Replcement Engine for Troy-Built Horse

[thetooth]

I have read many posts stating "it just bolted right up", others say they needed to just replace the shaft bolt, and others just the mounting bolts.
Could someone please clarify what bolts are needed for the $99 Greyhound 6.5 HP engine from Harbor Freight to attach to a Troy-Bilt Horse tiller that had a Techumseh HH60 6.5 HP engine?
Thanks

I know your looking for the Harbor Freight motor , but on the Honda you just have to replace the shaft bolt . I picked one up at Tractor Supply for $0.10 . I believe the HF motors are identical . I also switch out a HH60 motor off a Horse with low/high and reverse . It is a very simple swap .

 

[BATTY54]

I have read many posts stating "it just bolted right up", others say they needed to just replace the shaft bolt, and others just the mounting bolts.
Could someone please clarify what bolts are needed for the $99 Greyhound 6.5 HP engine from Harbor Freight to attach to a Troy-Bilt Horse tiller that had a Techumseh HH60 6.5 HP engine?
Thanks

"you'll need to use metric bolts, 8mmX1.25 hex head, as close to the
length of the original SAE bolts that came with the tiller. The bolt for the
pulley is a 5/16-24 hex head. "

I got this off the yahoo troybilt group, loads of good info there. Check all your bolt holes by threading in a bolt by hand before you grab a wrench. Youi need to make sure the bolts thread in easily and to the correct depth, hate to see you crack a new block.

 

[2manyrocks]

I don't understand how things work if you leave the throttle cable off?
Do you run a sepapate cable or just set the speed at the engine and go that way?

Some of the less expensive tillers only have throttle controls on the engine now anyway.

HF has theirs back on sale for $99 now. http://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-horizontal-shaft-overhead-valve-gas-engine-66015.html

 

[D40]

Got the HF Greyhound 6.5 engine a few days ago. With coupon it cost me only $92 dollars delivered. I learned that I needed the 4 - 8.0 X 1.25mm X 25mm bolts for the engine mount, and a 5/16 X 24 X 1-1/2" shaft bolt. I don't think I need any change in the shaft spacers but I won't know that for sure till I use it. (If anyone else is doing this I highly recommend you measure the distance from the inside of the cast pulley housing to the face of the pulley BEFORE removing the engine.) I discovered the old engine mounting bolts are 5/16 X 24 but only 1" long so you can't use one of those for the new shaft, it's too short.
I was pretty impressed with this engine. I filled it with oil and gas, set the choke on, and throttle to half. It started right up on the first pull, and that really surprised me. The manual says the critical breaking period is the first 3 hours, no full throttle and no heavy loads so I'm going to just idle the thing for 3 hours before I put it to work.
The next step is to remove the low oil cutout device and move the engine kill switch up onto the handle. I might even attempt to attach the old throttle control cable as well. I'll let you know how that works out.

 

[sixdogs]

Not sure but idling might not be the best idea for break-in.
If it were a car i would vary the engine speed during the break-in
without a concentration at any one RPM.

 

[DennisArrow]

For break-in, ALL gasoline engines need a varying load with a varying speed........You are not only wearing a bit of the edges off of the machined parts but beding in various bearing surfaces.......DO NOT JUST IDLE..................Good luck.........Dennis

 

[Travelover]

I notice that the Greyhound 6.5 HP is on sale for $100 at the stores. I believe you can still use the 20% off coupon on engines.

It looks like HF is phasing out the Greyhound series and bringing in a new engine series called Predator. I think the Predators are a clone of a newer engine, maybe more CARB compliant??

 

[D40]

Thanks for the break-in tips, I'll do that.

I got my throttle hooked up with little trouble. Looking down from the top there is a throttle arm with three small holes in it between the Air Cleaner, Gas Tank, and Exhaust Cover. The end of the original throttle cable has a small offset in the end that fits into one of the smaller holes perfectly. All had to do was drill two holes in the exhaust cover and bolt in two tiny wire straps about 3" apart with 8/32 screws, nuts, and lock washers to hold the cable securely. This leaves the cable a little long but I just draped it over to the other side of the handle bars and tie-wrapped it down. Only other thing I had to do was to loosen the washer nut holding the throttle arm and put a drop of oil on it. The thing was tightened for manual use but now that the cable is connected it can be adjust to turn freely because the throttle cable has plenty of it's own resistance.

I took care of the engine kill switch and the low oil switch with one simple solution. Both the oil and kill switch just ground out the ignition, so all I needed to do was cut the low oil wire, splice a piece of wire long enough to reach the handle bar, and install a switch with one side grounded to the metal handle. Now the engine can be killed from the original switch or the handle switch.

Everything is working great!

 

[2manyrocks]

I notice that the Greyhound 6.5 HP is on sale for $100 at the stores. I believe you can still use the 20% off coupon on engines.

It looks like HF is phasing out the Greyhound series and bringing in a new engine series called Predator. I think the Predators are a clone of a newer engine, maybe more CARB compliant??

Bummer---maybe stock up on them while you can.

 

[pro-tell]

THANKS D40 - think you could post a photo of your throttle connection?