It's on concrete blocks. It's close to the ground though, probably six inches, but none of the wood is on dirt. There are two main 4x6x20's spanning the length of the shed, which support everything else. There are four concrete blocks under each of the 4x6's.
repairing shed prior to moving
- Thread starter aardvark
- Start date
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Well, we lost power at work today, so after sitting around and talking for two hours, my boss told everyone to go home. Put the time to good use and tore the tongue and groove floor up, pulled most of the staples and nails which were left over from the floor, and went and bought the 3/4" PT plywood for the new floor.
All the wood is in pretty good shape except for one spot where the 4x6 was touching dirt. It's rotted a little in the one corner. I'm not going to remove it, I'm jus going to run a couple patch beams along each side up to the front floor cross beams. I'm replacing the cross beams on both the front and rear, and the side beams.
Here's the 4x6 main beam which rotted a little and needs reinforcement. It's not a good picture to show the rot, but you can see it sort of under the soda can and tape measure.
All the wood is in pretty good shape except for one spot where the 4x6 was touching dirt. It's rotted a little in the one corner. I'm not going to remove it, I'm jus going to run a couple patch beams along each side up to the front floor cross beams. I'm replacing the cross beams on both the front and rear, and the side beams.
Here's the 4x6 main beam which rotted a little and needs reinforcement. It's not a good picture to show the rot, but you can see it sort of under the soda can and tape measure.
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MThe beams are still in good shape even after 21 years. This shed was installed, according to the permit, in 1984. Except where the sheetmetal leaked from a previous owner's dumb decisions, and the places there the beams were hitting dirt (one spot on the 4x6 and some spots around the perimeter), the structure is in decent shape. Most of the tongue in groove floor was in good shape too, but it was rotted around the perimeter. I'm planning on re-using the shed's center sections of tongue in groove boards to make a ramp in and out of the shed. I'll double it up so it's 1.5" thick.
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I've been trying to think of the best way to move the shed into it's new location.
I was originally going to re-install the walls on the floor and just drag it with the tractor. After dragging it I was going to install the siding and roof, etc. This would work but frankly the shed is pretty heavy and I think it will be sort of hard to keep keep it from digging into the sand. There's no hard packed dirt down here, just sand.
Then I thought maybe I'd buy four or six of the 625 lb pneumatic casters from Northern and roll the assembled structure, and then install the siding and roof. This would be fine but the casters are $30 each, and I don't really have a use for them when this is done.
Now I'm thinking that I'll drag the base and floor structure with the tractor, and I'll drive my Toyota pickup into the middle of the shed walls and lift the shed on the Toyota and support it with cross beams. Then I can drive the top section across the yard (maybe 250 ft) on the Toyota, set it back down on the 4x4's and blocks exactly the way it is now, and drag the floor back under the shed walls with the tractor. Then I can set the whole thing down and nail the wall footers to the floor with the shed in it's new position. I could also level the floor before I drop the sides and roof onto the floor. Maybe this is an advantage, I don't know.
I was originally going to re-install the walls on the floor and just drag it with the tractor. After dragging it I was going to install the siding and roof, etc. This would work but frankly the shed is pretty heavy and I think it will be sort of hard to keep keep it from digging into the sand. There's no hard packed dirt down here, just sand.
Then I thought maybe I'd buy four or six of the 625 lb pneumatic casters from Northern and roll the assembled structure, and then install the siding and roof. This would be fine but the casters are $30 each, and I don't really have a use for them when this is done.
Now I'm thinking that I'll drag the base and floor structure with the tractor, and I'll drive my Toyota pickup into the middle of the shed walls and lift the shed on the Toyota and support it with cross beams. Then I can drive the top section across the yard (maybe 250 ft) on the Toyota, set it back down on the 4x4's and blocks exactly the way it is now, and drag the floor back under the shed walls with the tractor. Then I can set the whole thing down and nail the wall footers to the floor with the shed in it's new position. I could also level the floor before I drop the sides and roof onto the floor. Maybe this is an advantage, I don't know.
Scozz
Silver Member
Are the locations (present/future) accesable by truck? Might be easiest/cheapest to hire a flat bed for an hour.
Artisan
Veteran Member
That'll keep off the streets for a while!
