Repairing a bracket mount on a 1610D

Ben_Conner · Mar 18, 2005

Hi

I bought a YM 1610D w/ a Koyker FEL from a local dealer who is a Koyker distributor. It worked fine for a couple of months but recently found 3 of the 4 bolts on the back left side sheared off where the FEL attaches to the tractor. He had a separate company install the FEL and brackets, and they used standard quality bolts rather than grade 8. I replaced them with grade 8, but soon found the after-market (?) bracket broke along a bad weld. Looks like it also damaged the tractor housing where the bracket attaches (see www.webworldinc.com/tractor for details).

Any suggestions on how to correct this? In the worst case scenario it looks like I'd have to replace that housing. Where can I find parts like that for a 1610D? Whether the seller is liable for this or not is in question at this point. There may be a difference of opinion--the tractor was sold 'as is', but this was not part of the tractor, per se. But that's a different thread.

Thanks in advance...!

--Ben

Tractors4u · Mar 18, 2005

You can try Fredrick's Equipment at 256-773-9951, he may have a bell housing for a 1610.

What in the world were you doing that broke bolts then later broke the mount and bell housing?

Ben_Conner · Mar 18, 2005

( You can try Fredrick's Equipment at 256-773-9951, he may have a bell housing for a 1610.

What in the world were you doing that broke bolts then later broke the mount and bell housing? )

Scooping dirt in a trench. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Nothing overly tough (that I could tell)) The welds in the bracket were obviously cold welds. The original bolts weren't the best quality, and when they started shearing, I think that put additional stress on the bell housing. Putting good bolts in should have held. Not sure what the root cause of the failure was.

Thanks for the referral!

--Ben

California · Mar 19, 2005

( Any suggestions on how to correct this? )

If you had a warranty then another bellhousing and bracket would be nice. However it sounds like you are on your own to get this fixed, so it might be easier to just make a better left bracket.

In your pictures it appears that twisting force on the crossmember broke the front horizontal hole downward. The rear hole has minor damage upward but should still be fine to carry downward force, not twisting force, after you tap in new threads.

A year ago another Yanmar owner asked for pictures of loader mounts. Here is what I posted in reply. (Later he sent a PM saying he had based his mounts on it.)

See the second photo in my series. There are no horizontal bolts comparable to your busted ones. Rather the vertical force is carried by vertical bolts into the bottom of the transmission like yours but the twisting force on the crossmember goes forward to a bolt under the starter, and back through a long bar to the rear drawbar mount. You might be able to fabricate a better mount based on this example and get that rig back into use. Good luck with this!

Addendum - Someone else posted this reference to Hoye's loader install instructions. The Koyker bracket there, like the one on my Great Bend, has an anti-rotational stiffener that runs forward to bolt to the frame under the starter. I think such a stiffener is essential.

normde2001 · Mar 19, 2005

As California said, with the addition of that rotational stiffener as shown in the Hoye sequence, and depending on the cost and availability of a bell housing, you could probably drill deeper and tap the existing holes, even clear through, if need be. (I would split it, before drilling through, however). If you make a cardboard template of the additional piece you need, a good machine/welding shop could fabricate and repair your bracket to be usable.

Ben_Conner · Mar 19, 2005

Thanks, guys! This gives me some great ideas on how to approach this. I was looking at having to r&r the bell housing but now I may not have to. I'll let you know how it goes.

--Ben

bruce1966us · Mar 19, 2005

I thought Koyker had a belly bracket that attached to the 4 bolts underneath for added stability. What model loader do you have? 110/80?

PoconoMan · Mar 19, 2005

Here's what I would do: First looking at this picture:

it looks like the boss on the right side has a little to work with. I would make a plate similar to this:

(some welding will be needed) to the needed size and drill out the correct bolt hole locations as needed. The angled plate on the side I drew (may need to be altered to fit in that location, not an angle in other words) will attach to the bolts that was not used during the initial installation. (the bellhousing bolt below the left side broken boss and the one above it) I would go as far as removing that bottom bolt, drilling out the threads since it goes straight through and put a larger grade 8 bolt and nut and lock washer in it's place, like the one above it, a 3/8 bolt would be the next size up judging by the photo. There will be a less likely chance of hurting anything but the bolt if things go bad later. I would then either drill and bolt (if accessible) or weld this to the original bracket. Use a longer bolt for the top as needed. Have that broken bracket re-welded back on with some angle iron reinforcement and check all other welds and bolts for tightness. In that one photo you provided, the hole looks like it's a little worn from a loose bolt allowing the bracket to move around. Nothing will snap off a bolt faster then it not being tight against it's mounting surface.

I hope this makes sense, if not, let me know and I'll try and explain it better.

PM

bruce1966us · Mar 19, 2005

Also, I would go with grade 5 bolts. I had rather them shear than do damage to the housing again.

lens12 · Mar 19, 2005

Koyker makes a YM1610 mounting kit for both the 110 & 80 , so ut wouldn't have been necessary to fabricate a bracket for your tractor. The kits include the correct bolts also. I would use the harder bolts. I suspect that the bolts had loosened some . Tight hardened bolts would not break or pull out the threads. If the bolts had loosened , it probably would not be covered by a warranty. I do have a YM1610d parts tractor, but I think you should be able to mount the loader using the additional mount points that others have suggested.

bruce1966us · Mar 20, 2005

I'd have to look, but I don't think Koyker sends grade 8 hardened bolts (with the hardware kit) to use to mount the bracket.

DavesTractor · Mar 20, 2005

I believe Koyker uses 8.8's, which should be equivalent to grade 5's. I think 10.9 is closer to grade 8.

Ben_Conner · Mar 20, 2005

( I thought Koyker had a belly bracket that attached to the 4 bolts underneath for added stability. What model loader do you have? 110/80? )
It's a 110. Had to clean up my office before I could find the paperwork on it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--Ben

Ben_Conner · Mar 20, 2005

( Nothing will snap off a bolt faster then it not being tight against it's mounting surface. )
Speaking of that, what would be a good torque spec for these bolts?

normde2001 · Mar 21, 2005

After taking a second look at the broken bell housing, I have to agree with Len about the loose bolts. It appears that the threads have been worn away as if by a loose and wobbly bolt. Here is a torque spec site for US threads you can convert to metric. I'm sure there are others.

Ben_Conner · Mar 21, 2005

Hi,

Found a local machine shop that works on a lot of tractors. The owner says they won't have any problems fixing the holes (other than the one that broke out), and they can extend the brackets to reinforce them. Thanks to all who responded--I've never gotten this much good advice on anything! 'preciate it!

--Ben

evofxdwg · Mar 30, 2005

I agree loose bolts probably led to breakage of the casting. But I dont believe you have enough anti-torque reinforcement on those brackets - even if you rebuild as described in the thread!

I went out and looked at my 1610D/Koyer 80 mounts. I believe you will have trouble again if you do not put a long reinforcing arm to the frame rails. You can see the brackets with reinforcing arms in the Hoye install pix. They are about a foot long and will do more to counteract twisting force (torque) than any of the bolts close to the main bracket member. Mine have this (and look even beefier than the ones in the Hoy pix) and a bottom plate that passes under the driveshaft connecting the two belly brackets together. Also, my brackets have a long, thick stiffener bars from the TOP of the bracket assembly (near where the cylinder connects) down to the front bumper of the tractor, welded to a round bar captured in a channel bolted to the front bumper. So there are two anti-torque arms on each side of mine - one at bottom and a big long one on the top. My brackets are the quick disconnect type and have Koyker part numbers on them.

After several weekends of use, i checked over my FEL mounting bolts and to my surprise, found 2 missing from the bottom plate and 3 others loose. Two of the bolts that were loose were already boogered up so they needed replacement - they were the ones that broke out on yours. Obvously the installer had not finsished the job (didnt tighten). I think i was just lucky that i caught it in time.

Jagmandave · Mar 30, 2005

Maybe a little blue Locktite is in order here, to keep this from happening again? The main pins for my 3ph kept coming loose over the summer, a little Locktite took care of the problem for me............