Replacing Pinion/Ring TC40D

[Korishan]

Well, I'm pretty sure the ring/pinion broke somewhere. I was driving forward and the front tires locked and I slid a little bit. I was able to backup and get the tractor out of the wet/boggy part of the yard and onto some drier land. I did take it out of 4wheel shortly before that because it started sounding odd, and I had a few more buckets of dirt to to fill back in the hole. This all happened in about 5 minutes time. There had been a ringing (like a washer riding a metal shaft) for some time, but forward/reverse wasn't hindered.

We had a leak as the bushing had been worn and some of the seals where leaking at the differential. So I kept gear oil in it. The tractor had gone over to my uncles brother-in-laws, and I'm not sure if they kept oil in it, or not. Unfortunately, we just got the tractor back yesterday and the thing broke today

Ok, so my first question is, has anyone a link to a video showing how to replace all those parts. I keep getting truck differentials when I do a search. I know they are similar, but I'd like to compare apples to apples.

Secondly, I'm wondering if the ring/pinion could be replaced by a 4x4 or heavy duty truck ring/pinion. The ring/pinion for the TC40D is almost $800. Most of the ring/pinions I see for the trucks are closer to $400 or less range (though, I didn't look at diesels at this time what they run). The only issue I see first off with this is if the pinion shaft isn't long enough. Would there be any other issues?

Kori

 

[Korishan]

Bump. Any comments? Specifically to my second question.

 

[KWentling]

While I suppose you might find something that could be adapted with some machine work, you likely won't save any money in the long run. Keep in mind it has to be the correct ratio also. Just bite the bullet for new or look for a used one. Ring and pinions have to be set up correctly. Probably not going to be a do it yourself project.

 

[Korishan]

Well, got the front axle out and disassembled. We found some interesting things. First off, pieces of metal fell out. So we already know it's not good.

However, after getting everything apart, the ring/pinion don't look really worn. What do you guys think? Can the ring/pinion be put back into service?

Now, I dunno what to think about the differential housing. I haven't taken it apart to make sure it's free of debris internally yet. It's got some scrappings along the side of the casing, but they aren't too deep and the housing doesn't look to be structurally damaged. Suggestions?


As far as the ring/pinion, I was able to find a previous part number for it and could get about $100 shaved off the cost (though, not sure what shipping would be at this time; still have to check that out)

For the two pics that have a small red ring in the back, that's the pivot bracket that mounts to the back of the axle. The large red one is the inside of the axle housing (obviously with the pinion poking through)

Thanks,
Kori

BTW: scrapping the idea of replacing with a locking diff. And scrapping the idea of looking for a truck ring/pinion as well. Just sticking with the tractor parts.

 

[Stimw]

It looks like the pinion bearings failed and let it pull into the carrier causing the teeth like marks on it.
If you did not see it, that is an inner race still on the pinion that can be removed.
The ring and pinion might be savable if you clean them up. ??? I would not run them on a road vehicle but a tractor is slow speed.
The carrier needs to be cleaned and inspected also.
If inspection goes well you might get by with bearings and seals. (fingers crossed???)

 

[Korishan]

Yeah, I did notice the inner race still on the pinion.
I 'think' what happened is that the locknut may have worked loose causing slack and ware that led to more looseness, which caused more wear, etc, etc.

The lock nut was almost gone. As well as other parts in the carrier housing. And yeah, I agree, these would not go back on in a roar worthy vehicle.

I am going to pull the actual differential gearing/housing apart to make sure there are no abrasive metal floating around in there. This thing is gonna be almost white room clean when I'm done. My uncle also suggested to take the final reduction gears out and make sure of no debris there, too. I did pull the shafts out and there was fine metal particles 1/2 way up the shafts. So yeah, there may be more further down.

 

[KWentling]

Wow! That's just plain ugly. Glad it's not mine.

 

[Stimw]

HF sells a siphon/spray thingie cheap that lets you use mineral spirits with a drip pan to get a good cleaning for things like this.
Just go with low pressure to control over spray.

 

[Korishan]

I'll keep that in mind, Stimw. Thanks. It is a pain to do all this work. But, it's something has to be done under the circumstances.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Looks like the ring and pinion plus all the bearings and seals need replacing.

The new R/P will have to be "shimmed" in, or it will fail again...

These light duty tractors are NOT bull dozers! That's the results of using them for one!

SR

 

[Korishan]

How do you mean by bull dozers? We predominately use it for moving earth and clearing brush. We have pushed over the occasional tree, but that's like maybe once a month at the max, average. (now, these are more like shrub trees like scrub oaks, not large pines or oaks or maples)

Kori

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Any time the front wheels are spinning or slipping while pushing something, it's VERY hard of the front end, especially with a bucket full of dirt ect...

Yeaaa folks do it all the time, and given enough time, they will end up where you are too...

SR

 

[Korishan]

Oh, that. I always try to make sure that all 4 wheels are on the ground (granted, I do raise the front up for extra leverage, but rarely). That's the whole point in using 4x4 mode. If they aren't, what's the point? I see what you mean, though. They are designed to have a certain amount of backpressure/resistance when in operation to keep everything meshed together properly.

Kori

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I'm not talking about wheels/tires in the air, I'm talking about spinning the front tires on the ground pushing something... With the front weighted by the bucket, it puts a HUGE amount of stress on the front end parts.

Those ring/pinions just aren't all that big, they get over stressed and start failing.

SR

 

[Korishan]

Oh that. This tractor doesn't even that kind of HP. The engine will bog down to a shutoff first. The only time it does do that is if we're using it in the mud. The only time I've noticed the tires leaving marks on dry-ish dirt was when the broken parts locked the front when I was moving it the other day.
The back tires loose purchase before the front ones do. We have had the that happen a few times. But it's usually when the bucket is being loaded or backing out of a hole.

Kori

 

[KWentling]

Looks like the ring and pinion plus all the bearings and seals need replacing.

The new R/P will have to be "shimmed" in, or it will fail again...

These light duty tractors are NOT bull dozers! That's the results of using them for one!

SR

I got to agree. The only thing in those pictures I would reuse is the housing. The tooth profile is so damaged that it will create a lot of contamination as they try to
wear in to each other. If this something you plan on keeping, spend the money to do it right, or you will be doing it again. If you have no experience setting up a ring and pinion, get some who does to help you. If you are going to reuse those, it probably won't make much difference, as you will never get a good contact pattern with those teeth.