2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 8,482
The Honda clearly goes best with the original troy bilt red.
did it bolt right up with no problems?
did it bolt right up with no problems?
Replcement Engine for Troy-Built Horse
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thetooth
Silver Member
yes . it's bolts right up . save the old bolts and shaft key and pop it on i even used the old shims . the only thing you can't use is the shaft bolt i believe it was 5/16 instead of the tecumesh 3/8 . i think it took about 30 minutes to bolt the new motor on and have it running .
briggs makes a troy bilt red motor also but it is more hp and more money .
i am really happy with the honda .
rut3556
Bronze Member
MrTooth,
Just curious.... is that unit an older one such as mine.... c. 1978? (orig. 7 horse Kohler)
Tnx..RUT
thetooth
Silver Member
i believe it's from the mid 1980's but i am not sure . the original motor was a hh-60 tecumseh if that helps date the tiller . i believe it's considered a 4 speed with forward , reverse , high , and low . hope this helps.
I want to thank everyone of you who responded to my original question about my TroyBilt engine replacement. I completed my exchange with the 6.5 HP Harbor Freight Greyhound version of a Honda clone.
I had to also replace the 4 engine mounting bolts with a 5/16 X 1 - 24 thread because the original Tecumseh had narrow threads. The 5/16 X 1 1/2 - 24 thread bolt for the end of the shaft that secures the drive pulley was also replaced because the original bolt has narrow threads.
If you are thinking about trying an engine replacement I may share some hints:
1. I removed the bolt to the rear of the drive pulleys and reversing disk. This gave me access to the inside of the pulley as it fits onto the engine drive shaft. I sprayed PB Blaster in the area and left it sit for 36 hours. It may have helped.
2. Slide the belts off the pulley and slide the dual pulley away from the frame. It will give better access to the 4 mounting bolts.
3. If you remove the bolts at 2, 5 and 7 o団lock positions (looking from the handlebar) you will be able to twist the old engine a bit to give better access for removing the final bolt located at the 11 o団lock position. If the belts are out of the way a ｽ socket on the end of a wobble extension will work. A ｽ ratchet type wrench may also be helpful.
4. When I began the reinstall I used my floor jack with a plywood platform to align the drive shaft through the frame so I could start the first engine mounting bolt (11 o団lock) first.
5. My original engine had 4 shim washers on the shaft to align the drive pulleys. I used 2 washers, a total of 1/8 on the new drive shaft to get the proper alignment with the drive pulleys on new engine. I haven稚 reconnected the throttle cable yet.
6. My best wishes to everyone else wanting to do their own exchange. If this information has been helpful to anyone else, I am rewarded. Others have helped me so much in the past. This forum has been extremely helpful to me. I check it often and try to assist other when possible.
I tried to share a photo of the drive pulleys pushed to the rear. You may also be able to see one of the holes where a bolt was already removed. Look closely at the photo of the socket and bolt. A small piece of paper towel was used to wedge the bolt tight so it didn稚 escape during the reinstall.
I had to also replace the 4 engine mounting bolts with a 5/16 X 1 - 24 thread because the original Tecumseh had narrow threads. The 5/16 X 1 1/2 - 24 thread bolt for the end of the shaft that secures the drive pulley was also replaced because the original bolt has narrow threads.
If you are thinking about trying an engine replacement I may share some hints:
1. I removed the bolt to the rear of the drive pulleys and reversing disk. This gave me access to the inside of the pulley as it fits onto the engine drive shaft. I sprayed PB Blaster in the area and left it sit for 36 hours. It may have helped.
2. Slide the belts off the pulley and slide the dual pulley away from the frame. It will give better access to the 4 mounting bolts.
3. If you remove the bolts at 2, 5 and 7 o団lock positions (looking from the handlebar) you will be able to twist the old engine a bit to give better access for removing the final bolt located at the 11 o団lock position. If the belts are out of the way a ｽ socket on the end of a wobble extension will work. A ｽ ratchet type wrench may also be helpful.
4. When I began the reinstall I used my floor jack with a plywood platform to align the drive shaft through the frame so I could start the first engine mounting bolt (11 o団lock) first.
5. My original engine had 4 shim washers on the shaft to align the drive pulleys. I used 2 washers, a total of 1/8 on the new drive shaft to get the proper alignment with the drive pulleys on new engine. I haven稚 reconnected the throttle cable yet.
6. My best wishes to everyone else wanting to do their own exchange. If this information has been helpful to anyone else, I am rewarded. Others have helped me so much in the past. This forum has been extremely helpful to me. I check it often and try to assist other when possible.
I tried to share a photo of the drive pulleys pushed to the rear. You may also be able to see one of the holes where a bolt was already removed. Look closely at the photo of the socket and bolt. A small piece of paper towel was used to wedge the bolt tight so it didn稚 escape during the reinstall.
heehaw
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2000
- Messages
- 2,076
- Location
- russellville, arkansas
- Tractor
- Kubota M4900, B7510 and RTV
i'm curious why you didn't just remove the 1/2 inch rods on each side, an set the motor and mount off to the side to swap engines? i admit i have never done it, but i thought that was what they were for??
heehaw
heehaw
Shmudda
Gold Member
Haw.....thats the easiest way. I did it to (2) tillers, both new engines installed and was done in about 2 1/2 hours.
Craig
Craig
Just bought that identical engine. Ready to put it in but have too much play on the transmission shaft yet. Not sure if shim another 1/4 + inch or bearings need replacement. Suggestions welcome.
What did you do with the engine for throttle cable or more importantly engine shut off. I wrecked my old one crashing into something and destroying the tecumsey flywheel. (those parts available now!)
How do you disconnect or override the oil shut off?
Your knowledge will help. I did have a manual and took off the whole engine mount, though.
What did you do with the engine for throttle cable or more importantly engine shut off. I wrecked my old one crashing into something and destroying the tecumsey flywheel. (those parts available now!)
How do you disconnect or override the oil shut off?
Your knowledge will help. I did have a manual and took off the whole engine mount, though.
thetooth
Silver Member
I repowered with a B&S Inotek 6.5 hp. Small Engine Warehouse had a bunch of NOS engines with some external rust. Had a starter, but no generator/alternator. Had to grind a bit off of the engine mounting piece to clear that, but not significant (no harm). I might someday hoop up the factory battery and switch set up (no big deal to hook up a small battery charger).
I left the throttle off. And the kill switch. Just use the controls on the engine. Works well. Just wish I had thought to get a larger engine (I am at altitude).
Originally it was the HH60 Tecumseh engine. The B&S is a much nicer engine, as it should be (being a decades newer design).
I left the throttle off. And the kill switch. Just use the controls on the engine. Works well. Just wish I had thought to get a larger engine (I am at altitude).
Originally it was the HH60 Tecumseh engine. The B&S is a much nicer engine, as it should be (being a decades newer design).