Replacing a trailer coupler, shim and go up a size, or grind off, bolt and reweld?

[aczlan]

Bought a 1970s boat trailer (with a boat on it) that has a coupler for a 1 7/8" ball. I am biased against 1 7/8" balls (I don't currently own one and I like it that way), so it will be upgraded to a 2" ball as soon as it gets home.
The trailer tongue is 2 1/2" box tubing with a 2 1/2" coupler welded onto it. The current coupler is 2 3/4" wide on the outside.
Should I completely remove the current coupler (grind off the welds and smooth things out after) and bolt a new 2 1/2" coupler on (with a weld to make sure it stays put), or should I cut off the ball part of the current coupler (so the coupler ends at the end of the box tube, roughly where the red line is in the picture below), add a pair of 1/8" shims to the sides and bolt on a new 3" coupler?


My thought on leaving it would be that it would give a little extra "meat" for the bolts to go through, but I am not sure it would be worth it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[George2615]

Ive done that a few times before. For a long time the smallest coupler I had was a 2". When I got a trailer with 1 7/8" I'd usually unbolt and cut it off if welded, then weld shims on each side of the tubing so the new coupler fit snugly. Then clamp the new coupler in place and drill new holes through the shim plates. Once the new coupler was bolted on I'd add a few welds.
The problem with cutting the existing coupler and placing the new coupler over it is that the bolt holes won't line up.

 

[s219]

If it was me, I'd remove the old one completely and weld the new one on with no bolts if possible. Last time I had one welded on, the shop welded the back edge, the lower edges along the sides, and through the bolt holes. There were no bolts (before or after). I think drilling bolt holes through the tongue tubing can only weaken things.

 

[2458n]

I see the bolt on used for both size hitches. The main reason is most people can run a drill. More people would weld them in addition to bolting if more people had welders. I was told at one time that Ohio required bolts to be used when installing a trailer hitch to a tow vehicle. Did not know if it was true or not. My car trailer has worn the 2 inch ball coupler pretty thin in the last 35 years and it is going to get the cap and shim replacement.

 

[square1]

Get some bait, unload the boat, go fishin', forget about the trailer

 

[Al 2]

Although I like to weld almost everything I bolt on this type of trailer hitch. If it some how gets bent, it's very easy to change as compared to one that is welded on.
Al

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would not cut the coupler.

Chris

 

[aczlan]

I would not cut the coupler.

So you would replace it with another 2 1/2" coupler?

Aaron Z

 

[crazyal]

Why would you want to go with a 3" coupler? I hate 1 7/8" balls too. I have one but the tongue is 2" square tube. The best I could find in a 2" ball was a 2 1/2". So after taking a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutoff wheel I used a couple of washers for spacers. I debated putting a bolt through one of the holes in the top of the couple but didn't have one short enough not to hit the bolt going across so I just welded both of the top holes and the top edge of the coupler to the tube. I would think the only reason to go with a 3" coupler would be for towing capacity. Usually any trailer with a 1 7/8" ball isn't going to be hauling much weight though.

Edit: I did put two pieces of pipe inside the tube so I could tighten down the cross bolts without fear of collapsing the tube.

 

[aczlan]

Why would you want to go with a 3" coupler?

My only thought was that going over the existing (welded on) coupler would give a little more meat for the bolts to grab onto.
The existing coupler is 2 3/4" wide, so I would need a coupler sized for 3" tubing and a 2" ball.

Aaron Z

 

[ModMech]

None of the boat or utility trailers we have ever bought new came with welded couplers, they were all bolted on with two bolts thru the side holes as in your photo.

I am unaware of any failures of a bolted coupler which was installed correctly with good hardware, I see no reason to weld one on, especially since heat cycling metal can affect it's strength; which is why I suspect all were bolted.

 

[aczlan]

None of the boat or utility trailers we have ever bought new came with welded couplers, they were all bolted on with two bolts thru the side holes as in your photo.
I am unaware of any failures of a bolted coupler which was installed correctly with good hardware, I see no reason to weld one on, especially since heat cycling metal can affect it's strength; which is why I suspect all were bolted.

My current plan is to grind the old hitch off, then use two Grade 5 (or possibly Grade 8) bolts through new hitch to hold it in, then a 3rd bolt through the tongue behind the hitch to bolt the new chains on with (the current chains are very small and have a pair of 1/4 or 3/16 "snap links" (like these: Stainless Steel Spring Snap Hook Carabiner 3/16" to 5/16" - 50mm to 80mm - Grade 316 SS | Amazon.com: Outdoor Recreation) to attach them to the tow vehicle).
All three bolts will have a sleeve on the inside so they don't crush the tongue (which sleeve I might tack in so it doesn't move if I need to replace the bolt down the road).
While I have the welder out to tack in the sleeves, I may run a bead around the hitch as a backup but time will tell.

I plan to use Reese Towpower Towing Safety Chains, 5,000 lb., 72 in. Long - Tractor Supply Co. for chains and put a pair of spring hooks (Carry-On Trailer® S Hook, 3-3/4 in. x 6-3/4 in., Pack of 2 - Tractor Supply Co.) on the chains so they dont come loose (that will also allow shortening the chains as needed depending on the tow vehicle).

Aaron Z

 

[Diamondpilot]

So you would replace it with another 2 1/2" coupler?

Aaron Z

I see no problem shiming it as long as it's even side to side. The best option though would be getting the right size coupler for the tongue.

Chris

 

[crazyal]

A 4 1/2" grinder with the thin cut off wheels will easily cut the welds. I guess you could even just cut the square tube off if it's plenty long enough. You most likely would never miss the 4" to 6".

 

[aczlan]

I wont be taking any length off, its barely long enough as it is, leaning towards just removing the existing coupler and installing a new 2.5" coupler.

Aaron Z