Resealing valve for front end loader controls

[BukitCase]

Some suggestions -
If you're gonna replace the old valve anyway, AND if you're gonna use the loader more than a couple times a YEAR, and if you can swing the extra $$, I would STRONGLY recommend getting a REAL loader valve with PB -

Reasons -
NONE of the valves you linked have a FLOAT mode on any of the spools - makes it nearly impossible to actually smooth out an area with the bucket, or make a flat place, etc.
All but one have separate levers for each spool - if you EVER use a joystick loader, you won't want anything else. I've had both, my 580B has both joystick and float on lift, and I can make an area look like a parking lot pretty quickly - partly from experience (yeah, size helps ), but it'd be several TIMES as hard without single (joystick) lever AND float option...

Also, if your Kubota doesn't already have remotes (or only ONE) getting a STACKED valve with a joystick KIT for two of the sections might make sense to you (stack valves are just what it sounds like; you pick and choose how MANY valves you want, and configure EACH SECTION with whatever options you want - then you pick your inlet and outlet sections, bolt 'em all together in the order YOU want - if you change your mind later, you can unbolt everything, re-arrange the sections, add or remove a section, etc -

Not tryin' to spend your money for ya; just presenting options you might not be aware of. Also agree with previous posters about NPT - evil, I tell ya :thumbdown: ...Steve

If money is tight, you might not wanna even LOOK at these links, your choice - stack valve example-

3 Spool Prince SV Sectional Control Valve Open Center | Stack Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

And an actual LOADER valve, joystick w/float for lift, regen for curl

2 Spool Compact 1 GPM Joystick Control Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[rangerfredbob]

I'm toying with choices... I use the loader all the time but it's a self leveling linkage setup with a very warped bucket so smoothing doesn't work no matter what you do, plus I have a box scraper... the linkage setup severely limits bucket rotation and curl force due to curl geometry (although a couple of the curl hoses are tiny, bought 4 matching hoses today to install when I put a new valve on). Here's somewhat of a picture of the loader... I didn't get anything new today, will try tomorrow...



I've never used a joystick loader but am VERY used to the function of the two levers. The current valve is a stacked setup but you get one function at a time so you can't tilt and lift at the same time (it stalls the pump if you move both for whatever reason), and with the level linkage setup I'm not so sure anything fancy will help but am open to opinions...

I don't have a remote but only have 5 acres and no farming so limited need of auxiliary hydraulics, a hydraulic top link would be nice sometimes but so would a working adjustable linkage on the right 3 point arm . I also don't think I have room width wise for a third function, was looking at that today, it's tight between the hood and rear upright where the valve lives...

Not trying to be cheap, just weighing options, it is a 45 year old tractor worth around $3k tops...

 

[Zebrafive]

TractorData.com lists hydraulic flow at 4.7gpm

 

[rangerfredbob]

Well, I looked again and there's a sticker on the pump... It's a Northern 10567 which is 8gpm at 3600rpm apparently which is about where it is operating when I'm using it...

Here's a picture of the original valve.

 

[Zebrafive]

Well, I looked again and there's a sticker on the pump... It's a Northern 10567 which is 8gpm at 3600rpm apparently which is about where it is operating when I'm using it...

Here's a picture of the original valve.

Are you sure you are running 3600rpm? or is the pump "overdriven" I am asking since my JD 2030 tops at about 2500rpm.
Is the pump an add on? or original? Or original replacement? TractorData has been known to be wrong.

 

[rangerfredbob]

It's an external belt driven pump, Northern 10567 like THIS that has a 2 or 3 to one overdrive off the crank (I haven't measured, probably closer to 3:1) and with my normal operating speed of 1800rpm that puts me right in that range. I attached a picture of the pump setup, pretty obvious it's aftermarket looking at that

That said, any argument for single lever "joystick" control? All I hear is it's the way to go but haven't heard of reasons, can you run both at once, give finer control? An engineering mindset wants to know before I choose . It looks like the same valve with some fancy linkages to me. With the self leveling bucket I just don't even think about trying to tilt and elevate at the same time...

 

[BukitCase]

You're right, usually a joystick is accomplished by linkages to two adjacent valves - and yes, you can actuate both valves at the same time - BUT in most cases you don't push EITHER valve to its end of travel.

If you just push forward, it's the same as just moving the lift lever forward; straight back, still just the lift lever/valve - then, moving the joystick sideways TOWARD you will curl the bucket; sideways AWAY from you will dump the bucket.

Moving the joystick forward and outward @ 45* would dump the bucket while lowering the loader arms - probably the most useful combo is picking up a load of dirt or gravel from a pile; push forward PAST the spring return into FLOAT, bucket drops - while it's dropping, adjust curl (sideways movements) so it ends up level as it reaches the ground - drive forward into the pile, once the bucket starts to fill you pull the joystick to the rear slightly (raising the loader) and to the inside (which curls the bucket) that combo gets the bucket as full as it can get.

that's just one example; it can be done with separate levers, but it's more of an exercise in finger dexterity than a single lever control... Steve

If you get one of these
2 Spool Prince SV Sectional Control Valve Open Center | Stack Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

you could order the joystick kit separately, either at the same time or later (or not at all, your choice) - there may be other brands that also allow that. As you pointed out, the valves are the same - it's the linkage in the kit that changes side motion on the lever to forward motion for the SECOND valve (curl)

HTH... Steve