Retorquing wheels

[Redbug]

Hi Canoe,

Go with option 1. Complete your tool collection in 1/2". As needs and skills progress over the years then add the 3/4". I evolved in that way.

 

[madpogue]

In a nutshell - can I get by just fine with a 1/2" driver for use on my tractor?

In a nutshell, yes...or, at least, I have.

Wow, I'm relieved to hear that. We had to resort to 3/4 drive for our 790 last weekend. Just got it, and it was delivered with the narrow wheel spacing. Our neighbor, from whom we're renting the space, offered the use of his tools and a little assistance in switching them out. For the rears, we had to remove the eight carriage bolts / nuts holding the outer rim to the wheel "dish". I started to lean on one with a 15/16" socket, 1/2" extension, breaker bar and a piece of exaust pipe "cheater". I saw the extension start to twist, and wimped out and used his 3/4 stuff because I was afraid I was gonna break that extension. But now that I've busted 'em loose once (and worn the paint off the threads), they shouldn't present that kind of challenge again, so perhaps 1/2" will do from here out.

Oh, and Roy - the factory did exactly what you did - marked the lug bolts / rims so I could tell if any had moved. Thinkin' it through, I think I'll do that with the nuts on those carriage bolts.

 

[RoyJackson]

EDITED BY ROY
I started to lean on one with a 15/16" socket, 1/2" extension, breaker bar and a piece of exaust pipe "cheater". I saw the extension start to twist, and wimped out and used his 3/4 stuff because I was afraid I was gonna break that extension. But now that I've busted 'em loose once (and worn the paint off the threads), they shouldn't present that kind of challenge again, so perhaps 1/2" will do from here out.

Oh, and Roy - the factory did exactly what you did - marked the lug bolts / rims so I could tell if any had moved. Thinkin' it through, I think I'll do that with the nuts on those carriage bolts.

Wow! In an earlier post in this thread I wrote about not letting someone airgun your wheels on...
I'll wager the guy did just that. Those rear wheels are to be torqued to 137 Ft Lb's which ½" drive tools will handle with no problems. The manual calls out for progressive torquing and I suggest you do that. I went 50-100-137 (ft-lb)
Don't forget to retorque the wheel in about 10 hours.

 

[Jay4200]

Don't forget to retorque the wheel in about 10 hours.

You shouldn't need to retorque unless you have the spiffy aluminum tractor rims.

JayC

 

[madpogue]

Wow! In an earlier post in this thread I wrote about not letting someone airgun your wheels on...
I'll wager the guy did just that. Those rear wheels are to be torqued to 137 Ft Lb's which ½" drive tools will handle with no problems. The manual calls out for progressive torquing and I suggest you do that. I went 50-100-137 (ft-lb)
Don't forget to retorque the wheel in about 10 hours.

Does this apply to the carriage bolts/nuts fastening the outer rim to the "dish", as well as the central lug bolts?

Oh, and I presume those nuts were put on at the factory. There was paint on the washers, nuts, exposed threads, etc.

 

[BillyP]

Those wheels in the photo were from wheel bolts being loose - they were not re-torqued. Most small and medium sized tractors such as this call for re-torqueing the wheel bolts after the 1st 10 hours of use.

With that JCB backhoe, it could have been a disaster if the wheels came off while running down the road. It just so happened that when someone was using the hoe in the yard, when the operator lifted up the rear end with the stabilizers, someone came by and noticed the rear wheels were crooked when lifted off the ground.

2 new wheels @$500 a piece and very lucky nobody was hurt.

Did you post those same pics some time back? I've seen those same pics before.

 

[RoyJackson]

You shouldn't need to retorque unless you have the spiffy aluminum tractor rims.

JayC

Read your manual, Jay...look up wheel torque.
If you're refering to a post which I discussed aluminum wheels and torquing; they were for a car.

 

[RoyJackson]

Does this apply to the carriage bolts/nuts fastening the outer rim to the "dish", as well as the central lug bolts?

Oh, and I presume those nuts were put on at the factory. There was paint on the washers, nuts, exposed threads, etc.

That's a good question...my wheels are welded which are which is what I've seen used with R-4 Industrial Tires
I'd guess your tires are Ag (R-1's) which have the built up wheels.
So, I don't know if you need to, but it sure can't help if you do. Maybe someone with Ag tire experience will chime in...

Update: I was looking at the pic of your new 790...
Anyway, if those nuts and bolts loosen, you'll see the paint chipping or loosening too, so, IMHO torquing the rim/center section fasteners probably isn't necessary. However, suggest you go by your manual.

 

[prosperity]

Did you post those same pics some time back? I've seen those same pics before.

Yeah - was a couple years back I think.

 

[Willl]

but I put a witness mark[u/quote]

OK, but can't you lose some torqueness due to bolt stretch ?
Thus no moving marks ?