Ripping a treated 4x4

hitekcountry · Jul 17, 2005

Richard

Any place that sells roofing supplies will have it, HD has it. Imagine a roughly 8"x8" piece of sheet metal folded in the middle to form a right angle.

Fred

Richard · Jul 17, 2005

Got it, I understand perfectly what I'm now looking for. I just didn't know it existed before.

!!

My wife is gonna love you

hmm... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Richard · Jul 17, 2005

( With it that far under the overhang does it really need flashing? It doesn't look like it from the photo. )

Tony, I agree with the base sentiment. I told the wife that if that part of the house EVER saw water on the wall that high up, it means the rain is going horizontally /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Also, the storms we typically get come from the OTHER side of the house and not (typically) on this side.

Be all that as it may, there is ALSO about a 1" gap between the nearest joist and that wall, allowing a smaller say 1/4" gap between the plywood & the wall. I'd think that if any water got there it'd just run off the gap.

None the less, I've always tried to do it right & not cut corners so even if it's over done, I'll try to put the flashing.

Farwell · Jul 17, 2005

Richard,
I see them in roofing instruction books usually around chimneys, over lapped pieces of angled metal. I agree with the wife as well. Never thought about them in your case until the photo. Good luck.

johnday · Jul 17, 2005

Richard; The flat pieces you're looking for, we call flash cards around here. Those are what I was telling you about in your other thread. Step flashing is the proper term. The idea of the 1X board to cover them is an excellent idea. Just make sure to back prime and caulk the snot out of it. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

fire72 · Jul 17, 2005

As others have mentioned, step flashing is the right way to do it. However, you're looking at a lot of work to go back and start over at this point. I'll agree with the 1x trim board, back primed and caulked VERY well. Don't forget to bevel the top edge to avoid giving water a place to lay against the house.

EddieWalker · Jul 17, 2005

Richard,

Looks like your making progress. I agree, you went a little overboard and used the biggest flashing you could find. 2 inch proabably would have been fine for your application.

Since it's already done, and the size of it will work, why not just cover it with a piece of cedar or redwood? Even a 1X4 Preasure Treated board will cover it. Then just stain or paint the board to match your logs.

Eddie

hitekcountry · Jul 17, 2005

Richard

 My wife is gonna love you 

That’s nice, but tell her that my contribution and others was the end result of her husbands willingness to search far and wide and even to the ends of the earth to please his lovely wife.

Hay they love that crap./forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Fred

2nstonge · Jul 17, 2005

Copper flashing looks nice and it wouldn't cost much for a short run like that. It'll be nice and shiny when you install it and then gets a nice patina that would look good with your house. Copper step flashing works good or try a sheet metal shop, one local to me specializes in flashing and trim work for just a few bucks more than the material cost.

-Norm

beenthere · Jul 18, 2005

As I said before, I wouldn't put flashing there. I'd leave that roof back away from the house 'timbers' and treat the edge just like the outside exposed (opposite) edge. Leave a 1-2" gap between the roof and the house, at least on the slope part. The upper end probably different.
What little water that gets there can easily run down the 'timber' siding and dry off.

But, that flashing is 'not good', and agree with wifey. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wish you luck.