Ripping a treated 4x4

Richard · Jul 17, 2005

For a patio roof that's attached to house, I need to flash it. Wife does NOT like the metal flashing I put up.

She wants me to take a 4x4, rip it length wise (16', so one eight footer will do).

After it's ripped DIAGONALLY (45 degree), she wants me to use it against the house and when I install the shingles, just slope them up the beveled slope.

I hope this makes sense, it's not really important anyways.

My question is, how does one go about ripping a treated 4x4 on a 45 degree angle?

I don't have table saw, band saw or other.

I DO have circular saw, sawzall, router (joke), jigsaw (another joke)

the only things I have that would be capable of it would probably be the circular saw.

Any thoughts on how to perhaps fabricate a jig so I can do it "safely" with my circular?

Home Depot and the like won't rip as we all probably know.

I could have finished this 3 days ago and she decided she didn't want the metal flashing and now it's MY fault that we're not done yet.

/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

gmsssi · Jul 17, 2005

Find a mill or cabinet shop who'll do it for you!

Casco1 · Jul 17, 2005

I may sound like a jerk to some, but in this situation ( after having done it once ) I would delegate. I would tell my wife if that's what you want, get the wood cut somehow, prime it and I'll put it up. In my house the subject probably would never come up again or the wood would be cut.

Farwell · Jul 17, 2005

Richard,
You need to practice some survival lies. "Honey it just can't be done that way because -------YOU FILL IN THE BLANKS-----
Example: Roof Rot..........Water Damage...........Wind Will Lift Up the Shingles........ Attic Termites..........Bugs Will Get in........Spiders........The boys on the tractor site will poke fun of me.............etc or if all else fails, many lumber yards will do the cutting for you for a minor fee. Maybe even Home Depot. If you do end up finding a way to do it yourself, remember that sawdust from pressure treated lumber is hazardous to your health and this is not a lie.

johnday · Jul 17, 2005

Richard; It would be a total bear with anything less than a table saw. Even with that, I'd make a jig to cradle it before I were to rip it. Do you have buddies that have a tablesaw? If so, a jig isn't that hard to make seeing you already have a jig/sabre saw. Take two pieces of plywood, particle board about 8" long and 6" high. Cut a vee with 90 degree corners in it to hold the 4X off its corner. Take a 2x4, or 1x4 and mount the v shape piece to it. Then take a couple straight 2x4 on edge and screw the previous assembly to it so it slides on the table. Set the fence so you can cut down the center of the vee, make a test cut with a 4X cutoff. You may need to flip the workpiece over to cut all the way thru, and BE CAREFUL. Hope thats clear enough, but you're going to need a tablesaw. Please don't try this on a radial arm. If you do, please don't tell me. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

hitekcountry · Jul 17, 2005

Richard

Sounds like you’re just creating a configuration that will allow rain water to get under the shingles.
What’s to keep rain out of the top edge of the top course of shingles. You still need flashing. I think you’re back where you started only 3 or 4 inches higher.

Well of course it's your fault! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

No good deed goes unpunished. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Richard · Jul 17, 2005

( Sounds like you’re just creating a configuration that will allow rain water to get under the shingles.
What’s to keep rain out of the top edge of the top course of shingles. You still need flashing. I think you’re back where you started only 3 or 4 inches higher. )

I've attached a picture. It has a four foot overhang over it on two sides. You can see the flashing tacked to the left wall

She says it looks hideous and wants to change it.

The left wall is where she wants the split 4x4 put. The logic being that with a four foot overhang we won't have a LOT of water there anyway. With a split 4x4 with the shingles sloped up it, it will allow any water to drain back towards the flat area, sort of like the slope on a bowl.

Hopefully the pic will show more clearly

hitekcountry · Jul 17, 2005

Richard

That flashing is wrong for that application anyway. and the ripped 4X4 would be wrong also. What is normally used are individual flashing that are about 8 or ten inches long that go at the end of each course of shingle. You could then put a trim board over the flashing (against the wall) and seal it well. You’ll then never see the flashing either against the wall or on the shingles.

I have to agree with the wife that flashing looks like****. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Fred

TonyReynolds · Jul 17, 2005

With it that far under the overhang does it really need flashing? It doesn't look like it from the photo.

Richard · Jul 17, 2005

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Sadly, I've learned over the years that she usually is

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I didn't know about the individual flashing, nor did the gal at one supply house, NOR the guy at the OTHER supply house make any mention of it to me /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Thanks for the description, I'll be a bit more observant now when I go into the store.

hitekcountry · Jul 17, 2005

Richard

Any place that sells roofing supplies will have it, HD has it. Imagine a roughly 8"x8" piece of sheet metal folded in the middle to form a right angle.

Fred

Richard · Jul 17, 2005

Got it, I understand perfectly what I'm now looking for. I just didn't know it existed before.

!!

My wife is gonna love you

hmm... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Richard · Jul 17, 2005

( With it that far under the overhang does it really need flashing? It doesn't look like it from the photo. )

Tony, I agree with the base sentiment. I told the wife that if that part of the house EVER saw water on the wall that high up, it means the rain is going horizontally /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Also, the storms we typically get come from the OTHER side of the house and not (typically) on this side.

Be all that as it may, there is ALSO about a 1" gap between the nearest joist and that wall, allowing a smaller say 1/4" gap between the plywood & the wall. I'd think that if any water got there it'd just run off the gap.

None the less, I've always tried to do it right & not cut corners so even if it's over done, I'll try to put the flashing.

Farwell · Jul 17, 2005

Richard,
I see them in roofing instruction books usually around chimneys, over lapped pieces of angled metal. I agree with the wife as well. Never thought about them in your case until the photo. Good luck.

johnday · Jul 17, 2005

Richard; The flat pieces you're looking for, we call flash cards around here. Those are what I was telling you about in your other thread. Step flashing is the proper term. The idea of the 1X board to cover them is an excellent idea. Just make sure to back prime and caulk the snot out of it. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

fire72 · Jul 17, 2005

As others have mentioned, step flashing is the right way to do it. However, you're looking at a lot of work to go back and start over at this point. I'll agree with the 1x trim board, back primed and caulked VERY well. Don't forget to bevel the top edge to avoid giving water a place to lay against the house.

EddieWalker · Jul 17, 2005

Richard,

Looks like your making progress. I agree, you went a little overboard and used the biggest flashing you could find. 2 inch proabably would have been fine for your application.

Since it's already done, and the size of it will work, why not just cover it with a piece of cedar or redwood? Even a 1X4 Preasure Treated board will cover it. Then just stain or paint the board to match your logs.

Eddie

hitekcountry · Jul 17, 2005

Richard

 My wife is gonna love you 

That’s nice, but tell her that my contribution and others was the end result of her husbands willingness to search far and wide and even to the ends of the earth to please his lovely wife.

Hay they love that crap./forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Fred

2nstonge · Jul 17, 2005

Copper flashing looks nice and it wouldn't cost much for a short run like that. It'll be nice and shiny when you install it and then gets a nice patina that would look good with your house. Copper step flashing works good or try a sheet metal shop, one local to me specializes in flashing and trim work for just a few bucks more than the material cost.

-Norm

beenthere · Jul 18, 2005

As I said before, I wouldn't put flashing there. I'd leave that roof back away from the house 'timbers' and treat the edge just like the outside exposed (opposite) edge. Leave a 1-2" gap between the roof and the house, at least on the slope part. The upper end probably different.
What little water that gets there can easily run down the 'timber' siding and dry off.

But, that flashing is 'not good', and agree with wifey. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wish you luck.