise grip type built specifically for a drill press. HF has knock-offs fairly reasonable and work just as well.

Also when burning a hole in steel, especially thick steel, I first drill a small pilot hole. The cutting torch can start the cut much easier on edge material instead of having to blast through the solid unbroken thickness.

A trick for aligning two holes on opposite sides of square/rectangle tube or post: Bolt/screw a plywood "false" table on the drill press table. With the size of bit you need for the hole in the steel (or wood post), drill partway through the false table. Now drill your first hole in the tube steel/wood post. Next insert a dowel (or cut-off bolt) the same diameter as the hole you are drilling into the hole you drilled in the false table. Flip your tube/post over and place the hole you drilled on the dowel. Drill the second hole. Provided your drill press table is square with the press quill and you've kept your workpiece flat on the table, the two holes will be in perfect alignment.

 

[weldingisfun]

When I have to drill a large diameter hole in steel I drill a pilot hole first. The larger drill bit will work much easier/better. And whenever possible I clamp the workpiece to the drill press table, drill the pilot hole, change bits, then drill the large hole. This saves having to re-center the workpiece under the larger bit. A great tool for this clamping is one of the Delta/vise grip type built specifically for a drill press. HF has knock-offs fairly reasonable and work just as well.

Also when burning a hole in steel, especially thick steel, I first drill a small pilot hole. The cutting torch can start the cut much easier on edge material instead of having to blast through the solid unbroken thickness.

A trick for aligning two holes on opposite sides of square/rectangle tube or post: Bolt/screw a plywood "false" table on the drill press table. With the size of bit you need for the hole in the steel (or wood post), drill partway through the false table. Now drill your first hole in the tube steel/wood post. Next insert a dowel (or cut-off bolt) the same diameter as the hole you are drilling into the hole you drilled in the false table. Flip your tube/post over and place the hole you drilled on the dowel. Drill the second hole. Provided your drill press table is square with the press quill and you've kept your workpiece flat on the table, the two holes will be in perfect alignment.

Great idea and one that I will definitely use. Thanks.