Replacing O ring on loader

[jddodge]

Hello

I am in the process of replacing O ring on my Kubota 3010 loader. First time around.. any pointers? Replacing due to leak....
Thanks Jonathan Chisago City, MN

 

[kennyd]

Welcome to TBN

Your question is a little vague...

I assume you mean that one of your cylinders is leaking-either the lift or curl cylinders. If that the case, then the cylinder will have to be disassembled and repacked.

 

[jddodge]

Hello

Correct.. O ring is leaking. I assume I spin the end off the cylinder and then replace the ring? Thanks!!

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Well, that all depends. Is it leaking from between the rod and the gland nut or from between the gland nut and the cylinder housing? Either way, it is more than just an o-ring.

 

[KJM]

Jddodge - Hydraulic cylinders are pretty simple to work on. Search the forums for pictures!

Basically:unpin the rod end from the loader and then unscrew the cap a little. The cylinder end will be conveniently held for you by a large tractor-like object. Then just unpin the cylinder end and it's off. Of course, you'll need something to unscrew the end cap with. My cylinders had a pipe wrench used on them. That's not ideal - it is just possible you might egg the cap. Worked fine for me - a pin wrench or C-spanner is the appropriate tool - but I didn't have one.

Getting the rod out sometimes needs two blokes or compressed air. Go easy on the air. Go real easy.

The construction is very simple and there are no real big pitfalls. I went to a hydraulics place for the seal set (take them with you - including the cyl & piston). The local tractor place was 2x the price for the same seals.

Best of luck with it.

Cheers
/Kevin

 

[john_bud]

There is packing inside cylinders and some o-rings. It's probably more than just a simple o-ring. You do have the rebuild kit for it? Or are you just buying parts ?

To take apart, follow KJM's directions. But, don't use air to push out the rod. You will probably shoot the rod across the room and dent it up causing more problems. I use a ratchet strap. Hook the ends of the cylinder and go around the workbench. Then clickty clickety and the rod comes out slowly. Takes a few re-sets with the strap, but is much more controlled and there is no danger from flying metal.

Putting the rod and piston back in, I use a engine piston compressor. Then bounce the cylinder housing while holding the rod. Imaging you are setting a hammer head on a new handle. You don't whack the head, you bounce the handle and weight of the head drives itself down. Only need to go 4-6" of bounce and onto a carpet or chunk of wood. Pay attention so you don't roll the seals over the wrong way and get a leak. Use LOTS of hydraulic fluid to lube it on the way down. And above all, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

jb

 

[KJM]

To take apart, follow KJM's directions. But, don't use air to push out the rod. You will probably shoot the rod across the room and dent it up causing more problems. I use a ratchet strap. Hook the ends of the cylinder and go around the workbench. Then clickty clickety and the rod comes out slowly. Takes a few re-sets with the strap, but is much more controlled and there is no danger from flying metal.

That's what I mean't by real easy. I've used air once - just put the air duster nozzle near the port and "puffed". But the ratchet strap is going into my brain for the next time!

Putting the rod and piston back in, I use a engine piston compressor. Then bounce the cylinder housing while holding the rod. Imaging you are setting a hammer head on a new handle. You don't whack the head, you bounce the handle and weight of the head drives itself down. Only need to go 4-6" of bounce and onto a carpet or chunk of wood. Pay attention so you don't roll the seals over the wrong way and get a leak. Use LOTS of hydraulic fluid to lube it on the way down. And above all, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

I've never had a bother putting them back together. The ones I've done have just slipped together - used a rubber mallet to start them - then just pushed.

I forgot to mention clean. I also forgot to mention that irrespective of how much oil you think you got out of the cylinder before starting, you'll end up with oil everywhere!

/Kevin

 

[john_bud]

I forgot to mention clean. I also forgot to mention that irrespective of how much oil you think you got out of the cylinder before starting, you'll end up with oil everywhere!

/Kevin

{chuckle} ain't that the truth!! Nothing like pulling out that rod and spilling a qt of oil on your boots!

My cylinders are mostly packed with VEE chevrons and they are TIGHT. Hard to get out and hard to get in. I've used air, but had a strap to hold the rod from flying. The rod didn't move until it went past 90 psi.... then it "moved". Like a freaking rocket! Very happy my smart side put a strap on it and that limited the action to only a small stain in the boxers.

jb

 

[KJM]

{chuckle} ain't that the truth!! Nothing like pulling out that rod and spilling a qt of oil on your boots!

The first time I did it, I was pulling the ram out vertically and the oil didn't go on the boots. In the boots.

My cylinders are mostly packed with VEE chevrons and they are TIGHT. Hard to get out and hard to get in. I've used air, but had a strap to hold the rod from flying. The rod didn't move until it went past 90 psi.... then it "moved". Like a freaking rocket! Very happy my smart side put a strap on it and that limited the action to only a small stain in the boxers.

jb

Ah! All the cyls on the wee kubota are all very simple - one O-ring and a couple of packers. The force required to dis-assemble is pretty low, as is the re-assembly. The big rams on the backhoe (3" cyls) were the ones I had to blow out. But the blowing was nothing more than using a duster and pointing it at the port - getting it closer until is started to move. I used a rope to limit the extension too, but the compressed air worked a treat. Until it got to the threaded end. I held the rod, puffed and it popped free in my hands. Along with an insane amount of oil over me, my face and the shed. I also got a spray as it went past the top port. Should have been on alert after that!

/Kevin

 

[john_bud]

It's reassuring to hear that people clear on the other side of the planet do the same dumb stuff we do over here.

By the way, I keep a hose in the ports and the other end of the hose tied to a bucket to catch the fluid. Not perfect, but better than a hydraulic shower.

jb

 

[RickB]

By the way, I keep a hose in the ports and the other end of the hose tied to a bucket to catch the fluid. Not perfect, but better than a hydraulic shower.

jb

It only took me most of my life before I figured that one out. Bungeeing the hoses into a 2-1/2 gallon jug catches just about all the oil without any splash.

 

[KJM]

It's reassuring to hear that people clear on the other side of the planet do the same dumb stuff we do over here.

Well, there's dumb and then there's dumb. I manage the former (I hope!) Learning through experience is always the best form of learning. I get pre-learned stuff from TBN and I try to contribute back if I can! The point about keeping the cylinder pinned before you unscrew the cap is a case in point. I'd have been in trouble with the backhoe rams if I hadn't done it!

By the way, I keep a hose in the ports and the other end of the hose tied to a bucket to catch the fluid. Not perfect, but better than a hydraulic shower.

jb

Now you can't get away with that. I bet that idea came after the first shower!

Cheers
/Kevin

 

[jddodge]

I picked up my o-ring package last week ($40.00 OUCH!!) but I can't live without my loader. I pulled the cylinder off ond noticed that the metal ring that screws on the end of the cylinder (and hold the o-ring in) was cracked.
I should have that part here Monday or Tuesday. I will let you know how things go when I have all the parts. THANKS for all the information!!

 

[john_bud]

Now you can't get away with that. I bet that idea came after the first shower!

Cheers
/Kevin

Actually, it came before the first shower. The first shower was from 100 psi air in the cylinder pushing out the rod. It came out, stopped with the strap, but the strap did little to slow down the fluid. Odd. I can still taste it...

jb

 

[KJM]

Actually, it came before the first shower. The first shower was from 100 psi air in the cylinder pushing out the rod. It came out, stopped with the strap, but the strap did little to slow down the fluid. Odd. I can still taste it...

jb

EEEWWW! (I'm not sure that is the correct spelling Australian or American, but....) At least with me, all I ever got is oil over the overalls and oil in the boots!

Jddodge - $40 for 2 sets of seals? That's about what it cost me. I suspect the seals actually are a bit more spiffy than simple buna-N O-rings you get from the local hardware shop. At least, I hope so! The dust wiper seals on the cylinder ends seem to be particularly nice for the loader arm rams I have...

Cracking the end-cap is something I'd not expect to see (but since I'm not a hydraulics engineer, I'm prepared to be called wrong on that). The forces should resolve along the axis of the ram - cracking an end cap makes me think of serious axial loading - which shouldn't be the case on a loader. Anything weird happened to the loader ever?

/Kevin

 

[john_bud]

EEEWWW! (I'm not sure that is the correct spelling Australian or American, but....) At least with me, all I ever got is oil over the overalls and oil in the boots!

Jddodge - $40 for 2 sets of seals? That's about what it cost me. I suspect the seals actually are a bit more spiffy than simple buna-N O-rings you get from the local hardware shop. At least, I hope so! The dust wiper seals on the cylinder ends seem to be particularly nice for the loader arm rams I have...

Cracking the end-cap is something I'd not expect to see (but since I'm not a hydraulics engineer, I'm prepared to be called wrong on that). The forces should resolve along the axis of the ram - cracking an end cap makes me think of serious axial loading - which shouldn't be the case on a loader. Anything weird happened to the loader ever?

/Kevin

I think that's the correct spelling. It taught me to keep my big mouth shut! At least I have glasses that kept the stuff out of my eyes.

The end caps often crack when you use a pipe wrench to take them off or a chisel to hammer them off. The correct tool isn't that expensive, but you have to have it in hand.

 

[jddodge]

I have all the parts (early last week) but haven't had time to start the repair. I hope to get around to it this weekend. Thanks for all the advice!!