Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics

   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics #71  
:)
Edit: that's the neighbor's house in the background, tractor still resides at my parents' house until it's all buttoned up. QUOTE]

Aww geez Shaeff .... and I was just about to ask which boat you're going fishing in today! :laughing::thumbsup:

That's one heavy-calibre mower too! :p

Seriously though, I've been re-reading a couple of older threads and noted how similar to mine your loader is.

This one, though, is actually exactly the same! Only difference is where the three bolts in the front of each arm attach to the tractor - mine has a really heavy cast iron radiator surround (on a different model tractor) to which these also bolt to its sides.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...844-start-up-procedure-mf35-been-img_1571-jpg

Note the arms have channels pressed into their sides to stiffen and strengthen them - you will never ever bend these!

Hey, while I remember, keep a close watch on your LH front wheel - the nuts may well loosen if you're using your loader a bit. Be sure to check them frequently. I haven't had any occurrence of this using just the tractor - only when there is serious weight in the bucket for quite a time - eg loading trucks, repeatedly moving bucketfuls of soil a notable distance etc. Overtightening them does not prevent them coming loose either! :confused: Last Wednesday I retightened it twice, then had it almost come off :mad: Got new studs and nuts, put them in last night because I needed it today. Several holes badly damaged, centre is a bit buckled plus a couple of cracks, looked rather ugly. However it had to work today and seemed to stay tight, plus the centre appears to have flattened out too! :)

I have to take some pics and start a new thread - I can see what the cause is, need to come up with a solution.

Also, are your rear wheels cast, like mine, or pressed steel discs with cast weights?

Update: Worked the machine moving heavy clay & soil for around 6 hrs - checked them three times to find them all reasonably tight. The buckle in the wheel centre seems to have straightened out too! :thumbsup:
 
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   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#72  
Haha! The guy next door works on boats on the side, does a really nice job!

Re: mower- yeah, not bad for $300, right!?

Similarities, absolutely. My cousin (actually the guy next door) has a 1961 MF 202 which he bought after I got mine. It's in much better shape, but it also cost a lot more. His has a MF 102 loader on it, which has the wide bucket like shown above, double dump rams, and the heavy duty cast radiator surround. My radiator surround is the same as the one pictured above. My loader arms (MF99) have those channels pressed into them as well. Originally, I was worried that I had the lighter duty loader (MF99 vs 102), until I realized that mine will do everything and a bit more than my father's 34hp diesel Kubota. I'm no longer worried!

Good eye on watching that front left rim, I'll keep watching it for sure, as this machine will see a lot of loader work around my property. Maybe a touch of blue loctite wold help?

My rear wheels are cast, I believe, and have cast weights bolted on.
 
   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics #73  
Yeah, that's a real scoop for the money. Is that a barrel-type - aka "reel-mower" such as used on golf courses and parks? They do a lovely job!

My loader must then be a MF102 as well - it has the cast radiator protection, twin dump cylinders and a huge bucket - I think its 1/3 cu yd. Filled with wet clay makes it heavy, but its amazing what it will lift, even though the lift cylinders I think are 2 3/4" diameter.

A bit of loctite will find its way onto them if they come loose again, although I don't like dry threads anywhere - causes rust, and only use loctite when I have to. Otherwise I religiously grease threads - they can then be easily dismantled decades later! But the cause is that the wheel centre is not a neat fit on the hub diameter - I suspect the wheel is incorrect, as it isn't original. I'll post some pics to show what I mean, in a new thread.

BTW, check your front wheel bearings and adjust any freeplay out of them. If you need to know how to do this correctly, let me know. Also, its a good idea to inflate the front tyres to around 38-40psi, to handle loader work. :thumbsup:
 
   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#74  
I thought so too. It came with new bearings, even though the old ones are still ok, a whole box of new duckfoot/scoop knives, and a new belt. Couldn't pass it up for that, even if it's in rough shape! I'm not sure if you guys call it something different down there, but we call it a flail mower here. It's got a rotating drum with 36 knife stations that'll hold either 36 scoop knives or 72 side slicers (one pair per station). It's rough for sure, but I'm going to run it as-is for a season after giving it a good service, new knives, gearbox oil, belt, etc... and see how it runs. If it's all good, I'll cut out the rust, weld in new metal and straighten out all the bent bits.

I have a factory Massey book on the 99 loader, grabbed it off eBay for a few dollars. Here's a good site that shows lift capacities of the various loaders:
Model specs (3 pages)

I usually grease threads too. So far every single nut/bolt has easily come off my 35 Utility. Lucky, I guess! It was in disrepair for years!

Front wheel bearings will be checked shortly, and I'll definitely check front tire pressures and make sure they're up for loader work. They are quite bald, though.
 
   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#75  
Well, the tractor is finally done. I ran it for about an hour and a half yesterday just moving things around my parents' house, everything went very well. I also worked on my flail mower a bit. Got all the broken knives replaced, greased it up, and hoped it would be ready to rock. Unfortunately, it looks like the previous owner may have caught a stump with the leading edge, so when I gingerly feathered the clutch to let it wind up slowly some of the knives make contact with the outer leading edge. I'll have to flip it up with the bucket and bend it straight again. Also noticed it needs new bearings for the rear roller. Looks easy enough to replace, so I'm not concerned. I may even be able to get one or two cuttings out of it as-is to make sure it all works before sinking any money into it.
 
   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics #76  
Glad to hear you have her running alright! Hopefully a little more time on that flail mower and it won't be a fail mower anymore lol. Also, we love in progress project pictures so don't be shy with the camera!
 
   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics #77  
Good news mate! You're onto the easy jobs now. :thumbsup:
 
   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#78  
Glad to hear you have her running alright! Hopefully a little more time on that flail mower and it won't be a fail mower anymore lol. Also, we love in progress project pictures so don't be shy with the camera!
Haha! I've got a few ideas on how to repair the flail mower and help prevent this problem in the future. I'll snap some pics next time I get a chance to work on it, but it probably won't be soon, life got busy right quick for the next week or two.


Good news mate! You're onto the easy jobs now. :thumbsup:

I've got a list of stuff I need to do with the tractor. I'll surely post pics as I go for everyone to see. Maybe we could start a MF/working thread? I've got a field to cut down, rocks to move, soil to move and spread, a tree to push out of the yard, etc.

I should see if I can upload the video of when I had the top cover plate off and operating the hydraulic control valve, that was kindof cool to see.
 
   / Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics #80  
Hi Shaeff, are you back on deck yet? :D

How was Hawaii? :thumbsup: I imagine.
 

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