Rim Guard Ballast

[Tx Jim]

when running low pressure or in some loader situations where you are turning loaded.. etc. a tubless can roll off a bead easier than a tubed.

I've never heard of the tubeless bead problem you referred to. Is there scientific proof or just your observation? I would think "X" number pounds of air wouldn't care if it was in a tube or just the tire. I've turned in the field with my JD 4255 having a 22 ft 3 pt field cultivator many/many times over the years and never had a tubeless tire budge from the rim

 

[plowking]

I have beet juice in the rear tires on my Massey. I have to keep at least 45 lbs. of air or tires will leak the juice out thru the bead. I know it messes up my air gauges. plowking

 

[Soundguy]

I've never heard of the tubeless bead problem you referred to. Is there scientific proof or just your observation? I would think "X" number pounds of air wouldn't care if it was in a tube or just the tire. I've turned in the field with my JD 4255 having a 22 ft 3 pt field cultivator many/many times over the years and never had a tubeless tire budge from the rim

you are speaking of a rear load.. which actually makes the front end lighter.

my 'loader' example is front weight.

Look at it like this. when a tube tire has low enough air that it flattens.. the bead pops..then you have NO air... chances are you have to remove the tire to reseat the bead.... on a tube type. .. you just air it up.. and it won't roll the tire off ( as easily ).

I know pullers that run tubes so they can use sheet metal screws into the bead to keep the tire from rotating on the rim.

lastly. you can run a tire carcass LONGER with a tube... ie.. get more life out of a tire not air-tight

can be fill of holes and you boot it and go...

and yes.. this comes from my experience with farm equipment and heavy equipment. not from scientific tests...

 

[Tx Jim]

you are speaking of a rear load.. which actually makes the front end lighter.

my 'loader' example is front weight.

on a tube type. .. you just air it up.. and it won't roll the tire off ( as easily ).

I know pullers that run tubes so they can use sheet metal screws into the bead to keep the tire from rotating on the rim.

lastly. you can run a tire carcass LONGER with a tube... ie.. get more life out of a tire not air-tight

can be fill of holes and you boot it and go...

and yes.. this comes from my experience with farm equipment and heavy equipment. not from scientific tests...

On rear radial tubeless tires turning a corner while raising a 22 ft 3 pt field cult the sidewalls flex very similar to frt tires turning with a FEL.
I figured it was your opinion not scientific. BTW when your tube tire pops off the rim I guess you're always lucky and the rim never pinches a hole in the tube. I think you'll find this tube VS tubeless discussion will involve more about rear tires than front. I don't run my rear tubeless tractor tires at "air tight" pressures and get good service from them . Pulling tires & farming(everyday use of tires) is night & daylight differences. Have a nice day,Jim

 

[Soundguy]

. BTW when your tube tire pops off the rim I guess you're always lucky and the rim never pinches a hole in the tube. I

that's my point. I've never had a tube type roll of fthe rim. since the tube is holdingthe air and the tire never colapses as the bead gets loose. in a tubless whent he bead gets loose.. the air runs out and the tire rolls off many times.. or the bead completely unseats.

on a tubed tire i've -NEVER- had that happen... tire casing can't move in because tube is still in the waiy holding air.

 

[Tx Jim]

That's also my point. I've never had a tubeless tire at the "correct operating pressure" roll off the rim either. Tubeless tire can't move off rim bead with sufficient psi either. I never had a tubeless tire repaired that the tire repairman let the air of of the valve stem and the tire just fell away from the rim . Every repair I witnessed required a bead breaker tool. I guess it gets back to the old saying "opinions are similar to navels everybody has ONE".

 

[Soundguy]

That's also my point. I've never had a tubeless tire at the "correct operating pressure" roll off the rim either. Tubeless tire can't move off rim bead with sufficient psi either. I never had a tubeless tire repaired that the tire repairman let the air of of the valve stem and the tire just fell away from the rim . Every repair I witnessed required a bead breaker tool. I guess it gets back to the old saying "opinions are similar to navels everybody has ONE".

you are jumping around and changing facts now.

I didn't say correct air pressure.. I said lower than correct. post 33 was very clear in that....

IE.. a tube tire will hold the casing on in cases where a tubeless can come off.. ie.. under lower pressures and higher loads. lets keep the comparison straight and not change the details of the discussion.

there are many times I have deflated tires for traction issues.

I don't have a cre in the world doing so on a tube tire.. on a tubless I always would wonder if she'd roll off the bead....

 

[Red Horse]

Late to this thread but I've always been of the belief, Ca filled tire rims rust IF the tire is not loaded to the point that rim is NOT always in solution.

Bottom line fill above rim height and you won't have a problem. Or so I've been told by commercial tire guys. And at 3 bucks a gallon for Rimguard, sounds reasonable to me. My 89 755 Deere still going strong with guy I sold it to.

 

[JerryK]

I've never owned a tractor that I thought that little of to even consider putting salt of any type anywhere near it...

 

[Soundguy]

I've never owned a tractor that I thought that little of to even consider putting salt of any type anywhere near it...

rubber doesn't rust.

if you use saltwater.. put it in a rubber bag first.