Repairing Hog Damage.

   / Repairing Hog Damage.
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Buford. how much acreage we talking? You can lease your hog hunting rights out to Alabama hog control , Barry Estes. He does trapping and has all the state permits etc for guided night hunts and will eradicate all he can.

My place is too small for that. Thanks, anyway.
 
   / Repairing Hog Damage. #42  
did not read every post. if duplicate my bad.

road grader if you have enough land.

if not then perhaps DIY something up. were you can get a long distance between rear tractor wheels. and gauge wheels even a lot further back. and placing a rear blade or box blade in between rear tractor tires and the gauge wheels further back.

saw a couple folks use old frame from a truck. still had 4 wheels and axles on it. but just dropped a 3pt hitch rear blade down in the center. to use it as a pull "road grader".

there are a few folks here on TBN. that have used 2x4's up to 6x6's to metal beams to make a long beam and hung a rear blade from.

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box blades and rear blades hooking up to back of tractor 3pt hitch is all fine. and do a great amount of work. UNTIL. you start picking up MPH and then you fill the lower and high spots that are much more gradual and less noticeable.

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with above said if you can fill in the slop holes filled in. run plow through it to get a few inches deep, and then disc it all, and then reseed if you need to, perhaps even roll it. you are more likely to get same compaction level of soil clear across the field. and smooth it all out.

i would love a road grader even a pull one. i have fixed a few spots here and there. but once you get up into HIGH MPH say 5 to 10 to 15 MPH. you do not dare speak in fear of bitting off tongue. and if you have a FEL full of dirt. the tractor begins bouncing front to back causing even worse bumps... *arghs*

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they do have "push boxes" box blades without the rippers for FEL. if you had something to tear up the ground, and put the FEL into float mode. it might work as a box blade doing within reason.

the push boxes flip 90 degrees (curl / uncurl) of FEL. so you can push or pull pending on direction you are going.
 
   / Repairing Hog Damage. #43  
I know a little bit about hog control, anything you do to fix the damage will be wasted effort until you get rid of them and trapping is the best option currently available. If you want to talk about it, my contact is on my website, Home - Texas Hog Traps. I'd be happy to give you some suggestions using stuff you can get location, it'll require some effort on your part though. I sell a lot to the USDA, you might call your local office and see if they can get a trapper out there for you.
 
   / Repairing Hog Damage.
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Thanks, STx. I have a unique piece of land. My North piece is 96 acres, approximately 800' wide and 1 mile long. My Southern piece is only 36 acres.

I fear that, no matter what I do, I'll never be able to control them. Fencing is not an option as it would be too expensive.

Guess I'll just go back to "Prosecute with extreme prejudice".
 
   / Repairing Hog Damage. #45  
You can't really get rid of them entirely in most places in Texas either. The goal is to put so much pressure on them they become your neighbor's problem, not necessarily nice but, reality unfortunately. Since you can't hunt them at night, you're going to have to start trapping them, box traps will work at first with uneducated hogs but, they'll quickly figure out not to go in those and just tear up everything around them. I would strongly encourage you to build a permanent corral trap on the 36 acres piece (as I read it, that's your main problem right now) and put the hurt on them. You can cheaply build one with 4 combination panels and a dozen t-post. Leave one end not secured and use a wire to pull it open to the inside creating a door and set your trip wire on that. Google figure 6 trap for pictures. I recommend setting up.a camera and not actually aing the trip wire until you have pictures on the full group inside the trap. Then you'll want to bait around the edges as well as at the trigger, the goal being that they filter around the sides and allow time for more pigs to enter before one hits the trip wire. Kill EVERY pig you catch or come across. You'll be able to pressure the survivors off your place for a while. Leave the trap in lace though, that way you're ready to go when they return. It's best if you setup a feeder inside of it, if your laws allow it.

Good luck. Pigs are a real pain. I love to eat them but, I'd never allow them to survive on my place. I had 2 big boars show up last year about 6 weeks apart, the first pigs I've ever seen here in the 24 years my wife and I have been married (this was her dad's land). Both were trapped and at a buyer within a week of their first appearance on the camera.
 

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